tauzero

I did. They didn't. Mrs Zero and I were in a prog covers band that never quite got to gigging. There were a few songs that I'd really have loved to have done live - Nights in white satin, Back street luv, Don't fear the reaper, Sylvia, I know what I like in your wardrobe.

"What song is it you wanna hear?"

Ashbory, Korg Volca bass (now replaced by a Squishbox/Fluidpatcher).

At a recent open mic night that I played at, there was a bassist with a Dingwall wonky fret 5er who later told me that he had a Markbass rig and something smaller for other gigs. Playing through my amp and cab, his tone was fine. However, his success rate at "right notes" was somewhere around 70-80%, and a charitable estimate of his success rate at "right timing" was 25-30%. If the intention for "right feel" was p1ssed, he was spot on. At another open mic night, the guest house bassist played on a few songs he was obviously unfamiliar with and hit various bum notes (having been a house band bassist myself, I can completely sympathise). However, his timing was spot on, and consequently they were a lot less intrusive than if they'd been mistimed too.

Perfect for a Steely Dan tribute band.

I was thinking about it, but a 6 hour round trip isn't that great a prospect.

I prefer natural, but the only bass I have which isn't natural finish is a three-tone sunburst Variax which I like the look of.

Did you tell them it was fretless or did they notice themselves? The covers band I'm with, that I told I played fretless when I started, noticed that I played fretless after a year.

And if they send me a phaser instead, do I get a tenner refund?

Don't tell me the log's in trouble again. What a waste of Tim.

If the two amps are 15m apart, there'll be a 50mS delay in the sound travelling each way. So you'll hear them 50mS late and they'll hear you 50mS late, and the result will be that you both slow down to get in time with the other one, which will never happen. It doesn't seem to serve any porpoise. Are you playing mullet rock?

Remember: the first rule of Dunning-Kruger Club is you don't know you're in Dunning-Kruger Club.

I realise that descending to factual solutions is disapproved of, but I felt that desperate times call for desperate measures. So I messaged the seller. Me: Is it an Ergo instrument? Seller: Yes, it is. Case closed without having to play rock paper scissors lizard Spock.

This was my Ergo EUB. I'm pretty sure it is an Ergo.

When you say it doesn't recognise the web site for the GUI, does it mean you have to put in something like modduo.local as the URL? If so, try finding the IP address instead and use that.

It looks like it's fretted in the way that medieval instruments were fretted, by wrapping gut or string round the neck. I recognise the maker - it's an Ergo bass. I had a 5-string Ergo EUB - sold it as I couldn't cope with 5 strings and 41" scale (I can do one or the other, not both).

I think that's why I prefer unlined - you're not driven as much by your eyes.

MS Comic Sans, to appeal to the feeble-minded.

Whoever made it seems to have been slightly more careful with the individual bridge piece placement than with drilling the through-body holes. Quite attractive though, apart from the headstock.

Bugger, forgot about this in the rush of getting both bikes MOTed today. As the MOTs expire in the week and I'll be using them, it was rather a priority.

https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/78585-diy-effects/?do=findComment&comment=4459224

I've been experimenting with power supplies for the pedalboard which is to feature the Stomp plus a Raspberry Pi-powered soft synth module. Both of them are quite hefty current draws. I bought https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193853851917 and modified a daisy-chain lead to have a 5.5/2.5mm plug. Turned out I didn't need to daisy-chain the power supply end to increase the current capacity, just run it off one of the 500mA outputs, and the other 500mA output was enough to power the soft synth. I've only tested this briefly, I want to do a soak test for two or three hours to make sure nothing gets too hot or stops working.

What would be handy would be to have the PDF of the cab components and JPG of the crossover attached to the first post, plus details of the drivers and the port, and a pointer to page 5 as the start point for the build guide. Plus a link to cheap sources of replacement Workmates and/or dining chairs.