tauzero

MOD Devices have re-emerged as MOD Audio, and they've just released v1.12 of their software across the three devices (Duo, Duo X, Dwarf). That should be of interest to at least two other people on here.

I've got two Ibanezezez, an SRF705 which uses a barrel jack and an EHB which uses a locking socket (which I plan to de-lock). The barrel jack on the SRF705 is playing up. I had a look at the guts of it, and it looks like the wood is sufficiently thin and there's enough area around the socket to be able to put a skeleton socket in instead. So that's one project for the near future.

Doesn't seem at all upset and embarrassed as they only paid about £50 for it. But they did engage with the posters to the other place, unlike here.

Just experimenting with the Retro Reel modulation effect on the HX Stomp, which seems to do quite a nice job.

Take the finish off and see what the body's like. Go for natural if you can, otherwise paint it.

Didn't Ashley Pangborns have triangular headstocks, rather like SGC Nanyo but a bit more spearhead?

Due to theft?

You don't want to believe everything that Noam Chomsky says.

I think the idea is that you hammer on a note, pull the string across into the groove slot, and pull off, all as rapidly as possible, so that it makes a brief note sort of sound, like a dink, then a sort of clack at a slightly different pitch then a donk at the final pitch. So if your playing consists entirely of dink-clack-donk then this is the invention for you.

You, er, like big knobs, don't you?

Replace it at the earliest opportunity. Unless, of course, a room in your house has become unusable due to it, in which case you may need the services of a plumber.

I'm not much cop as a guitarist, but I would find that incredibly restrictive if I could only bend notes less than halfway to the next string. My normal vibrato would get me right to the edge. The only purpose I can see for it is to play those pull-offs which sound like somebody who can't fret a string properly slipping off the edge of the fretboard, and if you actually wanted to reproduce that sound, it would be far simpler not to fret the string properly and to push it off the edge of the fretboard.

Anyroadup, I suspect that the psychology behind collecting instruments is a variant of kleptomania and compulsive buying disorder, where there's a compulsion to expand the collection but it remains within the bounds of honesty. But are you a hoarder or a collector? We have one room that's unusable, but that's because we're waiting for a chance to clear it out (and it's not due to the basses, and only partly because of motorcycle gear), so I am apparently a collector: https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/blog/dirty-secret/201012/what-is-the-difference-between-compulsive-hoarding-and-collecting

I bought my car second-hand for £6k. The only times I have made money from using it have been when I was carrying a bass in it. It isn't used to earn my salary (which is more than £6k a year). Your logic is seriously faulty. But I'm not going to embark on a TimR argument, it's like nailing jelly to the ceiling.

It's often due to a bidding war. Two people both fancy the same thing, one puts in a bid, the other beats it, and then the frenzy starts where neither of them will allow the other to win it. The sense of competition outweighs rational thought.

Mmmmm, chips...

If you've got a skeleton jack, it can always be reinvigorated simply by bending the contacts a little - something that is not part of the design brief for a barrel jack. However, a skeleton jack needs either mounting on a plate with a big hole under it, mounting on a scratchplate, or a very thin bit of wood where it comes out, so basses like Warwicks need surgery to fit one.

It's a negative temperature coefficient thermistor - there's a data sheet at https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/1132203/VATRONICS/NTC10D-15.html that tells you about the numbering system. The 10D-11 handles 3A, the 10D-15 5A, and in the middle the 10D-13 copes with 4A. I'm not sure what the implications of the lower resistance of the higher power handling versions is. CPC Farnell do thermistors - https://cpc.farnell.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?st=thermistor&catalogId=15002&showResults=true&pageSize=25&storeId=10180&langId=[Ljava.lang.String%3B%403c322563&categoryId=700000067503 You'd want an NTC thermistor, 10R, that will handle at least 3A and preferably more, for example https://cpc.farnell.com/epcos/b57237s100m/thermistor-ntc-10r-3-7a/dp/RE04727?st=thermistor or https://cpc.farnell.com/epcos/b57238s100m/thermistor-ntc-10r-5a/dp/RE04735?st=thermistor

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374164049337 perhaps? No nasty chemicals, just don't look into the laser with remaining eye.

Oooh, touchy.

If you're not going to give a link, at least spell the name correctly. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175438237511 RoXonix. You're welcome.

Eggsactly.

I think I've just bought the one.

Which variant are you talking about? I've got two GB10s, which both work fine except that for some reason the USB transfer doesn't seem to work on one of them. I can always just do a physical copy to the card if necessary. Pitch shift and slowdown work fine.