tauzero

Years ago, I got a bit hot under the collar about an offer, which on reflection I shouldn't have. Not a musical instrument - a motorcycle. Me, vaguely attracted to some other bright shiny thing in the shop: "How much would you give me for this?" Them: "We're not really interested in that" Me: "How much?" Them: "£1000" At which I took umbrage (scrap value of said bike was about £1500), but on reflection I was really ignoring what they kept telling me, that they didn't want it. It did take me many, many months to get to that point of reflection though. I think (going back an awfully long way to the OP) there is an awful lot to consider in terms of a "straight trade". The shop has bought in an item with a certain level of mark-up. There's VAT considerations on this as well. It becomes a lot more complex in terms of profit and loss than "you're selling A for £x, here's B that I'd like £x for". There's a few on here that have actually worked in shops who could give a more informed view than me.

Basses, Ibanezes, Roland synth guitars, red Strat - a little over twice the top estimate. Strats, Teles, Gibsons, Guilds, Jacksons - 20-50 times the top estimate.

And happened again a few minutes ago.

Simples. For the jazz-curious - turn all controls fully clockwise. For anyone using an active bass - there's a little clicky thing halfway round on all but the volume control [1]. Turn all controls with a clicky thing to the clicky thing, turn all other controls fully clockwise. No liability will be accepted by the author if anyone should mistakenly assume that tuners/machine heads are "controls" within the scope of this post. Should any string become unaccountably slack or break, the control being turned is not the correct one. [1] There are some exceptions to this. If there isn't a clicky thing, turn it fully clockwise.

I encountered it but it sorted itself out in a couple of minutes.

<George Takei> I've read books... </GT>

Do any of the string trees, er, "need replacing"?

Once upon a time, a "Loudness" button was a common sight on hi-fi amps. The idea of it was that it would reduce mids when at low volumes (or boost lows & highs, same difference really).

Do you ever post anything other than slagging off Bartolinis? Great pickups.

I managed to blow the speaker in my combo at one gig, I think due to some weird room resonance which I didn't try to sort out immediately (lesson learnt). I put the bass through the PA - Alto TS408s, which coped admirably well.

Bandwerkz. Integrates with Google Calendar too.

I haven't heard a 1265 with the original Bartolinis in the flesh - mine had them replaced with Aguilar DCBs and sounds great. I've heard the original 1265 pickups and the Nordstrand pickups in reviews, and the BH2s sounded slightly indistinct but the Nordstrands were very shouty - I thought they were rather too aggressive. And I hate trying to describe sound verbally.

I think there's 15 different models in the range now, and the 1265 has disappeared. The fact that there are so many models and they're increasing the range is a good sign. I'd like to see a fretless 5 in a natural finish.

Because the current owner has played it a bit more in the last 15 years, perhaps. Knowing as little as I do about vintage Fenders and finding the whole thing about refinishing a bass knocking enormous amounts off its value ludicrous, I would suggest that the checking showing up in the finish is the reason that it was "restored" rather than "refinished", so the majority of that checked finish could be kept and just the enormous graze on it be cleaned up a bit - scrub the wound out, slap a bit of emulsion on it, that'll sort it.

Well, you know it must be on a fretless instrument as you've got to play at fret 3.2 and fret 2.4. Some sort of microtonal experiment then.

I assume that he means the case has sat under the bed for 50 years, not the bass itself.

Sugar is a free optional extra. Milk comes as standard, no milk is £200 extra. Well, if Fodera can do it for not putting frets in...

The difference with speaker and headphone feeds to line-level or mic-level feeds is that induced interference is relatively much, much smaller relative to the signal, and the input impedance to a speaker or headphones is considerably lower. Line level is around 2V p-p, mic level is 200-300mV p-p, while 5W being sent to an 8 ohm speaker is around 24V p-p.

I've got the UMC204HD which is fine - I did think it had gone horribly wrong at one point when it went very noisy and crackly. The USB connections were rather inaccessible, when I finally unplugged it and plugged it in again it was fine.

Drying it is easy enough if you have a warm house. And there's always potential for blackmail if someone appears to have strange fetishes, like showering with a gig bag. Although if there's not a webcam in the bathroom, that should be safe.

Well, the jazz control plate is so they can get it dead cheap from AliExpress. They've made a hash of routing the cavity though, maybe the scratchplate is also an AliExpress cheapie. I did wonder why they'd put a scratchplate on at all, but of course with swappable modular preamps you need something like that.

Or put it in the bath, or take a shower with it. I'm sure nobody would ever consider that a subject for blackmail.

Why not order one now? https://www.sims.guitars/enfield-guitars/lionheart

And this is why a valve Trace amp into an open circuit speaker will be infinitely loud. So loud that it will drive your ears into instant shutdown so you won't actually hear anything.

Oh good, an illiterate troll.