tauzero

Get the honeycomb rollers from them when you get it, they work very well.

I thought I'd have a look at it - that day I started watching it at home then went to the pub which was frequented by a lot of Tamworth musicians and watched more of it, but things did start getting a bit cloudy. Anyroadup, just found it on Youtube. Rock and roll - Plant's vocals are awful, Page's solo too. Skipped Whole Lorra Lorra Love and listened to Stairway - vocals and guitar good until the solo, when Page just plays an endless succession of bûm notes.

Did anybody get set "write a full account of the amp shoot-out" for homework?

I used a straight edge and found a couple of places where the edge was slightly proud (rather like a fret rocker), then used a couple of long pieces of wood with the grille sandwiched between them as suggested by @sandy_r to hold it in the workmate with the wonky edge uppermost (as it was landscape rather than portrait it didn't fit between the threads of the workmate). I'd used masking tape to put along the edge so I could see the sticky-out bits, and attacking them with a power file sorted that out. Once I'd worked out the approach, this was the best solution as it was the grille that was misshapen, not the cab. So then I came to putting the LF driver in, and one allen bolt crossthreaded and jammed firmly and I managed to push the T-nut out of the baffle trying to extract it. I can see enough of the shaft to Dremel it off when I regain my morale. I've cut a groove in the baffle where the T-nut prongs go though so I'll need to make that good - araldite? I'm going to put a board over the driver while I perform the operation to try and avoid putting my hand or a power tool through it. It's just one thing after another, with the finishing post in sight.

I'll see, channels 1-3 are used for specific purposes on the XR12 so I'll check with MIDI-OX to see if that's what's coming out of the BCF.

If it wasn't painted up and with adhesive foam strip in place, that would have been the better approach.

Yes, I think I see a way doing that.

Thomann and TGI bags both have one piece handles.

The old adage "measure twice, cut once" can be extended to cover orientating twice and drilling once. Eagerly pressing on as I was after Tuffcabbing the whole cab, I put the corner protectors on the back corners, drilled screw holes for all four, and then realised that I'd put them the wrong way round and the drill holes should have been on the sides and bottoms, not the back. Holes drilled in the proper places and corner protectors fitted, and a little wood filler to fill the holes, which will be given a dab of Tuffcab. Doing a test fitting of the grille, I found it was very slightly oversized - a mm or two. I have assorted implements of destruction to rectify the situation - I think an angle grinder or bench grinder would be a bit extreme, a power file or belt sander seems more appropriate. Does the BC massive have an opinion? Just holding it on edge is going to be a bit tricky. I'm inclined to the power file (more suited to one handed operation).

Gives you an excuse to make more cabs.

On having a bit of a clearout of my rather cluttered desk top, I've found a second XM8500 that I didn't know I had. I shall relent and let him use that.

I find using a tablet to adjust faders on the XR12 is a bit hit and miss so I thought I'd get a motorised fader device to do the job, with the tablet mainly to be used for muting. To that end, I got a BCF2000. However, I'm having absolutely no joy with it. I suspect that it's something to do with the settings on the XR12 but I don't know what, and I haven't been able to find much information online. BCF2000 set up to S4 mode. MIDI in and out connected the right way round. BCF2000 set to Mackie/Cubase. XR12 audio/MIDI configured to DIN Tx on, DIN Rx on, DIN OSC on. The BCF2000 is sending out MIDI quite happily according to MIDI-OX. There's no sign of communication between the BCF2000 and the XR12, nor does the tablet connected to the XR12 show any signs of noticing that anything is happening. If there's anyone who's got the two of these working together, could they please tell me what they did?

A spanner is a totally different thing to a tongue. You may say that a tongue and a spanner are equivalent, but what empirical evidence do you have? I happen to have here a multimeter, and when held side by side the probes are almost exactly 1cm apart. When placed on my tongue, the resistance varies between 1M7 and 2M2. That's around 2 megohms per cm as an average, meaning a 9V battery would give a current of 4.5uA. So any speculation that a 1.5V battery with an unlimited current source would inflict more than 1/6 the damage of a 9V battery is pure hokum. Aren't you glad that BC members are willing to put their tongues at risk for the sake of experiment?

Especially problematic when the sound engineer is also the bassist.

You insist on putting pictures of yourself all over the venue?

What value of pots did you use?

I've just finished painting a cab with TuffCab. Blue Aran sell it and also sell honeycomb rollers which give an effective finish.

Once it gets into four figures I'm happier with a bank transfer (either way) or Paypal.

I was wondering if the trick with a wet cloth and iron would work to raise the wood underneath, if the crack has gone all the way through the paint and any sealer under it.

I've just bought the guitar version of this for a headless Sei, replacing a Thomann premium gigbag which finally expired after 12 years. For a headless with strap buttons each side of the bridge, the TGI has the upper hand, as the dual strap buttons went either side of the bottom reinforcement on the Thomann but the TGI has wider bottom reinforcement and more padding round the end of the bass. For a single strap button bass, the Thomann has the advantage of a huge amount of storage - Zoom MS-60B, power supply, wireless bugs, capo, and allen keys went in the top compartment, strap, music, and leads went into the bigger lower compartment, and a couple of kazoos went in the smaller lower compartment. If you just want to carry some music (up to A4), a strap, and a lead, the TGI will do it.

I've got two of the Stagg ones, one small and one large. After a fair bit of putting pedals on and taking pedals off, the "carpet" came away from the base, so I replaced it with a self-adhesive loop sheet.

Antoniotsai 5-string - wonderful to play but a bit lacking in bottom end, due to generic Chinese pickups. Fitted it with Bartolini pickups (it's a long time ago, can't remember which) and a Delano Sonar preamp, and it turned out very well. Handbuilt (not by me) 6-string headless - controls were V-V-pickup select, with the Vs having pull for coil splitting of the generic 4-wire Chinese pickups. Pickups replaced with Aguilar DCBs, preamp replaced with Aguilar OBP2, and a Roland GK3B installed.

It's all to do with whether their tails stick up or hang down (thank you, QI).

Note to self: don't leave Tuffcab sitting in the pot for three years waiting to b applied. Still mostly liquid but some bits have turned semi-hard. Basically, I got as far as assembling the cab but didn't get round to rounding off the edges, then other things got in the way, and then Covid and no gigs, and then I got a really lightweight combo... So I finally decided that I should get it done, and now it's sitting outside with its bottom Tuffcabbed and the first coat on for the rest of it. And I'll soon be able to get rid of the cardboard box with the woofer in and the other cardboard box with all the other bits in which are sitting on the coffee table, so I can find something else to put on the coffee table and annoy Mrs Zero.

A quick look at sold Thunder IIIs shows a couple (one fretted and one fretless) going for about £300 and one fretless going for £1000. Insanity.