tauzero

Yes - if the jack socket is a skeleton type and you've got a 2-band EQ so the jack socket will be sitting on the same shielding, the shielding should be grounded by the jack socket. If you've got a 3-band EQ with the jack socket in the side then you'd need to ground the shielding by connecting a pot body to ground. It would be worth checking that everything is properly grounded by going over it with a multimeter afterwards.

It could have been worse. Imagine what effect a cut on your thumb would have had on your typing.

I detect the hand of the master luthier, and one of his fat finger specials.

Are the pots on a shielded surface? If so, the bodies are already grounded through the shielding, assuming that there is either one pot body connected to ground or the jack socket ground connects to the shielding. If you then connect the pots together, you could create ground loops, explained in more detail here: https://www.fralinpickups.com/2018/11/12/understanding-guitar-grounding/

Get a long velcro cable tie and use it to hold the bug on your strap?

Two 1x8s and a 2x8 for playing Wembley stadium?

Because there is a reactionary lobby in the UK, and old f*ckers refuse to move to the metric system because they're morons who hate change, instead insisting that young people brought up in the metric system use the stupid ludicrous primitive imperial system instead. We've got as far as degrees Celcius and selling food and petrol in grams and litres, but we have such oddities as the jack length in indoor bowls being given in metres but bowl distances from the jack being given in feet and inches, and petrol being sold in litres to enable us to drive along roads measured in miles at speeds measured in miles per hour. And if R*f*rm should by some dreadful mischance win the next election, expect this all to go backwards, the metric system to be unravelled, and currency to go back to LSD (which is what we may have to take to try and escape the dreadful reality). As you can tell, I don't have any strong feelings on the subject.

I prefer the "traditional" woven look.

Same here. Especially if you're recording in the control room (or at home) with a lot of electronic gear around you.

Isn't it a velcro wrap around a two-part handle? Less convenient than a one piece handle which my older version of the case has, although it does mean that the handle cradles the case rather than the case hanging from the handle. Not an issue with the light headless basses and headed guitars I carry in it, but possibly an issue with a Les Paul.

If you were prepared to overlook pedantry, you could have celebrated twice. Like I did.

Someone on a newsgroup I'm on has been using Claude Code to diagnose issues in code, as well as generating code.

You mean the way that we have a look for a program that does something very similar to what we want to do, copy it, and hack it about a bit until it does what we want?

Does he mean "use a time amp! = Essential!" or "use a time amp != Essential!" as the two have opposite meanings[1] and you need to be sure the space is in the right place, which, given his failure to write "your" instead of "you're", seems only about 50% likely. And are time amps going to succeed tonewoods as the next big debating point? Can you get timewoods? [1] They do to a programmer anyway

It does mean that you're not stuck with a single baked-in amp and cab sound, you can use different ones by using NAM/IR or other modelling.

Nonsense, it's the tonewood neck, stainless frets, and the tonemetal skeleton of the guitar body. And the toneair between the tonemagnet tailpiece and the tonemagnet "bridge".

Had a pretty full card tonight. Postponed from a couple of weeks ago as the organiser was unwell, there was a fairly small number of performers and as that included one drummer and one bass player, we were quite in demand - plus me playing guitar for Mrs Zero for four songs, and then we got called back for another couple later. We have another open mic night with the same organisers tomorrow night too.

I had come to that conclusion myself - with the added thought that I could drill a couple of the speaker mounting holes to hold the batten.

And a complete balls up today. In my anxiety to not make the speaker hole too big, I've used a router and circle thingie and managed to make the hole too small. As this means I no longer have a centre to work around, it looks like I'm going have to resort to what I'd been avoiding, using a jigsaw instead. Bollocks.

And back to my cab (maybe I should start a different thread). A little bit of action as I glued in the back and tried to round the edges, forgetting which side the workpiece should have been on, so they're a bit messy. I shall try and tidy up a bit tomorrow. Also put a brace in, far enough down so it won't foul the speaker. My quest to get my 110 back into service after the poxy Made in USA Eminence driver blew up has been a little less fruitful, I didn't do a great job of cutting out the speaker hole in the baffle in the first place, and had to bodge the fixings, and the replacement speaker hasn't got holes in quite the same places so I either have to drill new holes and redo my bodges or graft in a new section of baffle (removing the old baffle is impractical).

There's also the M-Vave Blackbox/ANNBlackbox or Lekato ME-01. I've just got one which I've started describing in

I've had a bit of a play, after updating the firmware and PC and Android software to the latest. Nice solid piece of kit. One conventional pot as master volume, one rotary transducer to set parameter values, with a click to select. There are two Bluetooth channels, one full Bluetooth and the other Bluetooth BLE, one for control and the other for audio interface. Limited effects - there's a chain of up to six, which, just like the old days, are one of each type. However, they can be reordered if required 1) FX Noise gate Boost Compressor AI Gate MS - I have no idea what this is, it's a recent addition that's not in the manual 2) AMP 1-15 for guitar 16-20 for bass (the models are AgDb750, ApSVT, PJBuddy, DgXu, MarkLm - four of them seem obvious, I assume the Dg one is DarkGlass but not sure what Xu signifies) Same controls for all: Gain, Level, Bass, Mid, Treble 3) MOD Chorus Phaser Tremolo Flanger Vibrato Univibe (combines chorus and phaser) 4) DLY Analog Ducking dTape (I want to have a play with this as it emulates tape saturation, my favourite bass distortion) Dual Lofi 5) REV Room Hall Swell Spring Shimmer Cloud 6) CAB 1-15 for guitar 16-20 for bass (models Agula410, AgSVT410, DgDG212N, MbSway210, Tace412) Same controls for all - Level, Lowcut, Highcut There's also a tuner which can be put in either Mute or Bypass mode, and the reference can be changed from 440Hz. It responds quickly and is easy to use and accurate (I put it in series with my Zoom MS-70CDR+ and it was as responsive and easy to use, and very visible). The Android software is easy to use too. It also allows you to load cab IRs and AMx files (AM2, AM3, and AM4 AFAIK) which are equivalent to NAM files - NAM files can be converted to them. That's something for me to try to see if I can get an octaver and a pitch shift emulated.

Is it your clothing or footwear causing static build up? Try taking your clothes and shoes off and playing. NB: not in the rehearsal room, or with the curtains open.

DPD managed to lose a Warwick that was heading for me. Got as far as their depot over the other side of Birmingham to me, then it was supposed to be loaded on a van, then it wasn't delivered, then it was supposed to be loaded on a van but wasn't. This continued for a few days until I contacted them, they managed to track it down somewhere in the warehouse, and I went in and picked it up myself because they were obviously too incompetent to manage to get it 30 miles along the M5/M6/M42 after it had got there from (IIRC) Italy.