tauzero

If you're going to leave the headstock on, I think that natural finish looks better than a painted one.

The 70s, starting in 1970 as Hendrix was still alive until later that year, through much prog, glam, punk, and new wave. Plus some classic disco and most of Abba's existence, and Queen and Pink Floyd's best albums.

I think that's right - running a valve amp with no load is very bad for it. ISTR (but I could well be wrong so check with an expert) that you ideally should match impedance but that it's possible to run into a lower impedance than marked, so you could run a 4 ohm load from the 8 ohm output.

Some time ago, I bought a handmade 6-string headless bass off Ebay after somebody mentioned it in the marketplace. It had generic Chinese pickups in it, with two volume controls with pull to switch between serial and parallel coils on each and one rotary switch to select bridge, neck, or both. As someone slightly unkindly remarked, the knobs looked as if they belonged on a cooker rather than a bass. After getting an Ibanez EHB1265 with upgraded Aguilar DCB pickups, and having seen a pair of DCBs the right size for this bass in the marketplace, I decided to upgrade it with the DCBs and an Aguilar OBP2 with stacked bass and treble (just hoping that the OBP2 isn't too overwhelming). This allowed me to keep the three-knob setup. The pickup holes were marginally undersized for the Aguilars so I had to do some filing to get them in. Obviously I didn't want to start drilling other holes in the front so I was rather constrained by the positions of the holes already drilled. This did present a problem as the position of the barrel jack socket would interfere with the bass/treble pot, so I took a different approach. My initial thought was to put the jack socket on a plate mounted on the outside like a Les Paul, but the flat section of the perimeter was too narrow and I didn't want to start carving flat bits out. So instead I got an oval metal jack mounting plate and bent it to match the inside of the control cavity, then enlarged the jack socket hole slightly and mounted the plate on the inside. Next stage was wiring everything up. I wired up the tone control to the OBP-2 (ran the wires for the tone control through some heat shrink to try and keep things neat), then the volume control, and finally wired the blend control, jack socket, and PP3 battery holder in. Initially the volume control didn't work - that was because I'd connected the grey pickup wires to the volume pot body and the black wires to ground, but the two weren't connected. A short bridging wire on the volume pot sorted that out. There was just room for the 9V battery holder - I didn't want to put the battery in loose. Volume is at the top, blend to the left of the battery, OBP2 is nect to the jack socket, the oval plate holding the jack socket is visible, and the stacked bass/treble pot is the other side of the jack socket. As can be seen, there's not a lot of room. The last remaining piece of the puzzle was the rear cover, which I wanted to change to magnetic closing. The control cavity has a very narrow margin which wasn't very satisfactory as the screws that were holding the cover on were barely gripping and they were also really tiny. I took a couple of short lengths of wood and glued neodymium magnets to them, then glued them in position inside the control cavity. Then I glued a matching pair of magnets to the cover, and all was well.

Surely that would depend on which end of the combo he puts on the ground.

Could you use the 4-cable method (page 9 of the manual) with the amp return and send being the mixer input and output? There's a setting in Global Settings | Ins/Outs for Phones monitor - not sure if you could use that to divert the Stomp's Send to the phones, otherwise you could send it to the headphone amp (so you don't get to do away with that). Using that method, the Stomp's output (TRS) can go straight to the mixer using a TRS to XLR lead, so you've got a balanced feed (which you can do anyway with your current setup, losing the BDI21).

One guitarist uses a pedalboard with multiple single effects, going into a Line 6 head and cab, and the other uses a pedalboard which is mainly a Boss multifx (can't remember which one but I think it's the ME-80) and a Darkstar pedalboard amp. His cab is a ludicrously heavy Peavey thing so to avoid having to get it out of the car, he's running the Darkstar into the PA. This has all yet to be tried out, first gig is on Saturday, though we have had a dry run with my PA to make sure it all worked. If I had to switch to guitar, it would be through an HX Stomp into the PA.

I was going to suggest you cut that ugly headstock off the Bongo but then you wouldn't be able to hang it up.

It does make you wonder why people are afraid of AI. If this was Skynet, it would have shot itself down immediately after declaring John Connor world president.

Well, practice makes perfect.

I saw something on the forum about not being able to use it when someone else was in it. Ah, this is it - https://forum.mod.audio/t/try-mod-two-users-at-this-same-pedalboard/9815

He'd have had some on display if he'd just gone on a few Pride marches.

Same here, but with parallel necks.

Ooops, that was chopthebass, not Prosebass.

He moved across the Atlantic IIRC (to Canada, again IIRC). I liked the look of his headlesses.

Meths with red meat, isopropyl with fish and poultry.

Do you realise how tedious you are? It's like a scratched record.

Sounds like a good subject for a Youtube video.

Alcoholics Anonymous.

It was the done thing to make hi-fi speakers as heavy as possible as this apparently increased the highness of the fidelity. I remember a DIY hi-fi speaker in the 70s (in Practical Electronics or Wireless World, I think) which had double-skinned walls. After putting together the base, sides, and front/back, and putting the speakers exactly where you wanted them, the walls were then filled with sand and the top put on.

To paraphrase that nice Mr Orwell, some are more hideous than others.

Something I found a few days ago when I rewired a previously passive bass to active with new pickups - the pickup negative and the pickup ground need to be definitely connected together. I'd got the pickup ground going to ground and the pickup negative soldered to the volume pot body but the two weren't connected, so one end of the volume wiper was floating and the volume control had no effect. Connecting the two sorted that out.

Use a reamping box. Coincidentally I've just built one using the instructions in this video - if you've got the tools, it's dead easy.

Oh good, it's not just me that thinks that the Tele headstock is hideous. Mind you, I also think that the Tele body is hideous.