tauzero

Coming on for twenty years ago, I had a Trace Elliot 4x10 combo. It was, er, very heavy, so heavy that I think one of the girls I know (she was a 2m ex-blacksmith before the operation) would have had problems with it. I later finished up with a Tecamp Puma 900 and Barefaced BB2, which had the advantages not only of being lighter than the Trace but sounding better too. I've only played one gig with the current combo, a GR Bass carbon fibre combo at 9.5kg for 500W, so I have yet to confirm that the sound is as good but it was promising.

Must have been a right palaver having a wee.

I've got the 5-string version of the Portamento and it's excellent. Plenty of tonal variation to be had and very playable.

If it was good enough for Bernard... Mind you, he never played slap[1]. [1] almost

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384954327400 I have a more primitive version of this. Ah, found it - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403709306880. Very handy device.

Stop buying basses in batches of 50 then.

You are either very insecure, very clumsy, or possessed of a tendency to overthink things. 😁

And you shouldn't buy neck-through basses because you can't just fit a new neck on them if it breaks.

The oldest of mine have worked perfectly for 35 years.

You can use any effect with any other effect, or indeed with the same effect again, with the ME-60B (which have you got, the ME-50G for guitars or the ME-60B for bass?). That's why I like the Zoom effects, the B3 was the first multieffects I encountered that didn't insist that you started with a compressor, then preamp, then modulation, then reverb/delay. The only limitation is the amount of processing power each uses, you can't exceed a certain total amount.

I can't quite see the logic in "had really good offers hence why i decided to put on here". Maybe the pricing is due to some issue with converting between base 12 and base 10 when he's counting on his fingers.

I use Schaller strap locks. Had an issue with one set of the S type as the hex head on the strap buttons seemed slightly oversize and one allen key (probably slightly undersize though I'd not had any problems with it before) turned in the head without moving it . Another allen key was able to tighten it, though it was still a somewhat sloppy fit. Boston make Schaller clones which are the correct size. The advantage of genuine Schallers is that they have a ramp on the peg that engages in the button, so you just click them on. The Bostons don't have that ramp, so you need to pull the knob out to get the straplock fully engaged.

If you're running Windows, download Tonelib Zoom from https://tonelib.net/ which makes editing effects very easy indeed.

The box is built, I'm getting some Dremel bits and a routery thing to try and do the rounding over. Some wood filler and sandpaper also lies in its future. Three of the battens for the rear panel are correctly aligned, the fourth is about 3mm further in so I've got to raise it a bit as the rear panel isn't going to be permanently fixed in place.

It's the ultimate in practicality. It means I can hook my Tsai basses on a washing line. None of the other poxy headstocks in this thread can boast that, can they?

Best: headless Next best: compact and lightweight with straight string runs. Maybe a bit of decoration, but keep those strings straight: While the Precision headstock is a pointless oversized overweight blob, the Tele headstock is all of that and fugly as well.

Also there's this: I found that a dirt cheap Kokko power supply would also do the job. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154867350921 - can't cope with a Raspberry Pi 4 powered soft synth as well, though.

My GB-10 has now got an interesting feature. Plugged into USB port on PC, on startup I select "Storage" and the GB-10 goes into USB storage mode but the PC doesn't recognise it. Also, connecting it via a hub, it gives "System Err 50 - Please PWR OFF". Other than that, it works fine, and I can transfer files into the MUSIC folder to play them. Anyone else had anything similar?

This one is using @Phil Starr's original plans. I have very little faith in my own ability to use power saws accurately (see later) so I found a place that would supply cut panels and got the panels from there. After getting panels, battens, speaker, connector plate, and speakons, the first thing to do was mark up all the panels for drilling. I wanted to screw and glue everything, so marked up lines to screw into the centre line of the battens and the centre line of the side panels and drilled 3mm holes. That was a few days ago. Then I got the screws and the glue arrived, so today was the next stage. Both sides battened up. Then the top (part battened in this photo): And with the bottom also done, I glued and screwed the sides to the bottom (seen inverter here): The mitre clamps aren't exactly up to professional standards, but they were four for a fiver or so off Ebay (rather than four or five quid each) and they did the job. I also cut the hole for the connector plate and for the port, and the hole for the speaker (which was a little wobbly but OK). Last job today was gluing the port in place. I was going to use grill cloth but after seeing @Pea Turgh's build, I've decided that the circular speaker grills look OK and it'll be simpler to work with, so one of those is about to be ordered. Given the absence of a router at Zero Towers, plus my complete lack of experience at handling said beast, I think rounding over is going to be by means of a sander. Front and rear panels will be getting blackchalkboard paint and I shall probably be wrapping the main body - I have an idea but I shan't reveal it yet. Current plan of action is to finish box assembly tomorrow and do the painting and covering in the week.

That 2.3A looks well over the top - how can the converter survive dissipating that much power, assuming it has to be dissipated? I know it's just 4W or so but these aren't big components. My approach has been that I'm going to be running a wired connection from the pedalboard to the amp, and a mains connection to the amp, so I'm happy to run a mains wall-wart to a DC extension cable which I cable-tie to the jack-jack lead from pedalboard to amp and feed that into the power supply. Not sure about that C3 Mate, you seem to lose a load of pins and the Bluetooth/BLE side of things compared to the WROOM or others which are £6-£6-50. It is an instant IWOOT but a little consideration is justified before buying it (says the man with three RP2040s, one of which seems to have disappeared).

I imagine that the brass section with the recess for the string ball end has an external thread and the knurled knob has an internal thread. It would need stringing up by putting the ballend in the brass bit and unscrewing the knob as far as it goes, then threading the other end of the string through the unheadstock clamp, pulling it tight, and clamping it, then screwing the knob in to tension the string - the brass insert looks like it has a hex cross-section so won't rotate (much). Looks as if it would sort of work, but destringing and restringing with the same strings might not work too well.

My pedalboard is intended to hold HX Stomp, expression pedal, 6-button MIDI controller, Line 6 G50 wireless receiver, mini mixer, and Fluidpatcher (successor to Squishbox) with a McMillen 12-step to control it, and a power supply of some sort. However, I'm no longer with the bands I was going to use it with, and I hadn't quite sorted out the power supply (HX Stomp and a Raspberry Pi 4 suck up a fair bit of power between them) - I've got a few buck converters which I was going to string together and run from a 12V laptop power supply, must get round to trying that sometime.

I recently put a Zynthian together and also have another Pi 4 powered softsynth playing SF2 via Fluidsynth - https://github.com/albedozero/fluidpatcher but I've modified mine to use a 20x4 character display. The approach I've taken to powering ESP32 and Raspberry Pi things is to just use a 9V 5.5/2.1 DC socket with a bridge rectifier to avoid embarrassing reverse polarity catastrophe and buck converters set to 5V running to Vin. For Arduinos I also use a bridge rectifier but I just put the 7.5V from the bridge rectifier into Vin. That means not using any USB connectors for powering devices (Zynthian is an exception to this, but I had no say about the means of powering it - a headless Zynthian I've made, if I bother boxing it up, will be 9V powered). Looking back at the pictures of your mockup, I see Squishbox is in there so you may already have got to Fluidpatcher, it supersedes Squishbox.

I think the current draw of an HX Stomp is around 1A @9V, so just running off a 10000 mAh 5V USB bank should give about 5 hours of use. Step-up voltage regulators seem pretty cheap and you'd only need a 2A capable one. I've only used step-downs so far. One thing I do prefer is fixed voltage ones rather than adjusting the voltage with a pot, which is probably a silly preference. Have you any plans to publish the plans and software? Incidentally, I do love the ESP32 but I feel guilty about not using all its capabilities. I built a footswitch for page turning (and line up/down) using an ESP32 for BLE, and it's a pretty simple little thing.

That's excellent.