tauzero

"during 70s 80s and 90s" - so three decades of playing, five decades of possession. Presumably he got himself a proper bass 25 years ago. I wouldn't automatically assume that having no pics of the neck stamp but knowing that it's there is necessarily a sign of it being dodgy - after all, if he's ever had to adjust the truss rod, he'd have taken the neck off and seen the stamp, but wouldn't necessarily have thought to take a photo (or it might have been before digital cameras and cameras on phones). Still, he's going to find more demand for it if he does go the extra mile.

You could get some suede and stick it to the underside of the strap, seeing as that is (I think) a wide padded strap. I have a similar Lekato strap - I don't have any neck-divey basses that I use standing but I checked the strap and the neoprene/memory foam is a bit slippier than I imagined it would be.

Sue Ryder bass?

Not too shocking (not cheap though) at 160€. Top tip: TransferWise is very useful to do bank transfers to banks in forn parts.

Gorilla ones for me too, they've needed a nut and a star bolt replaced in ten years or more.

Headless bass.

Not unless I've changed gender and nationality without noticing. I suppose I should have mentioned that it was somebody else's review.

What I was trying to say earlier was that a totally rigid bridge won't absorb energy itself, so if the high mass bridge deforms less than the BBOT then it will absorb less energy itself and therefore the sustain will be greater, given that all other elements of the system remain the same.

I think it would just have to be a reasonably rigid beam, as you're looking at a comparison rather than an absolute.

They're available on Ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/387060057584

Phil's video does give thorough guidance on the assembly.

Kala used to do the SUB range (I have one, a fretted 5). They dropped those some time ago, in fact they'd dropped them when I got mine so Thomann were flogging them off (just call me Betamax man). They are now doing a cheaper bass uke range, but these are steel strung with magnetic pickups rather than rubber strings and piezo.

Possibly this:

I bought a Batking one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363555959883. Surprisingly good.

That's fine, as long as it's not me spending money I'm happy 😁

When I shimmed one neck with a brass shim, I put it over the two neck bolts closest to the bridge rathe than between them and the end of the neck.

I've played one, albeit a four-string, and I didn't like the neck. Which I was very pleased about, as it meant I wouldn't be tempted to spend ridiculous amounts of money.

No warranty replacement - a) I opened the amp up to diagnose the problem, voiding the warranty, and b) warranty for woofer is only one year. They've offered to sell me a replacement at a discount, just waiting to find out how much that will be.

Do you need to have the XR18 remote from the stage, rather than on the stage with control being done remotely?

In my Firefox, it's in the Extensions section under the menu item "Add-ons and Themes".

Ah yes, sorry, that's what happens. Memory fading (and I only bought some stuff from there a few months ago). But the seller still finishes up with 60% of what the buyer pays (in total), rather than 60% of the sale price.

I checked the two I had left with digital calipers, and they weren't tapered. For whatever reason, the first one did the job on the bass I used it on.

If you go into the Add-ons manager, do you see F.B. Purity in there and is it enabled? If not, you could try using Add-ons manager to add FBP and see if that solves the problem.

Surely if it transmits 100% of the energy from the string to the body, it is infinitely rigid and therefore not deforming and not absorbing energy, so no damping. If it was absorbing 100% of the energy and transmitting none, it would be damping the string.

If you've used tapered shims, you haven't used the ones in the OP. And I don't know why you've mentioned plywood, I don't think anybody else did.