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Everything posted by tauzero
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I didn't say they'd got a commitment to an artist but that someone buying a CD has to decide which to buy, which isn't quite the same thing. There's no metric, everybody who decides to book you or come to one of your gigs or buy your CD or sign you up to a record label has judged the competition for themselves and decided you are one of the winners.
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Your pointer is on the wrong side of the knob. If it points vertically up at the mid-point, clockwise goes P-wards and anti-clockwise goes J-wards. If it points down, you'll get what you see.
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I would expect clockwise to put more P pickup through - if it had a pointer knob with the pointer towards you, you'd see the pointer pointing more at the P pickup as you turn the knob clockwise.
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I know the feeling - I've tried Spectors a few times (four and five strings) but never got on with the neck. At least Spector necks seem fairly consistent over the years, Warwicks have had several different neck profiles in the last four decades.
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If there are any other bands who could play the gigs that you do, you have competed with them to get those gigs. You may not view it that way, but it's what's happened.
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Doesn't the fact loads of young kids on YT are nailing it...
tauzero replied to Barking Spiders's topic in General Discussion
The great Protestant movement of the 16th century was led by those who wanted the Bible written in tab. -
Presumably Boss also sold power supplies that were centre negative, which nobody else did for a while - that would have helped their profits. OTOH, it is more expensive to use a centre-negative jack in a pedal, because you have to insulate the jack from the pedal body, so I'm surprised the bean-counters didn't point that out.
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Everything got rather put on one side for a while but I've removed the screws, filled the holes, and I've just been sanding everything down and rounding the corners over somewhat. I have just bought a palm router (for anyone who's looking for one, the highly recommended Makita is available from Alan Wadkins for £60 plus postage - https://www.alanwadkinstoolstore.co.uk/power-tools-c17/routers-c22/makita-rt0700cx4-router-trimmer-110v-or-240v-p24171) but I want to practice with it before destroying any painstakingly constructed object so the rest of the rounding will also be by hand. A bit of sanding of filler required round the battens on the back too.
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Out looking for gigs? Competition - you and many other bands are competing for the chance to gig somewhere. Playing a gig? Competition for at least two reasons - competing with the bands that played last week and will play next week so you'll get more gigs there, and competing with any other attractions that night (including people staying at home to watch Jools Holland). Doing a recording to sell? Competition - people don't have unlimited resources so they've got to decide which CDs or MP3s they want to buy. Doing a recording to send off as a demo? Competition - lots of other bands are too.
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Just planning the restring for my 4-string Thumbs: I think that's quite pleasing.
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And it's gone, so someone got a good buy. Nice basses - the neck on the 5-string is a bit on the chunky side but the 4-string is fine. I like the Hohner headlesses enough to have a B2AV as a backup bass - takes up very little room, doesn't need a stand, makes a pretty good noise and reasonably playable.
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How twisted is the neck? The headstock looks as if it's at 90 degrees to the camera, the body doesn't.
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At this point you will be advised to get a Zoom MS-60B and get rid of at least two pedals.
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Fun Thread , Have You Ever Been Asked For Your Autograph ?
tauzero replied to Bluewine's topic in General Discussion
SMIDSY. I nearly managed to get that Jayne Middlemiss on the back of my bike. -
If it's right at the front, it means it's getting rid of the subsonics before they hit the compressor and potentially push it into compressing when it shouldn't. For effects further down the chain, it prevents them getting driven into clipping by the subsonics.
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And also swap the compressor out for the MS60B, so you've got two free slots.
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New 5er in the pipeline...delivery scheduled for 25th
tauzero replied to TheGreek's topic in Bass Guitars
So he set the bar low then. 😁😁 -
Looking at their Ebay store, they have one with more advanced Guyker-like tuners (for three times the price), but most of them have the same setup as mine has. A couple have more sophisticated bridges, one with a BBOT, another with individual bridge pieces. It looks quite a feasible upgrade but it all seems to work OK as it is. The extra leverage of the allen key and the fact that (like most headlesses) it's a screw thread rather than a worm gear means that it is the easiest and most accurate tuning of any bass, headed or headless, that I've used.
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Tuning systems for headless basses have cropped up in several topics, so I thought I'd disclose what the Fingy uses. Whipping the wooden cover off reveals this: The cap screws go through washers and a flat load-spreading plate, through the body, and into threaded holes in brass blocks sitting in routed grooves. The strings pass through holes in the brass blocks and the ball ends anchor them. Turning the cap screws with the provided allen key moves the brass blocks up and down the screw, using the string tension to keep everything in place. I haven't yet changed a string (haven't made as much use of it as I should, in fact), so I'm not sure if the ends of the cap screws are butted up to the ends of the slots or whether there are holes at the ends of the slots to stop them moving around. The bridge is a very simple non-adjustable one which could be replaced by something like the bridge part of the Warwick 2-piece bridge if that was really necessary. Apart from the trivial annoyance of inserting the allen key, tuning is an absolute delight - the allen key makes it easy to turn and get the tuning spot on.
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As you don't have a zero fret, have you got an edge to the string holes in the string holder so that the string passes over a defined end point, rather than the end point being where the clamp screw contacts it?
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I've got both - saw a Duo for sale on Ebay a while back and got it, then more recently picked up the Dwarf from Thomann as B-stock but didn't get rid of the Duo.
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The ME50B won't make a difference as the output is at the same level as the input - about 150mV peak to peak signal, whereas the line in is expecting 1V peak to peak. How are you proposing to drive the monitors when using them as monitors?
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The duo that I was 50% of supported the Strawbs sometime in the 80s, and I had the opportunity to tell Dave Cousins what a great influence he'd been on my songwriting. I don't know if he would have regarded that as a compliment, of course. I also had a gig programme signed by Gary Glitter and Gerry Shephard as they left the New Street Odeon. I have no idea what happened to that.