tauzero

Connector plate hole cut out - I cut it a bit undersize then chamfered the edge, and I may well do the same thing for the speaker hole. Port hole also cut. Router jig ordered to cut circular hole. Battens applied to sides. Due to a dose of flu, I've called a short halt because bouts of dizziness and power tools don't mix. I have a feeling that I may need to sand down the sides of the front and rear panels as they're a tiny bit short and a tiny bit fat.

Connect the two 1+ together and the two 1- together. Connect the 1+ to the +/red of the speaker and 1- to the -/black. And I use thin neoprene draught proofing strip. Unfortunately I've bought both 1mm thick and 3mm thick so I don't know which one I used on my previous builds, but it was 10mm wide.

AIUI the electrons only travel a short way, then knock an electron out of the atom they're joining, which then moves on in its turn. So there isn't a huge migration of electrons into and out of the wire. The cells in our body are a bit different, as it's actually cells replicating and old cells dying that causes the renewal. Given how small electrons are, it's more likely that it's repeated thermal expansion and contraction, plus vibration, that eventually causes a screw to loosen. And of course there's always the chance that whoever did it up didn't do it up tightly enough.

Have a look in Repairs and Technical -

That shows what I was saying about the routing - it's just a massive trench, unlike the SUB Ray5 which has a far neater rout for the control section.

That's what I'm doing - looking closely at the photos which should show whether it's genuine (the photos on the fake one show what you're getting but I was just going off the auction title, not realising there were fakes going around).

I can manage quite a lot from watching the guitarist's hands. It's even better when they have chord charts as I can sight read those (although when there's a capo involved it gets trickier).

I bought a couple of what were supposedly Hercules GSP38WB Plus wall hangers off Ebay - they were slightly cheaper than buying off Amazon and I'm not putting money into Jeff Bezos's insatiable pockets. However, when they arrived, they turned out to be Chinese copies [1] called Galux GH-110W. Very similar to the Hercules ones but I don't know how trustworthy they are. As the Aliexpress listing for them says they're "zinc alloy", I feel quite disinclined to hang anything heavy or valuable from them. [1] I'm aware that the Hercules ones themselves are probably made in China

Guy Pratt. John Taylor.

It works well within the context of U2, but would you describe him as a virtuoso?

https://www.skygroup.sky/en-gb/article/sky-arts-turns-up-the-groove-with-new-three-part-documentary-greatest-basslines-airing-28-november "Peter Hook (Joy Division, New Order), Nate Mendel (Foo Fighters) and Melissa Auf der Maur (Hole, The Smashing Pumpkins). "Each musician authors their own episode, deconstructing the iconic basslines that defined their careers while revealing the stories behind the strings. They also explore the grooves that inspired them, sharing the basslines that first turned them onto the instrument and shaped their playing." Iconic basslines? "Joining them is a stellar supporting cast, including Glen Matlock (Sex Pistols), Mani (The Stone Roses), Gail Ann Dorsey (David Bowie), Geezer Butler (Black Sabbath), Deego (Fontaines D.C.), Victoria De Angelis (Måneskin), Guy Pratt (Pink Floyd/Madonna), Krist Novoselic (Nirvana), Adam Clayton (U2), Adrian Younge (Wu-Tang Clan, Kendrick Lamar) and Alex James (Blur), who bring their own stories, insights and exclusive performances to the series." While I like Foo Fighters, U2, and Nirvana, pounding out root notes doesn't seem particularly stellar or iconic.

I've got the Lekato WS-90 and the M-Vave WP-5G. Both work well, and I'm pretty sure they're identical - I have connected the transmitter of one to the receiver of the other successfully.

There's a program to measure the latency with the output connected to the input. I'll get round to doing that eventually, when I've finished building the 8" cab and recovered from a nasty cold. I'm very good at procrastination.

Is there any reason for going for a combo rather than separates?

OLP Tony Levin - swapped for a 4-string that cost me £75 and £50 cash, and needed a truss rod adjuster wheel fitting (another tenner). No upgrades yet.

Squier Jazz Vintage Modified Modified. Apart from the Aguilar pickup, V/B/T controls, and pretty control plate, and the neat defret job, it's just the same as any other Squier Jazz. No tear-out, the slight wiggliness on the lines is from the fret tangs.

Can it be used for metal?

There is one improvement that could be made. Just make the pins retractable so they swivel flat when the plug is extracted, and with a button on the top to swivel them into place for insertion. This removes the issue of stepping on three vicious pins when in bare feet causing pain, or in shoes causing damage to the plug.

Lovely. Almost makes me want a painted bass.

Porthole is no problem (holesaw), also the control plate (jigsaw). I'm weighing up how best to do the speaker cut out, I also have a palm router (and a plunge router although I'm not sure about the chuck on it).

48 tooth fine cut - https://www.screwfix.com/p/trend-wood-chipboard-mdf-circular-saw-blade-184mm-x-16mm-48t/826af We had a few hours of dryness. I'm sure it'll be back to wet soon.

The point of the PiPedal is to work as an effects pedal. I'm not sure whether there's a way to intercept the digital output of the PiPedal, I haven't been into that yet.

Battens already cut to length and drilled. My circular saw proved capable of cutting a triple layer sandwich (once I set the cut height right). I used a different cutting pattern as I was cutting a maximum of 610mm - first a cut across at 300mm, then a second and third at 376mm. After that, I stacked the three pieces and cut at 276mm twice, so a total of five cuts. First, I made the sled - I'd glued and screwed a length of batten across the panel, and just cut across using that as a guide. Then I clamped up for the first cut, and found that when I'd just nipped up the fixing bolt for the blade that my definition of nipped up and the instructions definition of nipped up are different. Once rectified, off we went. The first cut is the shallowest. After that first cut, I was able to use the piece I'd just cut off to rest the other side of the circular saw base on. Another cut the same and then I stacked the wood. And at last got to the final cut. I still have to cut out holes in the front and rear.

My circular saw proved capable of cutting a triple layer sandwich (once I set the cut height right). I used a different cutting pattern as I was cutting a maximum of 610mm - first a cut across at 300mm, then a second and third at 376mm. After that, I stacked the three pieces and cut at 276mm twice, so a total of five cuts. First, I made the sled - I'd glued and screwed a length of batten across the panel, and just cut across using that as a guide. Then I clamped up for the first cut, and found that when I'd just nipped up the fixing bolt for the blade that my definition of nipped up and the instructions definition of nipped up are different. Once rectified, off we went. The first cut is the shallowest. After that first cut, I was able to use the piece I'd just cut off to rest the other side of the circular saw base on. Another cut the same and then I stacked the wood. And at last got to the final cut. I still have to cut out holes in the front and rear.

Admittedly they're a bit of a wild claim, but let me reassure you that when the guitarist f*cks his volume setting up and you've neglected to put a limiter on the mixer, the result is mind-buggeringly loud.