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tauzero

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by tauzero

  1. Normally a headless will have a body which extends to the end of the tuners on each side, and typically there will be a strap peg both above and below them. This means that you can stand it on end without bothering with a stand. If the tuners are exposed, you really need to use a stand.
  2. Another solution - a locking strap. https://www.gear4music.com/Guitar-and-Bass/Planet-Waves-Planet-Lock-Guitar-Strap-Polypropylene-Black/KJP (available in other patterns)
  3. If you've got all the MP3s you'll want, what about a Tascam GB-10? Load the MP3s onto it and play along. Use a cheap wireless system to get rid of the guitar lead. Allows you to change pitch and speed, loop a section, even record. Built-in tuner and metronome. Powered by a brace of AA batteries.
  4. I very rarely use plectrums but when I do, I use the same as I do on guitar - the black (1mm) Dunlop Max-Grip.
  5. I moved to 5-strings some years ago from Warwick Thumb 4s, initially with an Antoniotsai (the most playable 5-string I'd found) and later got a couple of Seis. More recently I've bought two Ibanezeseses which will probably go into rotation with the Seis, and will also probably be the preferred recording basses.
  6. I fancy one of the double-necks. The trouble is that I'm not sure how well the neck would suit me (the measurements and Basslab's description imply it's a bit deeper and fatter than I'd like) and it's quite a lot of money to spend on something that may turn out not to my liking.
  7. Aha. I think there was another thread on the same subject.
  8. If it helps, the switcher that I breadboarded but never got round to casing up for the MS-60B or B3/G3 uses the program change message 0xC0 + 1 byte patch number, which must be 0-49 for the MS-60B and 0-99 for the B3/G3. Somebody else on here built something similar but a little more sophisticated than mine.
  9. Add an extension to the headstock using metal dowels to strengthen the join? Looking at my Dean Edge 10-string, I doubt you could even convert that to 12 string.
  10. It's worth reading the MOD Devices forum on their current situation. They have collapsed but are looking to get investment to be able to purchase everything from the liquidator and keep going. You could always go Zynthian instead - https://zynthian.org/
  11. So you haven't got the same problem as the OP. I'm trying to work out why you assumed I was asking how much volume you were short of, as it was the OP I was trying to elicit that information from. Then it all got confusing. The answer for the OP is my original question - are you lacking in volume at the moment?
  12. One of my headlesses sits on a stand as the tuners protrude past the body. It's one of this type, though it has a solid pivoting safety thing rather than a big rubber band:
  13. tauzero

    DIY Effects

    You need to know what the current is too. Typically about 20mA but different colours are different currents. Dropping 7V at 20mA would take a 350R resistor.
  14. Is the speaker maxed out at that point? I'm just trying to work out why your current equipment isn't already a one cab solution.
  15. Hamburger Concerto by Focus Wish You Were Here by Pink Floyd Bat out of Hell by Meat Loaf Love It to Death by Alice Cooper
  16. How far short of volume are you?
  17. My Antoniotsai is retrofitted witha Warwick Just-a-Nut I, which is c. 9mm c-c.
  18. The Royal Mail strikes are the odd day rather than constant. Delays, yes, but should still get there reasonably quickly. No more strike days for a week. https://www.royalmail.com/latest-news
  19. And funnily enough, I've just got my TC Helicon Double and Create XT off the shelf where they've been living for years, wondering whether to sell them or try to use them.
  20. The other version is when the boom joint isn't quite fully tightened, and the mic gets performance anxiety and gradually droops lower and lower.
  21. They seem to pay out most of the time. I've just been reading through the Trustpilot reviews and it seems that the complainers haven't followed their procedures. Not taking "before" photos, not using a service that required a signature, and not submitting the claim soon enough seem to be the primary reasons. I'm not saying that the terms aren't fairly onerous, but you have to adhere to the policy rules taking out car insurance so it's not unreasonable to do the same for parcel insurance. Last time I sent something, Interparcel wanted a hefty chunk on top for insurance. I booked direct through UPS instead, and the cost was quite a bit less including a declared value.
  22. Are you sure you're not getting a little paranoid? Sorry if I seemed a little abrupt.
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