tauzero

This is the stuff - the Nova Pad https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162935948623?var=464180501111 which I've used on the BC112Mk3, the micro cab, and the Plenty cab.

But a P pickup is two halves each covering two strings, so out of phase is irrelevant - it wouldn't make any difference to the sound, unlike a twin pickup bass (J type) where out of phase would be relevant.

So using my default of needled felt would be a reasonable thing to do?

Tecamp Puma 500 or 900.

The Burns Flyte has a very similar body, although it unfortunately isn't headless.

Some of you do...

Would the Ray5 be the same as the Stingray 5? I have one of those here too so I could try a neck swap.

@Phil Starr, does the cab need some acoustic wadding?

No replacement speakers available, so I've opted for a refund.

Mrs Zero and I used that for our wedding walk down the aisle at the registry office.

And Black Friday.

What about Chuck Barry?

Considering that a short scale has two differences to a long scale - shorter distance between equivalent frets, for the more delicately handed, and shorter reach to the first fret, for the non-Warwick Thumb-inclined, these only tick one of the boxes. Also the lump of metal which counterbalances the ugly lump of wood stuck out needlessly far into space has been moved to a position where it counterbalances it less so it will be more neck-divey. One step forward (for the short scale lover) and two steps back.

I have one of the Jamstik guitars I mentioned above, and there's a small hex key like a little starting handle (I'm sure most BCers are old enough to remember when cars had starting handles) which can be used to turn the little wheels. It's attached to the bridge magnetically and tucked in neatly so you don't have to worry about losing it or forgetting it.

The most obvious answer is that the wires from the pickup that buzzes are reversed, so the ground side is connected to where the hot side should be. If the connection to the pickup is through solder pads on the bottom of the pickup, just unsolder them at the solder pads and reverse the wires.

Ta. I'll give that a whirl in ten days when I'm back there (probably won't have completed the cab by then anyway).

OP hasn't been here for 9 years.

Does this mean that there's a chance that they'll fit the OLP Tony Levin? Nut width 45mm. Width at 12th fret 61.5mm. Width at 22nd fret 69mm. Depth at 1st fret 21.8mm. Depth at 12th fret 23.6. Heel thickness c 27.8mm. Neck pocket - 93mm long Distance from 12th fret to end of heel pocket - c 203mm

Headstock looks like a Reverend one chopped off at the end. This is why headless basses are the future.

A stable? I thought it was a Community Centre. Might bridle at that.

I see there's some compliments on the 8" speaker - any detailed commentary on the speaker shoot out, either here or in Amps and Cabs?

After using the shitty house Orange 50W bass combo a couple of times at a local open mic (absolutely dreadful, the front end goes into clipping almost instantly even with the pad on), I thought I'd build one of these to pair either with a TC BAM200 or Tecamp Puma 900 to use there. Interestingly, a search on Ebay for the Fane Sovereign 225-8 gave various results with shipping costs being displayed but when I clicked on https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125957204831 it showed shipping as zero instead of a few quid, so that's the one. A trip to B&Q beckons - I think I'll eschew their free cutting service, the last time I took advantage of it didn't fill me with confidence. Looks like materials cost should come in at around £90 given that I have several speakers worth of drainpipe in the shed.

Sounds like my system with fretless. Play enough short notes fast enough and nobody notices that they're not in tune.