tauzero

I've recently bought one. Not used at a gig yet though. Something that doesn't seem to have been mentioned yet is relative practicality of various wirelesses for standalone or pedalboard use. The Line 6 G30/G50, the Smoothhound, and the Harley Benton all have receivers powered from external PSUs which makes them handy for pedal boards where you don't have to take the receiver off the board or furtle around with USB cables to charge it. The double bugs like the Lekato are very handy for standalone applications because you don't have to connect a PSU to the receiver, just plug it into the amp or whatever minimal effects you're using.

Looks like I'm the poor relation with a mere XR12, which was all I thought I'd need (mind you, I think it's still all I need as things stand). The software has been a bit of a steep learning curve - I'm going to try the mixingstation app to see if that's simpler.

He could have Jools Holland in as a guest for that one.

So every one of his marketing emails contains a photo of himself?

That's probably it, it's awaiting my tender ministrations at the moment.

Let's face it, for many of us on BC 3.5 years represents a considerable proportion of the remainder of our allotted span. The youth of today may desire instant gratification but it's us old ones who genuinely need it.

Of course, it's not just the bass that should have both form and function.

I've just managed to solder up a 30cm jack to jack lead and finish up with there being a resistance of 7k between tip and sleeve, so you need to revise your estimate of my soldering ability downwards.

On second thoughts - over 450 solder joints. I've got a better chance of being the next man to set foot on the Moon than make 450 faultless solder joints.

I'm feeling tempted by the Xenotron Modulation Machine, which is even more ambitious than the L4.

Sub Zero seems to manage it every other word. Thus far, I think he's avoided using it to customers of the bank for which he handles calls.

Talkbass has got a DOI thread?

Schalltechnik VONG-Filterung TC Spectracomp EHX POG2 TC Corona chorus in that order. I have the first two and I fancy a POG2 but can't justify the outlay for a plaything, but since @Smanth is buying... HPF/LPF first to get rid of unwanted frequencies, compressor after that to help the octaver tracking, and chorus at the end as trying to run an octaver on a chorussed signal is asking for trouble.

I don't think mods would be able to move threads to Talkbass 😁

Are you sure it's the pickups that should be changed and not the preamp? There's a Schecter Owner's Club thread in the Other Place (in fact, at least three of them) so potentially more information available there.

The love child of Westfield and East Coast?

Scott's Body Lotion - a new product to give you that fresh-off-stage drenched with sweat aroma that all the girls/boys* love. Applicator glove optional. *Delete according to preference

Yes, my Warwick truss rods are left to tighten. At least my 1987 and 1988 Thumbs are, can't remember which my 2000 is and I haven't had to adjust the Corvette, nor did I have to adjust the Buzzard. Evidently Warwick have changed it between 1988 (maybe 2000) and 2013.

My priorities are generally the same as @BigRedX - generally I'm attracted to unusual but attractive basses, although I do have an Ibanez SRF705 which I find somewhat insipid styling wise but does have rather good fretless sounds, and a Variax 705 which follows Fender styling cues but, well, it's a Variax. The bass must be playable (for me, slim and shallow neck, not too concerned about string spacing). I have upgraded pickups and/or preamps on some basses when I've decided that the sound isn't good enough (generally when it's too thin).

I find the most interesting thing is the proof that a 65 year old Fender doesn't have to look as if someone's used it to hammer in tent pegs.

That's useless. It's only got three strings.

Isn't charging e-bikes a significant cause of fires?

I recently put an OBP2-SK into the handmade 6-string headless - I advise connecting as much as possible up before putting everything into the control cavity. I used some heatshrink to hold the six wires going to the bass/treble stacked pot together - you may find the same with the two sets of three wires running to the separate bass and treble pots.

I generally use the Stagg (or related) cheap tripod stands when I use one, the ones with a pivoting bar to hold the neck rather than a big rubber band. https://staggmusic.com/en/products/view/SGA100BK-tripod-guitar-stand/

Sorry, I really shouldn't go doing a TimR. 😁