tauzero

Were the bands on the resistor the wrong colours?

My main gigging bass was a 5-string fretless Sei. My backup bass was a fretted Hohner B2AV. I occasionally swapped to it for a song or two. It is a very portable bass as it's so compact (not as compact as a folding bass).

You could always use one of these then (maybe): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-T100-T120-Primary-Chain-Adjuster-Tool-/391466811760

IIRC, you can't get at vintage P bass truss rod adjusters without taking the neck off, no matter what tool you have.

An F Bass VF-5 PJ. Just because I'd like to see what the neck that Scott Devine thinks is the most comfortable he's ever played is actually like. Change of mind - Bass Lab double necked 5-string headless fretted and fretless.

Just did an image search for "cort b4 schematic" - I use DuckDuckGo but Google should get the same. I think that the list in the top left corners is the list of instruments that it's applicable to.

It seems odd that it's a B250 as that's a linear pot, so not very good for volume control (the sensitivity of the ear has a logarithmic response). Although the schematic for the B4 shows it as a B500: Unless this is one of the revamped B4s (Element?) in which case looking at Bartolini's circuit diagrams might be more useful.

Quite a haul. Congratulations!

Last January, I said I'd make an exception for an Ibanez SRF705, and last March I got one ridiculously cheap, so let's see if history will repeat itself.

I was out in March, after buying an Ibanez SRF705, which was the bass I said I'd make an exception for. Although I also bought an Ibanez EHB1265, and a Batking bass uke, just to make sure my defeat was a proud one.

Everybody should have a 5-string, if only so I can decide whether to buy it or not when the purchaser decides that five strings wasn't for them/Jaco didn't need five strings.

It's obviously the wrong way.

The immaculate brushwork and superb placement of the ashtray can be seen to its full effect in picture 6: It's nice to see that somebody else can match my luthierie skills.

There seems to be one minor issue with me getting one (that's apart from the fact they've got a big backlog, about 3 months): Can you see what it is yet? Ooops, shouldn't quote Rolf Harris.

What about in three and a half years?

The fret one uses depends on which Imperial unit you measure in. For furlongs, it's fret 8, for feet it's fret 12, for pounds it's fret 14, and for ounces fret 16. I would advise avoiding fathoms at fret 6 and shillings at fret 20. Personally, I also use the drop 'em till they buzz then go back up a little bit, after having set up the relief.

The mini-toggle would be a bit loose in the hole, which was why I thought of the rotary. A mini-toggle goes in a 5mm hole, a guitar pot hole is 7mm. You might need a largeish washer to make sure it's snug. Just look for "toggle switch dpdt centre off" on Ebay, there's quite a few - some 3-ways will be centre on so be sure to get the right one.

How about replacing the bass pot with stacked treble/bass and getting a rotary 3-way switch with which you could have all three of the options on the last page of the Bartolini instructions?

I would have thought you'd be able to fit the tuners onto the body if using Guykers - they might overhang a bit though. From front to rear fixing screw hole is 45.5mm.

I think you'd have to wait until you'd got the fingerboard off before working out the length of truss rod you'd need. I would guess at 460mm - https://www.blackdogmusic.co.uk/product/double-action-truss-rod-360mm400mm420mm-440mm-460mm-or-620mm/ has a variety of lengths (not many of which are ins tock).

The frets would correspond if the bridge saddles stayed in the same place. Assuming you did the chop at fret 3, that would become fret zero or the nut, and fret 15 would become the octave fret. Easy to confirm that that's the case by measuring fret 3 to fret 15 and fret 15 to the bridge, which would be the same, or putting a capo on fret 3 and checking the octave harmonic is at fret 15.

... prices seem to have headed upwards. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275592988998 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285000056156 The far less desirable headed ones seem to be cheaper.

I wouldn't want to slide my fingers along that, it looks like shellgrip. I'm sure it's actually nice and smooth, but in my mind my fingertips would be gouged to the bone.

Is there a compelling reason not to use a mini toggle?

That and the Ocean Inlet one both look interesting.