tauzero

That, and Joe Cocker's "Little Help", are very much subjective. Personally, I love both of them. The Alexander Burke version of "Hallelujah" is objectively awful though.

Just what I was going to say.

"Hey Mr Plant, my band's just done this cover of Stairway and we were wondering what to call ourselves, here, I'll play it to you <song plays> There, what do you think we should call the band? Hey lads, he said Far Corp. Far Corporation it is then."

I'm not sure how useful this answer is, but the strength of neodymium magnets varies with their size. I see what you're saying, but the magnet material will presumably make a difference as will how they are magnetised. If the issue is relative loudness of strings, I'd suggest experimentation.

I'm looking to do the same thing and I've concluded that it's simplest to cut the DC patch cables that came with the power supply to length and put new plugs on. Cut and shut is another option but wouldn't be as neat.

Could be fiddly if the socket is PCB mounted and tore a track. Plus that's quite a bit more than the going rate appears to be.

What do you mean, untidy?

StageFlex do a 3x1.0 too: https://www.stage-electrics.co.uk/View/21675/stageflex-37027-metre-x-bs6500-h07rn-f-rubber-cable-3core-1mm-black (and in white also).

Given the nature and location of many rehearsal studios, it may partly be a way of holding on to land until someone wants it for residential development and then selling it at a vast profit. For instance, https://goo.gl/maps/xwzpyK6dDXH5DGab9 - on the left is Robanna's studios (also does PA hire and recording, which are further revenue streams), on the right are new apartments which used to be industrial premises the same as Robanna's.

I sit corrected. That seems confusing, given that amps are clockwise for louder whether you're left or right handed.

I think you can patent a circuit if it is a novel application.

I went to see it at the cinema when it came out. Much self-indulgent guitar widdlery.

Surely left-handed basses are clockwise for louder and anti-clockwise for quieter, just like right-handed, so this stuff about left-handed and right-handed wiring is just a load of bollocks?

I can't see the logic in thinking it would be leftie wiring. Clockwise is clockwise whichever way up the pot is, and as volume pots are log pots, having them wired the other way round would mean they should be antilog pots. Just c0cked-up wiring.

The Fender ones are Schaller compatible (originally made by Schaller, in fact). Thomann do Schaller compatibles for about a fiver (plus a tenner shipping, so get anything else you may want at the same time) - https://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_security_locks_bk.htm So just get a set of those, install them on the new bass, and you've got strap buttons that work with the current strap and if you should splash out on a new strap, you can fit the new straplocks to that and use it with either bass.

They face the same problem as Harley Davidson did with motorcycles. HD have finally jettisoned the old design, but their twin lines of Sportster and Glide were it for decades, and although the V-Rod was made for nearly 20 years it got dropped as traditional HD customers didn't buy them. Fender have made the occasional bass other than P and J with the Mustang being the only one that's been fairly successful (although the Bass VI has been successful enough to be revived every so often for a couple of years).

That's right, the seller gets 75-85% of the hammer price, the buyer pays 115-125% of the hammer price (plus VAT on the bit over 100%) and the auction house gets the 30-50%.

There will also be a seller's premium, typically about the same as the buyer's premium.

Rectangular holes are tricky - I've done them by drilling out enough room for a power file and using that to make the hole rectangular, but it's not perfect and some hand finishing is needed. A laser cutter would do it but it would have to be a bit more powerful than a hobby one.

I think it means he doesn't know the exact model. It is lined fretless. The vocalist of a former band, many years ago, had one. I tried and didn't like. He wanted to get rid of it so it got included in the part-exchange deal for my Warwick Thumb and I paid him back the £75 that Musical Exchanges gave me for it. How times and prices change.

My thought was that if there was significant latency, I would pluck with the backing track but that sound would be delayed so the bass would lag slightly. I've played through a PA which had significant latency and it threw me off seriously, I kept slowing down for it, so I think I'd know if there was a lag. The pluck and the sound of the pluck were as I'd expect. I'll see if I can set up a dual-beam scope to measure the latency.

So the fact that I played perfectly in time with the music being played from the GB-10, while the signal from the bass was travelling through two wireless systems and an HX Stomp, is meaningless? When the issue being cast doubt on was whether it would be laggy enough to affect playing? Sorry it didn't live up to your preconceptions.

That ship has long sailed for me. My straw panama hat is disintegrating so has been retired and I have a fabric panama hat which has yet to be gigged.

"Less than 12mS" can mean 1mS, of course. Seeing as there seemed such concern about latency with this, I carried out an experiment. After all, it's all very well pontificating about it, but evidence trumps speculation. The experiment: Bass -> Lekato 5GHz bug wireless -> HX Stomp -> Lekato MS-1 -> Tascam GB10 -> wired headphones This introduces two wirelesses in the chain, plus a digital effects pedal. The result - no perceptible latency. So not "utter dog" at all. Lekato - the Harley Benton of wireless.

I consider locking jack sockets to be the work of Satan. If you're playing connected with a lead then the lead or the amp or the first item on the pedalboard becomes the sacrificial victim if you stray too far or someone (including you) steps on the lead, whereas with a non-locking socket the lead will simply pull out. Whether you play with a lead or wireless, it's fiddly getting the plug out at the end, and the teeny tiny button hurts your finger/thumb. So I wanted to de-lock my Ibanez EHB. This, in theory, is a simple operation. Remove the small crosshead screw holding in the core of the socket, slide it out, remove whichever locking bits you want. However, my socket core appeared to be held in with a rivet, so replacement was the way to go. The entire structure corresponds to an XLR blanking plate (type D IIRC) so I got one of those and a jack socket, drilled a hole in the middle of the blanking plate, discovered that the screw holes meant I had to have it as an outie rather than an innie, soldered it up, then put it back in position. Lovely. Well, as I was writing this, I thought I'd include a picture of the locking jack socket and its rivet. And then, looking more closely with a magnifying glass, I saw that the rivet wasn't a rivet, it was a Torx (6-pointed) screw. Oh well...