tauzero

Also there's this: I found that a dirt cheap Kokko power supply would also do the job. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154867350921 - can't cope with a Raspberry Pi 4 powered soft synth as well, though.

My GB-10 has now got an interesting feature. Plugged into USB port on PC, on startup I select "Storage" and the GB-10 goes into USB storage mode but the PC doesn't recognise it. Also, connecting it via a hub, it gives "System Err 50 - Please PWR OFF". Other than that, it works fine, and I can transfer files into the MUSIC folder to play them. Anyone else had anything similar?

This one is using @Phil Starr's original plans. I have very little faith in my own ability to use power saws accurately (see later) so I found a place that would supply cut panels and got the panels from there. After getting panels, battens, speaker, connector plate, and speakons, the first thing to do was mark up all the panels for drilling. I wanted to screw and glue everything, so marked up lines to screw into the centre line of the battens and the centre line of the side panels and drilled 3mm holes. That was a few days ago. Then I got the screws and the glue arrived, so today was the next stage. Both sides battened up. Then the top (part battened in this photo): And with the bottom also done, I glued and screwed the sides to the bottom (seen inverter here): The mitre clamps aren't exactly up to professional standards, but they were four for a fiver or so off Ebay (rather than four or five quid each) and they did the job. I also cut the hole for the connector plate and for the port, and the hole for the speaker (which was a little wobbly but OK). Last job today was gluing the port in place. I was going to use grill cloth but after seeing @Pea Turgh's build, I've decided that the circular speaker grills look OK and it'll be simpler to work with, so one of those is about to be ordered. Given the absence of a router at Zero Towers, plus my complete lack of experience at handling said beast, I think rounding over is going to be by means of a sander. Front and rear panels will be getting blackchalkboard paint and I shall probably be wrapping the main body - I have an idea but I shan't reveal it yet. Current plan of action is to finish box assembly tomorrow and do the painting and covering in the week.

That 2.3A looks well over the top - how can the converter survive dissipating that much power, assuming it has to be dissipated? I know it's just 4W or so but these aren't big components. My approach has been that I'm going to be running a wired connection from the pedalboard to the amp, and a mains connection to the amp, so I'm happy to run a mains wall-wart to a DC extension cable which I cable-tie to the jack-jack lead from pedalboard to amp and feed that into the power supply. Not sure about that C3 Mate, you seem to lose a load of pins and the Bluetooth/BLE side of things compared to the WROOM or others which are £6-£6-50. It is an instant IWOOT but a little consideration is justified before buying it (says the man with three RP2040s, one of which seems to have disappeared).

I imagine that the brass section with the recess for the string ball end has an external thread and the knurled knob has an internal thread. It would need stringing up by putting the ballend in the brass bit and unscrewing the knob as far as it goes, then threading the other end of the string through the unheadstock clamp, pulling it tight, and clamping it, then screwing the knob in to tension the string - the brass insert looks like it has a hex cross-section so won't rotate (much). Looks as if it would sort of work, but destringing and restringing with the same strings might not work too well.

My pedalboard is intended to hold HX Stomp, expression pedal, 6-button MIDI controller, Line 6 G50 wireless receiver, mini mixer, and Fluidpatcher (successor to Squishbox) with a McMillen 12-step to control it, and a power supply of some sort. However, I'm no longer with the bands I was going to use it with, and I hadn't quite sorted out the power supply (HX Stomp and a Raspberry Pi 4 suck up a fair bit of power between them) - I've got a few buck converters which I was going to string together and run from a 12V laptop power supply, must get round to trying that sometime.

I recently put a Zynthian together and also have another Pi 4 powered softsynth playing SF2 via Fluidsynth - https://github.com/albedozero/fluidpatcher but I've modified mine to use a 20x4 character display. The approach I've taken to powering ESP32 and Raspberry Pi things is to just use a 9V 5.5/2.1 DC socket with a bridge rectifier to avoid embarrassing reverse polarity catastrophe and buck converters set to 5V running to Vin. For Arduinos I also use a bridge rectifier but I just put the 7.5V from the bridge rectifier into Vin. That means not using any USB connectors for powering devices (Zynthian is an exception to this, but I had no say about the means of powering it - a headless Zynthian I've made, if I bother boxing it up, will be 9V powered). Looking back at the pictures of your mockup, I see Squishbox is in there so you may already have got to Fluidpatcher, it supersedes Squishbox.

I think the current draw of an HX Stomp is around 1A @9V, so just running off a 10000 mAh 5V USB bank should give about 5 hours of use. Step-up voltage regulators seem pretty cheap and you'd only need a 2A capable one. I've only used step-downs so far. One thing I do prefer is fixed voltage ones rather than adjusting the voltage with a pot, which is probably a silly preference. Have you any plans to publish the plans and software? Incidentally, I do love the ESP32 but I feel guilty about not using all its capabilities. I built a footswitch for page turning (and line up/down) using an ESP32 for BLE, and it's a pretty simple little thing.

That's excellent.

Colin Chapman's approach would be that if it survived long enough to do an encore, it was too heavy. I take it you'll be starting with a headless cricket bat, as that gets rid of a load of unnecessary weight.

Having just bought a MOD Duo, I thought I'd look again at DIY options for MIDI switching, and came across this in the MOD forum: https://github.com/alf45tar/PedalinoMini As I've got everything but the screen to build the breadboard version knocking around in my parts containers [1], I have some screens on the way and will start putting it together. Further reports when I've got somewhere. [1] I recommend takeaway Chinese food containers, the plastic sort, or ice cream tubs for the bigger things.

Me too (but with 5 strings).

Because you want the 900?

I'm not a fan of relicing either, but there's some which aren't so much relics as stolen recovered insurance write-offs.

It's 500W as a combo, 800W with an extension cab. I worry about calcium as a material, at least the calcium that's supporting my body.

And it's another dezombification - just bought a Duo and am now waiting for it with bated breath.

Oh, and another thing - as somebody with type 2 diabetes, I feel there should have been a health warning before the programme, for all the sickeningly sugary compliments being paid to Her Maj at every artist changeover. Had to O/D on metformin to bring my blood sugar back down.

Pink Floyd - Another Brick in the Wall part whichever - "no dark star chasm in the classroom"

I would think that a response along the lines of Arkell v Pressdram would be appropriate. For the poor benighted souls who don't read Private Eye: https://lettersofnote.com/2013/08/07/arkell-v-pressdram/

Veering slightly from the subject - Rod Stewart was shockingly bad. Don't they check out the acts before booking them in?

GR Bass AT Cube 800. https://www.grbass.com/portfolio/at-cube-800/

As long as their car has adequate suspension.

Well, it won't sound any worse than any other Trace.

By the time that an amp, cab, bass, or guitar has become so well established that modelling it is worthwhile, it should have recouped the R&D costs several times over. Also, there's plenty of people who can tell (or at least think they can tell) digital modelling, so they'll want the Real Thing.

The lightest rig I have had is the current one, a 500W combo (800W with extension speaker) weighing under 10kg. The heaviest rig I have had was a Trace Elliot 4x10 combo weighing as much as a small neutron star. I had to carry it up a huge flight of stairs at the first gig I did with it. It didn't last long with me. For flexibility, I'd go with separate amp and cab. For convenience, a combo. If you've got enough volume and the sound you want with the current combo and you don't mind the weight, there doesn't seem any point changing.