tauzero

It's the Fane Sovereign 6-100 6" driver. The cab is @Phil Starr's design:

If the baud rate is controlling the MIDI port baud rate, it's wrong. Needs to be 31250.

Looks like the website has been archived but not the transcriptions. https://web.archive.org/web/20220720124206/https://bilbosbassbites.co.uk/

Is his website on the Wayback Machine at https://archive.org/? Don't know what the URL was of his site otherwise I'd have checked myself.

He hasn't mentioned Noah Chimpsky yet.

You don't have a factual argument, you have an opinion.

No it isn't. You are completely and utterly wrong. Slim necked headless active basses with at least five strings are the only way to go and anything else is rubbish. I say so so it must be true.

Covering first. Ages ago, I got a sheet of carbon fibre look stick-on stuff which I was going to use for some purpose on a bike - the purpose is long-forgotten but the fabric was just the right size to wrap the cab, so that is now in progress. It's not very sticky so I'm using Gorilla glue to stick it on. I started by making cuts in the fabric to let me fold it into the top back and glued it into place, giving me an anchor point. The next stage - the top: The second of the two sides: Wrapped round and doing the bottom - I decided just to overlap it, it's quite thin and the joint won't show: The tricky bit - wrapping the edges round at the back: I still have two front edges and all four rear edges to do, then I need to trim the rear panel very slightly to fit (sanding it down to size should do) and paint it. Front panel has already been painted black. Incidentally, the slightly misplaced batten was cater for by getting some iron-on edging, narrowing it down a little, and ironing it onto the batten. It's all going to get some 3mm thick rubber foam round the edge anyway which should seal it up nicely. I must say, retirement has been a great help. I've made more progress in six days than I did in the previous six months.

Schaller 3D bridges will cover a wide range of spacing. https://schaller.info/en/bridges/338/3d-5?c=52

I use them on everything.

I've been idly toying with the idea of a separates board, and the Rowin LT 901 gets good reviews. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185676909351

Just checked and the battery on mine is dead, after never having plugged it in and not leaving the tuner on. Wonder if it's feasible to put a stereo jack in and switch the battery (which would also mean that if the XLR socket is to be used, you'd have to put a plug in the jack).

Thinking about it, the fact that there's no need to plug in a jack in order to use the tuner implies that there's either a switch on the tuner that also switches the power on and off, or the preamp is permanently on and the tuner is just switched on and off.

Don't know - it's in my office, aka bedroom 4, which I haven't spent any time in since retiring at the end of 2022. Haven't plugged it in yet anyway.

I only play on slim shallow necks, so obviously they're faster for me. But enough people must like thick clunky necks that Warwick churned them out for decades, and Spector still do.

Joseph Gordon-Levitt?

I'm hoping that the pickup holes are the right size for at least one of the sets of pickups I've got knocking around. Not sure if I have a preamp, I thought I had but couldn't lay my hands on it.

Oh well, that's another project on my pile...

The face just to the right of the pickup reminds me of a horror movie - well, it reminds me of Scary Movie which was a spoof on several horror movies.

Killer - Adamski/Seal With or without you - U2 Waterfront - Simple Minds

It's marginal but needs the strings to be aligned correctly to the pickup. Just slightly out and they'll go off the pickup. So the not-quite-wide-enough pickup has helped to highlight the fault with the string/bridge/neck alignment.

Truss rod adjustment by taking the neck off is a dreadful idea - I don't know why Fender kept it going into the 70s, let alone to the present day. If they were desperate to have the adjustment at the heel, they could have done it with a wheel with holes in, like they have on another model just to prove it can be done.

He quite liked one of the basses that I've got - in fact, he suggested the mod that the owner before the owner before me had done to it, and liked it more then.

The E string is also very close to the edge of the fretboard, the G string isn't. Putting the E string into the right place would bring it over the pickup, so it's either the bridge in the wrong place or the neck is on the wonk.

Very art deco. If the 30s had had electric guitars, this would have been one of them. The exact reverse of being ahead of its time.