tauzero

No, decided I'd got enough half-finished projects and fretless 5s.

My own fairly pointy instrument: Warwick 5-string Buzzard (the headstock is the normal Warwick paddle). Now gone but it was good fun and balanced well despite that short top horn.

Refin. That would halve the value.

I had a Rosetti Bass 7 - my first bass. From my experience of that, I'd say that the body and the electrics deserve each other.

Most of these are Precisions with a beak though.

I'm just not going to change the strings on mine. Ever. The Ibanez EHB1265MS comes with D'Addario EXL170-5SL on it - £38 from Thomann. The standard length strings are £33. Measuring up the B string on the Ibanez, it's about 37" from the ball end to where the taper is. That seems to be the same distance as ball end to silk on the Elites on a headed Warwick Thumb. So a standard set of Elites may fit on the Ibanez. I'll check it out when I next do a string change on one of the others.

So the battery can be attached at either end of the strip?

The Smooth Hound is fine, but one thing that niggles me is the choice of a centre-positive power supply. Would it really have been so difficult to go centre-negative like every[1] other pedal? [1] Hyperbole, before the pedants[2] charge in [2] Like me

Brian May doesn't play his signature bass. Or his signature guitar either, come to that. U2 have to play sets at least two hours long so Adam Clayton can play all his signature basses.

When they first came out, they were generally referred to as droopy headstocks. If there's no point on the body, it's pointless.

"And if you don't sort out this fret wear issue, it's the garotte for you".

FTFY.

Maybe, but the alternative is 2-strokes.

I've made the comparison between Fender and Harley for many years. Both produce variants on products originally introduced decades before, making occasional forays into new areas which peter out after a while, as their adherents stick rigidly to the antiquated designs rather than embracing any sort of progress.

Most of the bands I've been in have been democracies, though they do tend to have members who will tend to lead and others who will tend to follow. I think I've only been in two bands with self-appointed leaders. No problems with playing what I wanted to play but there was a degree of personal friction with one (who sacked me) and the most recent one I decided I'd had enough of supplying the PA (mutually agreed separation). I prefer the democratic model as long as there aren't any rogue members - with one band, the guitarist simply didn't learn any songs that he didn't particularly fancy doing, even though they'd been agreed. Plus there should be a limited ability to veto a song. I don't really want to play "All Right Now" but the others do, so I simply refuse to play during the verse.

You can get one with an oscilloscope included for fifty quid. https://manuals.plus/fnds/dso-tc2-oscilloscope-transistor-tester-manual

On a headed bass, there is a greater length between the two absolute fixed ends, the bridge/tailpiece and the tuner, as there's a non-sounding length of string between nut and tuner. Assuming two identical strings, the tension on the string for the same scale length and same note will be the same, so headed and headless will be the same tension. In order to fret a string, you have to push it down, which deflects it very slightly so it needs to stretch by a minute amount. That minute amount will be less of a proportion of the length between the fixed ends for a headed bass than a headless. I don't think you'll feel the difference in the real world unless your action is a couple of cm at the 12th fret.

I have headlesses that use DBE and headlesses that use standard strings. I use Elites, 40-125, on almost all my basses, which are almost all 34" scale, and there's no difference in tension.

I always take the transmitter out when putting the bass on its stand. The only issue I have with the edge mounted sockets is when they're locking ones which are a PITA.

OOh, I know this one! All the squares are the same colour, aren't they, and it's just an optical illusion.

Something else to try is to shift everything up five frets and down one string, so you only go below fret 5 if you have to play a note below bottom E.

Sounds absolutely dreadful.

Presumably he doesn't think much of the bridge position as he switches after a few seconds and never goes back to it. Two pickup positions with no ability to blend between them and no incremental change (like the Westone Rail and Gibson Grabber), plus either it has sliding contacts for the pickup (potential for noise) or wires (potential for metal fatigue and breakage).

Looking forward to seeing this assembled.