tauzero

Along with my headless guitar what I bought from Thomann a few days ago, I bought a knob puller, in the hope that it would make removing my knobs simpler. This consists of a U-shaped part with jaws and a ring. You put the jaws on the knob [1], slide the ring down it, then pull the loop of the U-shaped bit to pull the knob off. [2] However, unless your knob is 25mm/1" in diameter, this is doomed to failure as the jaws won't clamp on. I tried rotating the ring (as can be seen from the picture, it's a deformed circle) and thought I had cracked it, but no. So if your knob has a flange (eg. Strat) or it's a big speed knob (eg. Les Paul), you should be OK, but if not, you're doomed to anti-climactic disappointment. [1] Linda Lovelace's job description [2] This is getting very Nigella

Guitar ordered from Thomann on the 10th, arrived yesterday. Small diecast box ordered from China on the 9th, arrived today.

I've tried playing left-handed. Not a chance. OTOH, a guitarist I used to play with was left-handed but learnt to play right-handed. For some reason, this niggled him, even though he'd been playing 20+ years and was very good. So eventually he bought a left-handed guitar and learnt to play it left-handed too.

Office chairs that don't have a swivelling arm-rest so I can move it out of the way when playing.

I have a few guitars, but they're either acoustic or Variaxes and I wanted a guitar I could just record stuff with without having to set up extra wiring, and ideally headless so I could do it in my tiny office when the muse hit me. So I bought a B-stock Harley-Benton Dullahan, the arch-top variant. Very light, nice and playable (although I might go down from the 10s that it comes with to 9s or 8s), and the five switch positions give a good variation of tone. I have no idea why it was a B-stock, it appears in perfect nick. Very pleased with it - all it needs are some Schaller strap-locks. Immediately behind it is yesterday's acquisition, and Ibanez EHB1265, and behind that is yet another Harley-Benton - this time a classical electro-acoustic.

The big selling point to me was the light weight (800W 12" combo, 9.5kg). I don't see that as a gimmick.

Oh I know, pictures or it didn't happen.

Well, yesterday to be strictly accurate. Went down to visit @lowregisterhead and have a little chat and a try of the instrument in question, then headed home. It's got a neck which I immediately got on with - I'm not sure what the best description of the profile is, if I say "oil tanker hull" then people may get the idea. Fan frets are fine, this is the first I've owned but I have played them in the past and knew they wouldn't be an issue. I'm a fan of headless basses too. This particular one has been updated with Aguilar pickups. The demos I've heard with the original Bartolinis didn't seem as clear and crisp as the Aguilars do. The annoying bloke with the lobster hand did the same upgrade on the base model EHB1005 which was a noticeable improvement. The preamp is very flexible with not just stacked bass and treble but also mid cut/boost and mid sweep, and playing with that showed it to be very effective. All in all, a very impressive instrument. Thanks to Dave for the hospitality and the bass.

There's 5-string Seis coming up now and again, both the Original/Flamboyant and the Jazz style. Well worth looking at.

That's it, it's curtains for you.

It's a bit irritating that they don't give an idea of the weight of whatever they'll be building. I assume it'll be heavier than CF but lighter than wood, but I could be wildly wrong.

Another Variax bass would be nice. I currently have a Variax 300, JTV59, 700 acoustic, and 705 bass. I'm sure there's more that Line 6 could do in the Variax line...

Line 6 Variax bass (second-hand). Models vintage Jazz, modern Jazz, Precision, Stingray, Flea bass, Rickenbacker, Danelectro, Hofner violin bass, Gibson Thunderbird & EB-2D, MTD 535, Warwick Thumb, Alembic, Steinberger, Hagstrom 8-string, Hamer 12-string, a couple of acoustics and a couple of synths.

Make bogroll with it. https://uk.whogivesacrap.org/ Very nice it is too.

What is the objective, and what is the issue that you are looking to correct?

B3n has more computing power, so you can have more effects in a chain. It also has a different way of patch switching so you don't have to do a tapdance to switch it and get back to stompbox mode. The B3 has an XLR out, the B3n just has two mono jacks. They're the same width but the B3n is a little taller and thicker.

Using a small angle grinder or a Dremel, take most of the length off the toggle, leaving just enough to be able to use a screwdriver or similar to operate the switch.

It's a bit different to a truss rod as the truss rod acts along its whole length to provide a bending pressure (forwards or backwards for a dual-action one), whereas this is more akin to a bowstring, which only provides a bending tension at each end of its run.

That reminds me, must start using my H2n at rehearsals with the new band...

He seems to have had Hendrix in his head but not his fingers.

I found this https://sawview.com/what-is-pva-glue/ which says it takes 24 hours to dry perfectly.

I'll be very interested to see how this turns out as I have a Hohner cricket bat with a bit of chipping around the bridge end corners. The fix that was mentioned to me (but I can't remember who by) was superglue and colouring, I think the PVA looks a good way to go.

Well, you do have to look for "chalkboard paint". Mind you, our blackboards at school (55 years ago) were green.

Just ha a quick go with three fingers. I've got hands which are a little larger than Donald Trump's but not that large - motorcycle gloves can be problematic, the width of my hand means I need to take a large as I can't get my hand into a medium but the fingers tend to be a little long on the large. Most things I tried just needed a small movement of the left hand, "Sunshine of your love" was easier with revised fingering so I wasn't going from fret 5 to fret 8 but to fret 3 on the next string.

Don't be silly, there's still floor space surely?