tauzero

Westone Quantum is a less rare cricket bat headless. I had one years ago, can't remember why I sold it as I'm pretty sure I was still playing 4-strings back then.

Have a look at the start of 06_midi.ino: const int midiSendChannel = 1; // MIDI channel for outbound messages Just change that to whichever channel you want.

I think how F the first of the FRs is will be something that differentiates active bass cabs from active PA speakers, where for extended bass subwoofers would normally be used. Given that there still hasn't been any further word on the natural fibre cabs, I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for further details.

That's next week's project.

It looks like a passive R-C filter network. I'd have to dig out Horowitz and Hill to find out any more though.

Resistors can be 3-band or 4-band. They're normally 3 plus a tolerance band but you can get 4 plus a tolerance band. Might this have caused confusion?

Were the bands on the resistor the wrong colours?

My main gigging bass was a 5-string fretless Sei. My backup bass was a fretted Hohner B2AV. I occasionally swapped to it for a song or two. It is a very portable bass as it's so compact (not as compact as a folding bass).

You could always use one of these then (maybe): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-T100-T120-Primary-Chain-Adjuster-Tool-/391466811760

IIRC, you can't get at vintage P bass truss rod adjusters without taking the neck off, no matter what tool you have.

An F Bass VF-5 PJ. Just because I'd like to see what the neck that Scott Devine thinks is the most comfortable he's ever played is actually like. Change of mind - Bass Lab double necked 5-string headless fretted and fretless.

Just did an image search for "cort b4 schematic" - I use DuckDuckGo but Google should get the same. I think that the list in the top left corners is the list of instruments that it's applicable to.

It seems odd that it's a B250 as that's a linear pot, so not very good for volume control (the sensitivity of the ear has a logarithmic response). Although the schematic for the B4 shows it as a B500: Unless this is one of the revamped B4s (Element?) in which case looking at Bartolini's circuit diagrams might be more useful.

Quite a haul. Congratulations!

Last January, I said I'd make an exception for an Ibanez SRF705, and last March I got one ridiculously cheap, so let's see if history will repeat itself.

I was out in March, after buying an Ibanez SRF705, which was the bass I said I'd make an exception for. Although I also bought an Ibanez EHB1265, and a Batking bass uke, just to make sure my defeat was a proud one.

Everybody should have a 5-string, if only so I can decide whether to buy it or not when the purchaser decides that five strings wasn't for them/Jaco didn't need five strings.

It's obviously the wrong way.

The immaculate brushwork and superb placement of the ashtray can be seen to its full effect in picture 6: It's nice to see that somebody else can match my luthierie skills.

There seems to be one minor issue with me getting one (that's apart from the fact they've got a big backlog, about 3 months): Can you see what it is yet? Ooops, shouldn't quote Rolf Harris.

What about in three and a half years?

The fret one uses depends on which Imperial unit you measure in. For furlongs, it's fret 8, for feet it's fret 12, for pounds it's fret 14, and for ounces fret 16. I would advise avoiding fathoms at fret 6 and shillings at fret 20. Personally, I also use the drop 'em till they buzz then go back up a little bit, after having set up the relief.

The mini-toggle would be a bit loose in the hole, which was why I thought of the rotary. A mini-toggle goes in a 5mm hole, a guitar pot hole is 7mm. You might need a largeish washer to make sure it's snug. Just look for "toggle switch dpdt centre off" on Ebay, there's quite a few - some 3-ways will be centre on so be sure to get the right one.

How about replacing the bass pot with stacked treble/bass and getting a rotary 3-way switch with which you could have all three of the options on the last page of the Bartolini instructions?

I would have thought you'd be able to fit the tuners onto the body if using Guykers - they might overhang a bit though. From front to rear fixing screw hole is 45.5mm.