tauzero

That 2.3A looks well over the top - how can the converter survive dissipating that much power, assuming it has to be dissipated? I know it's just 4W or so but these aren't big components. My approach has been that I'm going to be running a wired connection from the pedalboard to the amp, and a mains connection to the amp, so I'm happy to run a mains wall-wart to a DC extension cable which I cable-tie to the jack-jack lead from pedalboard to amp and feed that into the power supply. Not sure about that C3 Mate, you seem to lose a load of pins and the Bluetooth/BLE side of things compared to the WROOM or others which are £6-£6-50. It is an instant IWOOT but a little consideration is justified before buying it (says the man with three RP2040s, one of which seems to have disappeared).

I imagine that the brass section with the recess for the string ball end has an external thread and the knurled knob has an internal thread. It would need stringing up by putting the ballend in the brass bit and unscrewing the knob as far as it goes, then threading the other end of the string through the unheadstock clamp, pulling it tight, and clamping it, then screwing the knob in to tension the string - the brass insert looks like it has a hex cross-section so won't rotate (much). Looks as if it would sort of work, but destringing and restringing with the same strings might not work too well.

My pedalboard is intended to hold HX Stomp, expression pedal, 6-button MIDI controller, Line 6 G50 wireless receiver, mini mixer, and Fluidpatcher (successor to Squishbox) with a McMillen 12-step to control it, and a power supply of some sort. However, I'm no longer with the bands I was going to use it with, and I hadn't quite sorted out the power supply (HX Stomp and a Raspberry Pi 4 suck up a fair bit of power between them) - I've got a few buck converters which I was going to string together and run from a 12V laptop power supply, must get round to trying that sometime.

I recently put a Zynthian together and also have another Pi 4 powered softsynth playing SF2 via Fluidsynth - https://github.com/albedozero/fluidpatcher but I've modified mine to use a 20x4 character display. The approach I've taken to powering ESP32 and Raspberry Pi things is to just use a 9V 5.5/2.1 DC socket with a bridge rectifier to avoid embarrassing reverse polarity catastrophe and buck converters set to 5V running to Vin. For Arduinos I also use a bridge rectifier but I just put the 7.5V from the bridge rectifier into Vin. That means not using any USB connectors for powering devices (Zynthian is an exception to this, but I had no say about the means of powering it - a headless Zynthian I've made, if I bother boxing it up, will be 9V powered). Looking back at the pictures of your mockup, I see Squishbox is in there so you may already have got to Fluidpatcher, it supersedes Squishbox.

I think the current draw of an HX Stomp is around 1A @9V, so just running off a 10000 mAh 5V USB bank should give about 5 hours of use. Step-up voltage regulators seem pretty cheap and you'd only need a 2A capable one. I've only used step-downs so far. One thing I do prefer is fixed voltage ones rather than adjusting the voltage with a pot, which is probably a silly preference. Have you any plans to publish the plans and software? Incidentally, I do love the ESP32 but I feel guilty about not using all its capabilities. I built a footswitch for page turning (and line up/down) using an ESP32 for BLE, and it's a pretty simple little thing.

That's excellent.

Colin Chapman's approach would be that if it survived long enough to do an encore, it was too heavy. I take it you'll be starting with a headless cricket bat, as that gets rid of a load of unnecessary weight.

Having just bought a MOD Duo, I thought I'd look again at DIY options for MIDI switching, and came across this in the MOD forum: https://github.com/alf45tar/PedalinoMini As I've got everything but the screen to build the breadboard version knocking around in my parts containers [1], I have some screens on the way and will start putting it together. Further reports when I've got somewhere. [1] I recommend takeaway Chinese food containers, the plastic sort, or ice cream tubs for the bigger things.

Me too (but with 5 strings).

Because you want the 900?

I'm not a fan of relicing either, but there's some which aren't so much relics as stolen recovered insurance write-offs.

It's 500W as a combo, 800W with an extension cab. I worry about calcium as a material, at least the calcium that's supporting my body.

And it's another dezombification - just bought a Duo and am now waiting for it with bated breath.

Oh, and another thing - as somebody with type 2 diabetes, I feel there should have been a health warning before the programme, for all the sickeningly sugary compliments being paid to Her Maj at every artist changeover. Had to O/D on metformin to bring my blood sugar back down.

Pink Floyd - Another Brick in the Wall part whichever - "no dark star chasm in the classroom"

I would think that a response along the lines of Arkell v Pressdram would be appropriate. For the poor benighted souls who don't read Private Eye: https://lettersofnote.com/2013/08/07/arkell-v-pressdram/

Veering slightly from the subject - Rod Stewart was shockingly bad. Don't they check out the acts before booking them in?

GR Bass AT Cube 800. https://www.grbass.com/portfolio/at-cube-800/

As long as their car has adequate suspension.

Well, it won't sound any worse than any other Trace.

By the time that an amp, cab, bass, or guitar has become so well established that modelling it is worthwhile, it should have recouped the R&D costs several times over. Also, there's plenty of people who can tell (or at least think they can tell) digital modelling, so they'll want the Real Thing.

The lightest rig I have had is the current one, a 500W combo (800W with extension speaker) weighing under 10kg. The heaviest rig I have had was a Trace Elliot 4x10 combo weighing as much as a small neutron star. I had to carry it up a huge flight of stairs at the first gig I did with it. It didn't last long with me. For flexibility, I'd go with separate amp and cab. For convenience, a combo. If you've got enough volume and the sound you want with the current combo and you don't mind the weight, there doesn't seem any point changing.

Early Puma 900 don't have a fan. I did modify mine with Thomas Eich's guidance, the (tiny) fan is near as dammit silent. Not sure that I actually needed it as it turned out.

I assume it's like the one at https://www.preloved.co.uk/adverts/show/119996374/cort-a6-bass-guitar.html ? Would it be possible to make the recess for the bridge piece a couple of mm deeper? I assume that there's no adjustment for the bridge as a whole like Warwick 2-piece bridges have.

Yes. https://www.jaydeecustomguitars.co.uk/supernatural_ga24.html