tauzero

There's far too much overthinking going on for my original question. Put it like this: a box contains a completely unidentified bass which is to perform a completely unidentified function which will fall within its capabilities. You are not buying it[1]. If someone said to you "the bass in there is £x", how much would x have to be for you to think it was an expensive bass? [1] But you could make me an offer.

It doesn't really put a new perspective on it. If I was in that situation, I'd buy the Hooky but I would regard it as an expensive bass (my threshold being £1000). I have several basses that cost me over £1k but none that cost me over £2k, and the ones that cost me over £1k I regard as expensive. Just because a bass comes over the "expensive" threshold doesn't mean I won't buy it, although I do have a nebulous "too f*cking expensive" threshold that's somewhere round £3k beyond which I almost certainly wouldn't pay that for a bass.

Is the amp new?

Rat Charles

Do you have to remove the rim from the grill first? It's going to somewhat constrain the flattening if you don't, isn't it?

Well, you never know... I thought I'd have a look at a Vintera Bass VI and see if that inspired me, and it did occur to me that it would be the right size to put over the retaining nuts for the pots so that when you put the knobs on, they'd be spaced a card thickness away from the control plate so they'd be a consistent height and have adequate clearance.

I'm happy to take expensive basses (or what I consider expensive) out to just about anywhere. I just happen to have some basses that I categorise as expensive and others that I don't.

I've seen quite a few times people saying that they wouldn't want to take an expensive bass to the Dog & Trumpet, but what is an expensive bass? I've got several basses that I class as expensive basses, but maybe my idea of expensive is calibrated differently to other people. To me, the threshold is £1000, which may just be an indicator that I'm rather old and my Warwick Thumb cost me £900 in 1988, and that was bloody expensive. I think most of us would agree that a Fodera Yin Yang at £7kish is expensive. But where does everyone else place that marker? This isn't about what you get for the money, or any sentimental value, it's purely a monetary thing. What is the minimum price for a bass to be considered expensive?

It should. Also, you could get to answer 1a) by using something like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303990422806 - step down buck converter to a USB output, or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176692251941 with solder pad outputs, or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/397239175045 which is cheaper but uses a 12V input (which you happen to have).

1. Yes. 1a. Why not use a USB PSU? 5V is much closer to 4.5V than 9V is. 2. If you're going to be cutting the wires, mark one of them with a sharpie both sides of the cut BEFORE cutting, then after cutting determine the polarity using your multimeter. However, as the LEDs are diodes, they should be fine with reversed polarity.

Looks like it's 14mm across flats - were you making a spanner for the tuners?

Glad to hear it. My second-hand Space 5 had a strange pickup issue - when I picked it up, I only tested it with the blend knob at each end of its travel rather than in the middle. When I got it home, I found the B, E, and A strings were out of phase but the D and G strings weren't. Replaced the MK1s with MK5CBCs and all was well. So maybe there's also a bit of a QC problem with pickups.

Especially if the turd polishing will start with a decapitation.

For you TE hunters, there's a 2x10 and a 1x15 on FB now in Northampton, £90 each. And the 1x15 has got wheels (but possibly not the original driver), and both have had the XLRs replaced by Speakons. UK Music Gear Exchange group.

Did she? I've seen here with little else than Fenders (mainly J but the odd P).

A height gauge for mice?

Looks really good. I trust that the dislocated fingers weren't linked to the construction. As for valuing it, I have no idea. One-offs get valued at all sorts of prices, including the totally delusional. I would guess at a bit more than an intact headed T24, it's going to depend on how much someone wants a headless.

You can have a fliptop battery holder rather than having to undo screws to get to the battery. I know that Warwicks after around 1990 had a clip-on rear cavity cover but that's a bit of a faff. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256081542485

Here comes the question which I'm sure you'll have anticipated - isn't the wireless connection good enough, or is there some other reason for not using it?

It's a good opportunity to move over to fingerstyle! Sounds like you've had a good latter part of the year. It also sounds like there isn't going to be an advert in Basses for sale saying "Just don't get on with five strings".

Quite a busy night for me last night, finished up bassing for about half the acts on. Some songs I knew, some I'd done before and had written the chords down for, some I could read the chords over the guitarist's shoulder, and a couple I just had to wing (but one was four chords and the other was two). I'd been using the TC BAM200 and homebuilt Plenty cab, but last time when the guitars got a bit loud and I turned the BAM200 up to match them it started sounding a bit shouty (for want of a better description) so I decided to use the Tecamp Puma 900 instead and it was much better sounding.

I had to look very closely at my Space 5 to see that the top wasn't a single piece of wood. There's about 5cm between the pickups where there's a slight difference in shade between the two sides. If GG said they were inspecting it, and presuming that the mismatched top was explicitly stated as unacceptable on the first instrument, then it seems like a very good case for returning it and expecting the shipping cost to be covered. Or ask them for £200 off the price and put veneer on the top, thus making an attractive and unique instrument.

Then I remembered that tucked away in a cupboard I had a Wilkinson bridge 4-to-5 string conversion. Dug it out and it's a J neck so 38mm and I can cope with it - a 42mm nut should be fine.

Some time in the 80s, I was offered one for £75. I had a play on it, hated it, and passed on it. That could have been my pension.