tauzero

You can move the rear strap button to a more central position (on my 1265 it's in line with the A string tuner) which corrects that issue. As well as being easier, you can tune from either above or below a note, rather than having to tune upwards as you have to with conventional tuners.

Just replace all four.

I've got four of the flat LED PAR units which were around £12 each from Aliexpress, and we just put them on the floor pointing up. I do have a PAR bar too, but it's extra hassle and stage room so ICBA to take it out. I'm having a look at DMX control of the PAR cans just so they can do a few interesting things.

I was chatting to a guitarist at an open mic night recently and he'd bought a Chibson and was absolutely delighted with it - he'd replaced the pickups and electronics but didn't say how much of an improvement that was.

It was, however, a genuine Entwistle signature bass, so it has to be counted as a genuine Entwistle signature bass. Not the later paddle-headed ones (of which I had a 5-string), which didn't have neck dive but was heavy and had a big neck profile (still one that I found playable but not brilliant). I've never played the earlier Entwistle signature Warwick but as it's from the mid-90s I'd expect it to have a slimmer neck profile, like my '87 Thumb. Maybe one day I'll get to play one and find out.

That's not relevant to what comes out for MIDI on the GPIO pins. Just checked the specs and the I/O is 5V, so the 220R per leg is right. Good work spotting the Serial/Serial1 issue, that affects other Arduinos too.

I don't know what preamp was in my Iyv headless but the pots seemed to be random and poor quality. I just dumped the whole lot out and put in an Artec SE3 which works well (the pickups are OK). The Iyv basses can only be found on ebay.com - there's a 4-string version https://www.ebay.com/itm/404763623508. Shipped with the neck detached to keep shipping costs down. Fotoflame body, tuners have good and bad points.

And the Warwick Buzzard, up to 1995.

Probably more than the number of posthumous Dimebag guitars before his death.

But Gibson didn't need Jack Casady's signature to have Epiphone produce a replica of the Gibson semi.

Players might not need them, but manufacturers need them to increase sales.

Sooner or later, everyone has to change barrel jack sockets. They're a consumable item.

For a signature bass transcending the artist, the Warwick JD Thumb - JD being John Davis. The progenitor of all Thumbs, AIUI.

PS. Lekato MS-1.

Try in here:

The photo accompanying the interview show that they'd been put in by that point - they do seem to be an afterthought but not that far after.

Strange that he doesn't mention that the short scale neck is an 8-string.

Sir just needs a pillar drill and a couple of clamps. Or, as m'learned friend suggests, epoxy.

Have you considered box section rather than bar?

Picked up on Friday from the Gardiner Houlgate auction house following their guitar sale (along with an Ebow and a Boss CE5). This is the JTV69 with HSS pickups rather than the JTV69S which is SSS. Also came with the Workbench hardware - I already have that but it's not a bad thing to have a spare.

Seems a reasonable candidate to rival the MS-60B+. Set up some presets and switch back and forth between them, or just set it up for a particular sound if you only want to use one. Incidentally, Eric Klein was also very complimentary about the Zoom multistomps in that same TB thread.

He might start playing chess though.

That set me off on a quest to find a signature bass that I would consider owning - surprisingly, I found one, the Kiesel Amos Williams Signature 5-String Headless Bass. Doesn't look like there's any for sale though.

I bought an acrylic light-up 5-string bass from Music Zoo. One LED didn't light up, they sent me a replacement neck (which I have yet to fit). Someone on Talkbass ordered a custom bass from them and it worked out well.

That might change for a fretless as the somewhat aggressive nature of the Nordstrands might not suit fretless as well as the Barts.