tauzero

Perhaps they've been using Bass Direct's imperial/metric converter. Or maybe they're giving the size of the footprint rather than the actual width.

There used to be a loudness button on many a hi-fi amp (may still be, I don't seem to have any on mine). What that did was raise the bass and treble levels to make the perceived frequency response flat. There's a good summary of it here: https://www.extron.com/article/loudnesscontrol_ts. That would be just the thing for a home practice button.

Unless your other bass is a Warwick or a Sei 🙂

I'm a bit concerned by that gunge on the screwdriver. Have you tested for Covid?

I had one as my first proper bass. It was when Hayman had gone bust and there was a fire at the Fender Soundhouse, and they were clearing out Hayman parts. I intended to build a twin neck bass & guitar but some of the parts didn't fit, so finished up with a 40/40 bass. A few years later, under the misguided impression that Fenders were the bass to have, I traded it in against a Precision.

Thomas Eich. Helpful with my old Tech Soundsystems NS410, then gave me advice on fitting a fan to my Tecamp Puma 900.

I never fail to be impressed by the profundity of Lip up, fatty, ah, lip up, fatty, for the reggae Lip up, fatty, ah, lip up, fatty, for the reggae Listen to the music, shuffle up your feet Listen to the music of the fatty beat

Did you recreate the MUSIC folder or just copy the test file into root?

I don't know about fantastic - I do like it. Not enough to give it a home though.

Some time ago, someone on here recommended the Audio Technica ATH-M20X. I bought a pair and found them comfortable and with good quality sound, for a mere £50.

Zoom B3, Zoom B3n, Zoom MS-60B, Tanglewood something, Korg CA2, Tascam GB-10, MOD Dwarf, Line 6 HX Stomp. I've tuned basses with all of them, and more, without problems. The point being that if you have a multifx with a tuner, you shouldn't need to take a separate tuner too. I do occasionally think of getting a Strobostomp for setting up intonation. So far I've got away with playing the 12th fret harmonic and comparing it with the fretted octave.

With a drill and a soldering iron, you could knock your own up. One DPDT footswitch to switch between the two inputs, a second footswitch to switch on and off.

You need a fair bit of processor power - Odroid N2+ perhaps, which already has a decent DAC so would just need an ADC. Has a Pi-compatible 40-pin GPIO. There appears to be a few VSTs available for Linux and JOST to run them. I'm not going to pretend to be an expert though. Conventional and USB host MIDI - should be able to run softsynths (like MOD devices & MODEP).

There's the EA iAmps - I had an iAmp500, eventually sold it. The Classic is a different colour scheme but the EQ is the same. The Ashdown Superfly and Superduperfly had a graphic EQ but with the editor software you could get to a 7-band parametric EQ. I thought it was a great shame that they didn't make that front end available as a separate pedal - I did suggest it to them but they evidently weren't interested.

It's because they're very very cheap. And there's a reason for that...

Congratulations on not losing several minutes of your life.

I think I may have responded to this in another sub-forum. Pros for onboard - controls fall easily to hand, with centre-detented pots it's easy to get a flat setting. Pros for outboard - can have more controls, if you want to change it or try other ones you don't have to dismantle anything. There's nothing to stop you having both onboard and outboard. You should be able to wire a switch to bypass the active onboard if you really want to, though heaven knows why you would (except if your battery runs down, as it will every four or five years).

You could always try Hipshot. Makre sure you're sitting down before you look at the price. https://hipshotproducts.com/collections/bass-headless/products/headless-bass-headpiece?variant=43188330824

Surely non-vocational courses are to broaden the mind and encourage one to learn about learning? That's why that nice Mr Sunak wanted to do away with them, because they didn't contribute economically. https://news.sky.com/story/sunak-vows-to-crack-down-on-university-degrees-that-do-not-improve-earning-potential-12667369

"The lifespan of a hospital corpsman from the time his foot hits the water till the time he almost gets to the beach is seven seconds" - Bill Cosby, "Medic"

You cannot be sillyars!

Not keen on the bulbous top horn or the general plastic toy vibe. There are definitely more hideous basses out there though.

Mine's an ETB1265MS which had been fitted with Aguilar DCB pickups but has the original electronics. Judging by Youtube videos (not the ideal source), it's a good upgrade - certainly the bass has great clarity. The preamp is very good, I don't feel any need to replace it. I think it's the most attractive finish as well, which is nice.

You can use Tonelib Zoom https://tonelib.net/tonelib-zoom.html to store and restore your patches (and edit them as well). I think the Zoom software (Guitarlab?) also allows the same. Could the issue be with the input socket? Or the cable connecting the I/O board to the main board? Have a look at this video for disassembly instructions on the similar G3xn: