tauzero

Don't be silly, there's still floor space surely?

Is that the Woodies hanger, and is there a bracket on each of the three strap pegs? I've got eight headed basses hanging up but no way to hold the headlesseseses. Incidentally, three of the hanging ones are Warwick Thumbs, one of them being a 5, so Hercules hangers pass the strength test. Dammit, should have read to the end...

Although part 3 of the Hawaiian guitar build features something similar and can be found in https://vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=80378.

You're certainly embracing the DIY ethos for your basses. You could have a look at https://www.electricherald.com/pickup-winding-guide-part-i-approach/. I'm sure I've seen something about DIY pickups that was a practical guide but I can't remember where (although ISTR it was quite frustrating due to the tendency to break the wire). If you happen to have a few 45 year old copies of Everyday Electronics hanging around, there was a DIY guitar in that for which there were directions on winding the pickups (which were incredibly low impedance). Aha, this Usenet thread points the way: https://groups.google.com/g/uk.d-i-y/c/wvkqLMGZ1Ow?pli=1 except that the articles on vintage-radio.net aren't there.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324706979045 ? Or is the threaded part too short?

"Bass players have always been more open than six-string players." Bwahahahahahahahaha. "I've gone back to a P", "You can't beat a P with flats", "All you need is a P". 50% of bass players are more open than six-string players, the others are far less.

I've sold both of mine (a One10 and a BB2) but that's not because I was unhappy with them. I found the One10 couldn't get up to the volume I needed to gig (and I wasn't competing with anything really loud) and didn't have any other use for it after the band I was using it for in rehearsals went to headphones, and although the BB2 is pretty light, I went even lighter with a GR Bass combo.

I sold my BF BB2 recently as I was going even more lightweight, but I was happily using that with a 5-string and a Tecamp Puma 900, which I think is the same as the Eich 900. Plenty of volume, good sound (as you will realise from your own BF experience), and a second-hand one should be in budget.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bulgaria_in_the_Eurovision_Song_Contest You'd better move to the Orient, Africa, or the Americas, they seem fairly safe.

Second-hand Tecamp Puma 500 or 900.

I know what you mean. I play only what self-identify as notes on the fretless.

There is indeed an Android Wifi analyser which I use, called Wifi Analyzer. There's another two as well and it look like I use the worst scoring one (it was the only one when I installed it years ago).

Presumably the screw/bolt [1] ends rotate freely in the string end holders but are fixed so they can't move forwards or back, and the holes in the carrier are threaded, so the blocks will move backwards and forwards but the ends of the screws won't go into the holes that hold the string ends. [1] Please $DEITY let us not have a repeat of the screw/bolt debate

I don't see the problem. Ivory comes from critically endangered elephants, bone for nuts comes from anything with a big enough internal skeleton - generally cows (not currently endangered), so maybe it would be an issue in Hindu countries.

I've just watched this - it's an interesting build, finishing up with an intriguing and quite attractive (except it's not headless), not to mention good sounding, instrument. It seems a bit on the thick side at 2.5"/6.2cm, so probably a bit heavy. I would guess at a P-width but J-depth neck, from what I could see of it and the male bassist who was playing it at the end (and seemed genuinely impressed).

So presumably as you have a 5-string, you don't have a problem with needing drop tuning? Just sell the 4-strings and go to 5-string for everything.

Conventionally, the dots on unlined are on the fret positions and the dots on lined are between the unfrets. I had my Sei lined fretless re-dotted so the dots are on the unfrets.

Coincidentally, that's also the weight (if you're using medieval measurements).

Schaller seems to have improved one part while making the other part worse. The old locking bit had a single non-locking nut holding the lock bit to the strap. The new locking bit has a circular nut that can be tightened by threading an allen key through a hole drilled at a chord through the nut, and then secured by tightening a grub screw (possibly with the same allen key). So that's an improvement. The new buttons, as has been said a few times, have a fixed screw which reduces their flexibility. Boston do a truly compatible straplock which used to have two nuts on each lock, so the second nut would lock the first in place, but I think now has only one. I don't think any of the Challers/Chostons that I've bought have turned out to be compatible with the real thing.

There are two power settings for the transmitter. If it's in power save mode, the signal won't be as strong. Press SELECT for two seconds to go into setup, then press it again to go to page 2, and use VALUE to toggle between Hi and Lo. Of course, if it's already on Hi, that wasn't the issue. Press SELECT two or three more times to get out of setup.

I never knew Othello played guitar.

He's got no idea how to use commas, has he?

It's a way of determining how committed the drummer is to the band.

If it was wound on the tuner the right way, it would be a lot better.

Those of us who favour neck-through basses do not have this avenue.