tauzero

If it's making the right noise at the moment and your only concern is removing the push/pull, I'd just go with the values of whatever is currently in there.

Decide which capacitor gives you the tone range you want and swap in a pot of the same value and the capacitor, which would be wired up the same way as a P.

Should really go into "acrimonious band break-ups".

GR Bass AT800 Cube, 9.5kg. Must put mine up for sale.

Tried the PiPedal on a Pi 5 with a Hifiberry DAC+ but it didn't want to know - not sure why, as I did the correct config amendments and it shows up in aplay. However, from the discussion forum it looks like USB interfaces are the recommended way forward, so I've decided not to waste any more of my life on that - it'll get put to other purposes. I've got a Presonus Studio 24c incoming to play with so I don't have to start unwiring the other USB interfaces I have littering the house. More news next week sometime.

That's exactly the reason I sold mine, many years ago - I was used to the weight of a Thumb and there was this featherweight thing, great to play but felt so insubstantial. I'd rather like a 5-string now, decades later.

Ditto. Tell them you have commitments with your new band.

At the moment, the simultaneous best and worst is a Shuker Uberhorn 5 fretless - beautiful bass with an unplayably high action, bought at long range in a Gardiner Houlgate auction. The problem with the action is due to a mullered truss rod, so it is currently with Jon for a complete rebuild and conversion to 34" scale from 35".

I'm sure that the original NTB 4 BXP, with the scooped lower horn, was 34" scale. I remember looking at the specs at the time and noticing the difference in scale length (something that stuck in my head). There's also a Talkbass thread (that I can't link to) with a couple of people who own scoop-fronted Grind BXP 4s which are 34".

I think that 4-string NT Peaveys are generally 34" while 5 and 6-strings are 35", although the predecessor to the Cirrus, the Zephyr (or C5) had a 34" 5-string neck.

As I'm a cheapskate, I've bought a couple of Lekato straps. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403939133970 and https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403812500121

What is wrong with it as it is, and what exactly do you want to achieve? Looks like the current tone control switches between two capacitors to give two different ranges of treble cut.

It's what he would have wanted.

I use Elites Stadium, but that's just me.

I was in an originals band (now in hiatus) where the drummer was also a sound engineer, and he went with the sE V7. I decided to indulge myself a few months ago and went for an sE V7 myself. Very happy with it.

I got caught out by two things when I switched to an XR18 from an XR12 - I couldn't power the travel router from the USB port and the AUX outputs for monitors are XLR rather than TRS jack.

No, it's the wrong end, so as to speak. The XR12/XR16 are USB hosts, so they can supply USB power, while the XR18 is a USB device - a receiver of power rather than a giver of it.

Also ordered a fret kisser. Just have to see whether I can rise above my normal level of incompetence at using luthier tools.

Space - that's a nice idea. Wish I had some.

Whoever organises the list needs to put him on first, then put him plus parents on last.

No.

At the Kingfisher in Shard End, Birmingham last night. We were in the front room, unlike previous occasions when we were in the back room. Took my Plenty cab and TC BAM200. A fellow bassist also came along - plugged him into my amp with my lead (home-made, Rean plugs, straight to right-angle) and after one song the lead fell out - oddly, the tip had come off the right-angle plug. Switched leads and all was well. At the end of the evening I found the tip on the floor. On examination, the central shaft that goes between the tip and the plug contact is splined and a press fit into the tip. New plug needed - at least I've got plenty of spares. And his Godin A5 sounded good through my little rig.

Nobody has ever told me I should play a P. Am I doing something wrong?

One passive bass, one which I bought passive but I subsequently activated, 30ish active. The Megatar is also passive. World Battery Change Day promises to be quite expensive. Added to that, all my guitars are active except one - the electrics are Variaxes and a Jamstik, the acoustics are electroacoustics except for one.