tauzero

It's the Mk 1 - https://support.akaipro.com/en/support/solutions/articles/69000824384-akai-pro-lpk25-mk2-frequently-asked-questions For someone like me who can just about play a few chords on a keyboard, it's fine.

I found exactly the same with the HX Stomp - with cab sims, chorus was inaudible, without them it was clear.

The most recent excessively sensitive band member was about four years ago, and was the drummer. The guitarist/vocalist was doing a post-gig critique at the next rehearsal, and mentioned the speed of one of the songs (he'd also mentioned where he'd c0cked up and where I had), at which the drummer took umbrage, packed up, and departed. The last few bands I've been in haven't had any sensitive souls, which is just as well, as my social skills are extremely lacking and I'll point out mistakes (and confess to my own).

Let's Stick Together by Bryan Ferry: "You know we made a vow not to clean one another's leathers"

I bought an electroacoustic classical guitar and a fretless 5-string electroacoustic bass. Can't find any fault with them.

I'm tempted to put a cab together that's intermediate between the 6" micro cab and the BC 112 Mk3. I was thinking of the 8" cab, but I realised I've got a Deltalite II 2510 upstairs and I wondered about building a 1x10 tweeterless cab with not dissimilar dimensions to the 8" cab, using the Deltalite and the 68mm pipe I have knocking about in the shed after the 6" cab build. I plugged the Deltalite parameters into WinISD (found on TB, all the others fail internal consistency) and a 25l box tuned to 50Hz with a 12.4 cm long port looks as if it would work. Would this be a sensible path to pursue? @Phil Starr, @stevie?

You'll also see it described as stereo jack to XLR. Tip-ring-sleeve jack, with (I think) tip to +, ring to -, sleeve to common/ground. Allows you to use balanced cables with jack connectors.

It might be an idea to add https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/481042-new-basschat-8cab-design/ to the original topic.

It was just a drop, no excess, to make sure the thread didn't get stuck. All done now, grille on, and a test with the Puma 900 powering it went well.

I was corrected on this a while ago. You don't inhale the lead, but if you handle food after playing with solder you can transfer lead to the food and ingest it. Ditto having a cigarette IIRC.

Guitarguitar do a wide selection of bags - might be worth visiting them if you have a branch near you.

How long does it take to set up compared to a normal mic stand?

I'm not sure if I pasted in the wrong thing or was posting drunk (again). This seems a more likely candidate: https://reverb.com/item/17354303-van-dyke-harms-extra-thick-stainless-steel-neck-plate-with-screws-fits-fender-style-4-bolt-guitars

I have a spare Akai LPK25 which I could very easily be tempted to let go of for not many beer tokens at all, if you find that it would suit your needs.

No, it shows it's centre negative. 12V 3.0A. Attaching a centre positive PSU will let out the magic smoke. The + going to the encircling, er, circle is the outer, the - going to the inner pin is the inner. Hence centre negative. The HB Iso-1 I have has a similar but different power supply. The plug will be a 5.5mm outer, but it could be either a 2.5mm or 2.1mm inner - on mine it's a 2.1 inner, I expect it to be the same on yours. There's a few sellers on Ebay who sell a vast array of power supplies. Try contacting https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/effectspedalpowersupplies and see if he can do you a 12V 3A 5.5/2.1 centre negative power supply.

From the Behringer website: "and the built-in stereo crossover makes this subwoofer ideally suited for use with any of our active 2-way loudspeakers".

That might just be the way he's sitting.

Is that Paul Whitehouse on guitar?

"Unresponsive" may be the best description. Mrs Zero keeps telling me I should smile more.

You don't ask, you don't get... You've got the Monza (fastest F1 circuit), Monaco (slowest F1 circuit), and Silverstone (oldest F1 circuit), so logically it should be the newest F1 circuit. Although that's Las Vegas, it's a temporary circuit, as is Miami, so it's Losail or Jeddah, or if they're excluded for human rights reasons, Algarve.

I've had the occasional look over the last few years but haven't seen anything. Maybe they've balanced supply and demand so they don't need to flog off the overstock dead cheap any more.

I suspect you'll need XLR-XLR leads and a pair of active tops.

It would have to be a very custom version to use it in the One10. Two inches smaller diameter for a start. I had a One10. Sold it as it sounded rather rough at the volume I was using it, which wasn't full-on rock band loud by any stretch of the imagination, the "drummer" was playing a very lightly miced up cajon and unmiced bongoes.

I've got the AT Cube 800 - as I haven't got an extension cab, it's putting out a maximum of 500W. As I've go a wireless system, one day I may put the amp in the kitchen and go upstairs and see what it's like at full whack. Very clean and well balanced sound.

Today's method: Go round all the T-nuts which are in place, checking that they thread up properly (one didn't, so I knocked it out) Replace the T-nut with another that I checked would thread from the correct end, using a bolt and penny washer to pull it into place Put epoxy on face of T-nut that goes onto back of baffle Used lightly oiled bolt and penny washer to pull T-nut into place, and left for a little while Put speaker in and didn't c0ck up putting in the bolts this time Just the grille to secure then.