tauzero

He did originally play the Squier, then became a little bit of a gear snob and went to Fender (a proper gear snob would have gone for something good as well as expensive).

I have a sense of deja vu.

Dirty protest?

It's not really news when it's music-outlet-shop though.

Does look nice. I'd be very tempted if it had enough strings.

"A new neck and almost new body, but my tools slipped a couple of times so there are some scratches. A full pro set up by me in progress but I spoiled the new high G string so that one is different." I know that I'm a clumsy git, so I try to avoid doing too much woodworking that could be loosely described as luthiery. I don't think MDP has quite attained my level of self-awareness yet.

Mike Dirnt of Green Day with a Squier Precision signature instrument?

@disssa, do you happen to have a schematic for the Vong-Filterung? Musikding said to email Julian from Schalltechnik, which I had already done, and still no response. I saw you'd built one a couple of years ago and I wondered if you might have the schematic.

Fender doesn't/don't think it should have an apostrophe, and nor do I. The corporation doesn't belong to the instruments.

Looking at the manual, I would say so, as it includes Command Center in the set of items that is controlled in a snapshot. I haven't any experience of doing it, nor any MIDI-controlled pedals, so that's the extent of my knowledge.

I use Elites DBE for my DBE headlesses, no problems.

I always use the passive input as my active basses have the same output level as my passive basses. How many active basses have outputs which are hugely greater than passives?

You could tie a bit of rag on each of the string ends, like on lorries with long loads. Looks really good.

Yes, good clean sound, a couple of useful features - built-in tuner, built-in 9V supply for pedals, and you can switch between LIVE and STUDIO modes which changes the fan switching (and which I forgot yesterday in the studio, although it didn't matter).

Plenty of 3D violins out there, eg https://www.printables.com/model/52210-the-jax-violin-5-string-6-string, but I'm not sure how viable a 3D printed fretless bass from the same materials would be.

Basically a lawn with frets then.

I've got a couple of oscilloscopes.

Fault - no output at all. LCD comes on and changes colour with the footswitch, so power is going in. Double checked all polarities - all correct. I'll extract the boards and do another visual inspection of the joints.

Musikding suggested I email Julian from Schalltechnik.

I wouldn't want to wear a matching dress with my bass stand.

Followed the instructions and... it doesn't work. Haven't got a schematic to trace the signal so I've emailed the creator to ask for one.

As it's a forward bow, the truss rod needs tightening, not loosening.

VVV along the top row, TBP along the bottom where P is piezo tone. https://www.ibanez.com/usa/products/detail/srf705_1p_06.html - map of controls is partway down. I had to do a fair bit of setting up when I got mine second-hand, including balancing up the piezos (easy). My EHB1265MS has had the Barts replaced by Aguilars which adds to the clarity, but I'm not sure it would be as good a mod on the fretless. Must have a listen to the crustacean.

I have encountered an issue. The grill is held on with clamps which have a quite large offset, so the grill will only be held on by them if the speaker is on the front of the panel rather than the rear. I'm getting a bit of a buzzy noise which I suspect is air going through the speaker screw holes. So should I put the speaker in its proper place at the rear of the baffle, and find some way of shimming the clamps, or should I just fill the holes? I realise that having the speaker on the front of the baffle has changed the volume, but will this have had a significant effect on the cab? Other than the buzz, it's sounding fine, powered by a Tecamp Puma 900. I would have used a Hotone 5W amp but it's been so long since I used any amps that I've lost track of my jack-Speakon lead.