tauzero

Just to follow this up, I have been testing the concept of a USB-C powered 30Wish amp. Here's the test rig: The smaller board is the ZY12PDN USB-C controller board (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193527265113?var=493739920515), the larger one is a 30W amp module from Ebay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144946097523). I tested this with a couple of power supplies. A bass (Ibanez EHB1265 in active mode) was able to give more than enough signal to push the amp module to distortion running at 12V. I've got another power supply coming which hopefully will deliver 20V. I have a cunning plan to avoid sticking a signal up the backend of the amp module if using the cab as a cab - the amp input and output and a USB-C connector will all go to a second recessed plate, and the amp will then be connected to the speaker when I want to use it with a J-J lead, the same way as many combo amps (especially guitar) are done.

You have got the tip on the socket connected to the centre lug on the pot, haven't you? This is where a multimeter would be handy, to see if the resistance between tip and ring of the output jack was constant or if it dropped as you backed the tone off.

As for the bass, it's a no from me.

They've probably been locked so quickly that you never saw them which should answer your question. See also transsexuality.

Interesting pickup placement - not following the fan pattern, so the lower strings will presumably be more bassy and the upper strings more trebly, the opposite to a Warwick Thumb.

But the mono saddle blocks need moving, and I'm not sure where the B and G strings would finish up towards the upper end of the fretboard. Out of the box, they're 16.5mm spacing (just checked my for sale advert from a year ago).

My Lekato bugs will do about five hours.

String spacing is much less than 18mm. Excellent basses otherwise.

Ibanez EHB1005, 1265, or 1505. Just switch the active/passive switch to passive.

I'd forgotten about that Omnibass. I'd like to try that too, both five and four strings (I had a 5-string Ergo EUB which I didn't get on with and I'd like to know if I could cope with a 5-string Omnibass).

I haven't experimented with this yet, but bottom left of the Web UI is the function selection, and "Banks" is the middle one of the five functions. You can add a bank and drag pedalboards into it.

Click on "Advanced", the sole purpose of which appears to be to allow you to rename the function.

Presumably the "short scale bass" would be one with a 35" scale.

Ditto.

There are 20 people you hate that much?

It also means you don't have to learn any songs as all the notes sound exactly the same.

Basslab doubleneck 5-string headless fretted + fretless. To see what the necks were like - if they were nice, I'd like one with parallel necks and the fretless on top. I'd also like to try a Ritter Roya 5-string.

I did have a look for it on the MOT history webpage but it wasn't there, so it must have been withdrawn at some point.

The mob that attacked the capitol on January 6th last year were waving confederate flags and chanting "USA, USA". I think they must have missed the point of the civil war.

4KOF got through, but not PEN15 or 80LOX. I've seen TWA77Y too. Because computers can't recognise all the naughty permutations, every six months they print out all the numbers to be issued and people read through them to find the rude ones.

When I put a filter on for five strings, the first three basses shown were 4-strings. And there was a Bacchus headless 5-string. Must resist...

I liked most of it - not so keen on the first verse. But then I also like Coldplay, Nickelback, and U2, and dislike most Prince, so the Basschat thought police will be coming for me.

In Arduinoland, ezButton is pretty handy. https://arduinogetstarted.com/tutorials/arduino-button-library - the button array is good for multiple buttons. Setting the pressed time when isPressed is true and then comparing it when isReleased is true and seeing what the delay was. I did a similar ESP32 page turner using bluetooth - made it to send page up/down, line up/down, or next/prev window with a display to say which it was doing. That was before I encountered ezButton so it debounced by spotting the button press, hanging on briefly, then checking if the button was still pressed. Subsequently I saw another method which I thought was very clever - there's a variant on it at https://www.e-tinkers.com/2021/05/the-simplest-button-debounce-solution/ (go down to "The simplest debounce function").

I'm impressed. I never realised anyone had the patience to do one of those shred videos for 20 minutes.

You can multiplex OLEDs: https://www.instructables.com/Arduino-on-I2c-Multiplexer-Tca9548a-1/ which looks quite simple.