tauzero

I was wondering what all the fuss was about. I can't think of anything more ordinary and unexciting than a black P.

Hmmm, I can see a problem there. Jack's a right-hander.

That's an ancient thread resurrection. I haven't tried a Spector for years - when I did, I was impressed by the quality and they were quite affordable, but I couldn't get on with the necks.

Yes, got that now. I was assuming a constant depth shallow channel for the truss string which would place the top attachment for the tension string vertically above it in that diagram rather than offset by Y.

I'm not in a situation to go amp-free because I have no idea what PA any band I'm in will have, but I have gone to a combo which offers 500W from 9.5kg (that's three furlongs and 25 barleycorns in old money).

So the truss cable runs at a diagonal from the bottom securing point to somewhere on the jutting girder side of the building? I see what you mean, that would exert a greater lateral force.

Think of the neck as a skyscraper 20m thick. On one side is a girder sticking out 2m, on the other is a channel 2m inside the wall. One cable is attached to the end of the girder, the other to the ground directly below it, and on the other side, a cable is attached to the top of the channel and to the ground directly below. Tension is put into the cable attached to the girder. The integral strength of the structure will resist the bending but it will end a bit. In order to provide an opposite tension of sufficient force to exactly balance that force, the tension in the cable running in the tunnel will need to be 12/8 times (1.5 times) that in the girder cable, as the offset from the centre of the skyscraper is 12m in one case and 8m in the other.

I was at a mini festival a couple of years ago and somebody sang a song he'd written called "I hate Margaret Thatcher". There's nothing like being topical with protest songs (see also "Dirty Blackleg Miners").

The strings are offset from the centre line of the neck. At the nut end, that's a little over half the thickness of the neck (neck plus nut slots). At the bridge end, there is more of an offset as the strings are further from the centre line. The tension applied at the nut and the bridge causes torque (tension multiplied by offset) that bows the neck. Now, the truss cable is set into the neck, so the offset from the centre line of the neck is smaller. This means that in order to produce an equal and opposite torque, the cable must be under greater tension than the total of the strings.

It was only to pick up the percussive sound, if you want string sound you need to put piezos somewhere on or under the bridge. You can get piezo bridge saddles (probably not for the tuners you're getting, though) or put a piezo strip between the mobile bits of the tuners and the bit that's fixed to the body. Looking again at the tuners, that would be a piezo strip between the height adjusters and the bridge base. Just search for "piezo pickup acoustic" to see the sort of thing I mean. However, I think it would be a bit tricky and probably sound shyte as well.

That looks lovely.

Some day I'll get round to replacing the strap buttons on my Hohner cricket bat with straplocks - I intend to move the neck strap peg to the top leading edge of the body, a mod that I have seen done somewhere. @FlatEric has a bass with a strap button in the corresponding position:

Wouldn't the display give some indication if the power supply cut out? The symptoms in the first paragraph don't seem to be those of an intermittent PSU, not if OP is switching between tuner mode and patch mode.

Surely it's the bending moment which is significant, and the strings are offset from the centre line of the neck by a greater amount than the truss cable, hence the tension in the truss cable would need to be higher than that in the strings in order to create an identical bending moment.

Surely you'll be getting another bottle of port extender, so you can experiment with securing the current one to the current cab.

Regardless of the ludicrous pricing, the seller does provide plenty of detailed photographs [1] and information on defects, albeit estate agency might be an alternative career. Anyone buying something from him/her is not being hoodwinked, simply delusional. [1] For us to laugh at

I would guess at Being willing to help carry kit in and out Doing homework - not coming to rehearsals unprepared Sociable which don't just apply to bassists.

That looks much more like the body shape than the other one - the horns are far too fat on the other Jupiters, the body in the OP's picture looks more like an SGC Nanyo (it isn't as it's the wrong headstock) and it seems to have a large and a small soapbar.

Couldn't you just try swapping necks with one of your other Ps?

I think you'd be best off filling that crevice in to avoid hissing or other intrusive noises - I'm no expert but I think you'd want something that will stick firmly and fill gaps, like wood filler or epoxy resin. From what I recall of wood glues, some are happy to fill gaps and others are rather poor at the job.

Given the other two, are you sure the first one shouldn't be "reacharound"?

I feel that drummers (and other band members) at my time in life (50+, let's say) should have become competent, so I should only have to consider their temperament, reliability, and equipment. I frequently find out that I was wrong about the competence.

Perhaps they've been using Bass Direct's imperial/metric converter. Or maybe they're giving the size of the footprint rather than the actual width.

There used to be a loudness button on many a hi-fi amp (may still be, I don't seem to have any on mine). What that did was raise the bass and treble levels to make the perceived frequency response flat. There's a good summary of it here: https://www.extron.com/article/loudnesscontrol_ts. That would be just the thing for a home practice button.

Unless your other bass is a Warwick or a Sei 🙂