tauzero

I prefer natural, but the only bass I have which isn't natural finish is a three-tone sunburst Variax which I like the look of.

Did you tell them it was fretless or did they notice themselves? The covers band I'm with, that I told I played fretless when I started, noticed that I played fretless after a year.

And if they send me a phaser instead, do I get a tenner refund?

Don't tell me the log's in trouble again. What a waste of Tim.

If the two amps are 15m apart, there'll be a 50mS delay in the sound travelling each way. So you'll hear them 50mS late and they'll hear you 50mS late, and the result will be that you both slow down to get in time with the other one, which will never happen. It doesn't seem to serve any porpoise. Are you playing mullet rock?

Remember: the first rule of Dunning-Kruger Club is you don't know you're in Dunning-Kruger Club.

I realise that descending to factual solutions is disapproved of, but I felt that desperate times call for desperate measures. So I messaged the seller. Me: Is it an Ergo instrument? Seller: Yes, it is. Case closed without having to play rock paper scissors lizard Spock.

This was my Ergo EUB. I'm pretty sure it is an Ergo.

When you say it doesn't recognise the web site for the GUI, does it mean you have to put in something like modduo.local as the URL? If so, try finding the IP address instead and use that.

It looks like it's fretted in the way that medieval instruments were fretted, by wrapping gut or string round the neck. I recognise the maker - it's an Ergo bass. I had a 5-string Ergo EUB - sold it as I couldn't cope with 5 strings and 41" scale (I can do one or the other, not both).

I think that's why I prefer unlined - you're not driven as much by your eyes.

MS Comic Sans, to appeal to the feeble-minded.

Whoever made it seems to have been slightly more careful with the individual bridge piece placement than with drilling the through-body holes. Quite attractive though, apart from the headstock.

Bugger, forgot about this in the rush of getting both bikes MOTed today. As the MOTs expire in the week and I'll be using them, it was rather a priority.

https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/78585-diy-effects/?do=findComment&comment=4459224

I've been experimenting with power supplies for the pedalboard which is to feature the Stomp plus a Raspberry Pi-powered soft synth module. Both of them are quite hefty current draws. I bought https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193853851917 and modified a daisy-chain lead to have a 5.5/2.5mm plug. Turned out I didn't need to daisy-chain the power supply end to increase the current capacity, just run it off one of the 500mA outputs, and the other 500mA output was enough to power the soft synth. I've only tested this briefly, I want to do a soak test for two or three hours to make sure nothing gets too hot or stops working.

What would be handy would be to have the PDF of the cab components and JPG of the crossover attached to the first post, plus details of the drivers and the port, and a pointer to page 5 as the start point for the build guide. Plus a link to cheap sources of replacement Workmates and/or dining chairs.

Sort of. I went into Musical Exchanges in Birmingham in 1988 because I wanted to try out an octaver, and they handed me a Warwick JD Thumb to try it with. I didn't actually regret buying the Fender P I had at the time, but I immediately part-exchanged it for the Warwick.

Coincidentally, I got my fretless from Bass Direct a few years ago. The Bartolini TBIBT preamp had issues soon after I got it, though, and I replaced it with a Delano Sonar 2. It's very light, and very shallow. One other thing is that the neck does move a little with temperature, so I always carry an allen key and a capo to adjust the truss rod if necessary (most of the time it isn't but I don't want to get caught out). Truss rod adjusts the wrong way, like early Warwicks - clockwise loosens it.

The UK went officially metric in 1973. However, the British are a nation of shopkeepers, of the variety that can't manage to adapt to the modern world, so it's all got stuck. However, that's a diversion from GR Bass - I'm now thinking of selling my BF BB2 and Tecamp Puma 900, and replacing them with an AT Cube 800. Less weight, fewer items, and similar power. I'm playing pub gigs with an acoustic guitarist, keyboard player, and a percussionist on cajon and bongoes rather than a drummer, so I don't have to turn it up to full whack - I did try using a BF One10 but it seemed to be breaking up at just short of the volume I needed. Does this sound like a reasonably apples to apples swap?

Only one available now.

For me, the cause was many years of riding bikes without earplugs. Not loud pipes (those are for inconsiderate Cnuts) but simply the wind noise around the helmet. I generally forget about it, but after catching Covid in March 2020 it became more intrusive. Either it's faded again or I've accommodated the new level, not sure which.

Sorry to hear that. RIP MB1

From a distance [1] it seems quite attractive. The closeups are rather less so. I'd agree with the bastardised Ibanez diagnosis from the headstock shape (after all, Ibanez headstocks are sufficiently minimal that you can't do a lot to them apart from cut them off). [1] RIP

The headstock mirrors the body angle beautifully. The best way to have approached the break angle issue (sadly no longer available) would have been to shift it all upwards[1], so the break angle to the E string was in the opposite direction to what it actually is and the break angle to the G is reduced. [1] Or, depending on your perspective, leftwards