tauzero

That looks lovely.

Some day I'll get round to replacing the strap buttons on my Hohner cricket bat with straplocks - I intend to move the neck strap peg to the top leading edge of the body, a mod that I have seen done somewhere. @FlatEric has a bass with a strap button in the corresponding position:

Wouldn't the display give some indication if the power supply cut out? The symptoms in the first paragraph don't seem to be those of an intermittent PSU, not if OP is switching between tuner mode and patch mode.

Surely it's the bending moment which is significant, and the strings are offset from the centre line of the neck by a greater amount than the truss cable, hence the tension in the truss cable would need to be higher than that in the strings in order to create an identical bending moment.

Surely you'll be getting another bottle of port extender, so you can experiment with securing the current one to the current cab.

Regardless of the ludicrous pricing, the seller does provide plenty of detailed photographs [1] and information on defects, albeit estate agency might be an alternative career. Anyone buying something from him/her is not being hoodwinked, simply delusional. [1] For us to laugh at

I would guess at Being willing to help carry kit in and out Doing homework - not coming to rehearsals unprepared Sociable which don't just apply to bassists.

That looks much more like the body shape than the other one - the horns are far too fat on the other Jupiters, the body in the OP's picture looks more like an SGC Nanyo (it isn't as it's the wrong headstock) and it seems to have a large and a small soapbar.

Couldn't you just try swapping necks with one of your other Ps?

I think you'd be best off filling that crevice in to avoid hissing or other intrusive noises - I'm no expert but I think you'd want something that will stick firmly and fill gaps, like wood filler or epoxy resin. From what I recall of wood glues, some are happy to fill gaps and others are rather poor at the job.

Given the other two, are you sure the first one shouldn't be "reacharound"?

I feel that drummers (and other band members) at my time in life (50+, let's say) should have become competent, so I should only have to consider their temperament, reliability, and equipment. I frequently find out that I was wrong about the competence.

Perhaps they've been using Bass Direct's imperial/metric converter. Or maybe they're giving the size of the footprint rather than the actual width.

There used to be a loudness button on many a hi-fi amp (may still be, I don't seem to have any on mine). What that did was raise the bass and treble levels to make the perceived frequency response flat. There's a good summary of it here: https://www.extron.com/article/loudnesscontrol_ts. That would be just the thing for a home practice button.

Unless your other bass is a Warwick or a Sei 🙂

I'm a bit concerned by that gunge on the screwdriver. Have you tested for Covid?

I had one as my first proper bass. It was when Hayman had gone bust and there was a fire at the Fender Soundhouse, and they were clearing out Hayman parts. I intended to build a twin neck bass & guitar but some of the parts didn't fit, so finished up with a 40/40 bass. A few years later, under the misguided impression that Fenders were the bass to have, I traded it in against a Precision.

Thomas Eich. Helpful with my old Tech Soundsystems NS410, then gave me advice on fitting a fan to my Tecamp Puma 900.

I never fail to be impressed by the profundity of Lip up, fatty, ah, lip up, fatty, for the reggae Lip up, fatty, ah, lip up, fatty, for the reggae Listen to the music, shuffle up your feet Listen to the music of the fatty beat

Did you recreate the MUSIC folder or just copy the test file into root?

I don't know about fantastic - I do like it. Not enough to give it a home though.

Some time ago, someone on here recommended the Audio Technica ATH-M20X. I bought a pair and found them comfortable and with good quality sound, for a mere £50.

Zoom B3, Zoom B3n, Zoom MS-60B, Tanglewood something, Korg CA2, Tascam GB-10, MOD Dwarf, Line 6 HX Stomp. I've tuned basses with all of them, and more, without problems. The point being that if you have a multifx with a tuner, you shouldn't need to take a separate tuner too. I do occasionally think of getting a Strobostomp for setting up intonation. So far I've got away with playing the 12th fret harmonic and comparing it with the fretted octave.

With a drill and a soldering iron, you could knock your own up. One DPDT footswitch to switch between the two inputs, a second footswitch to switch on and off.