tauzero

Shame that Basslab is in Japan, I'd like to try one.

The fact that neither of them can pronounce "Warwick" is another point against.

It looks interesting, though I don't understand why Zoom continue to ignore 70% of the market by only catering for Apple, as they did with the MS-100BT.

I like the Zoom B3n, but haven't tried the B1x or B6 (and I've got enough multiFX at the moment). If you're not bothered about ease of switching effects, the Zoom MS-60B is a single stompbox that can have a chain of effects - easy programming through a PC, fairly easy programming on the unit itself.

Not the wooden one, but I've got an AT800 Cube combo, and I like it for the weight and the sound. Good clarity and I think it's pretty flat response.

FTFY.

I just specified dimensions. The port hole isn't so bad, hole saws of that diameter are readily available, but in hindsight I'm sure I could have done a better job on the speaker cut-out.

That included the wood. B&Q stores do free cutting for five cuts, then 50p/cut afterwards, not sure if that's all of them and you'd need to inspect the available wood to get the best: https://www.diy.com/services/timber-cutting As for the build:

There's a couple missing, I think. Laney DP150 and Ohm 1x15 cab GK 200MB (the combo predecessor to the MB150) TE 4x10 combo (serious mistake, weighed as much as my car) Another Laney DP150 and home-made 2x10 TE AH250 head with the home-made 2x10 Tech Soundsystems 4x10 EA iAmp 500 EA iAmp 800 Ashdown Superfly Ashdown Superduperfly Tecamp Puma 900 Barefaced Big Baby 2 GR Bass AT800 Cube combo Still have the last two, and a BC micro cab, plus a BC 112 still under construction.

Because I'm not great at woodwork, I went to https://www.woodsheets.com/ and got everything cut to size for the 1x6, which cost about £30 with postage. That just leaves the issue of cutting out a round hole, which I didn't do entirely successfully but it was good enough.

Truss rod cover is a little askew. No logo on the headstock - is it a decal rather than an inlay?

The thing about USB-C is that it can go up to 20V using a little controller - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193527265113

Already here:

Another vote for the Tecamp Puma 900 here. I've now got a GR Bass AT800 combo so the Puma is probably redundant, but I've hung on to it rather than selling it as it may be used again some day.

If the body is heavy, making it headless wouldn't affect the balance as most of the weight is between the strap pegs. I've encountered plenty of neck-divy basses but never a body-divy one.

This is just experimental for now, to keep me off the streets. Zoom B3n, HX Stomp, MOD Dwarf - several preamps but they are more pre than amp, so the signal level would probably be too low just using those. A simple amplifier with a gain of 10 or so should do the job if necessary. Not a lot, I would think. When I've dug a J-J speaker lead out, I'll see what a Hotone 5W amp sounds like through it. That's the idea. Everything is subject to change. USB-C, either from a power pack or a mains adaptor, preferably variable voltage.

Well, that has all the fretted bases covered, now you just need a matching set of fretlesses. Lovely wood on all of those.

Natural

Just strip all that horrible black paint off it, go for natural wood with black (or maybe gold) hardware.

One question for @Phil Starr (or any other cab experts) - I'm thinking of making this a combo with a tiny 30W amp module. Would a jack socket with a hole in it like they all have be a significant problem?

If an Ibanez SRF705 should pop up, that would be well worth going for.

I filled the holes, touched the front panel back up, and put more strip on the connector plate to seal that too. All is now well. All sounding good. Better than it looks, anyway.

Good point. I shall work myself up into an appropriate frame of mind soon.

Thanks, I'm initially going to do some basic checks - IC supply voltages, ground offset from supply, see if there's signals on the + and - inputs on the op-amps and on the outputs.