tauzero

I don't understand the misconception that the only point of a 5-string is the bottom 5 notes. It isn't as if it's a huge secret.

If I'm not using the C string for anything then there's no point having it. You do realise that with a 5-string strung BEADG you don't have to stretch across an extra string to reach the E, A, D, or G strings, don't you?

I'm not going to mention my 10 string then.

Not a valid comparison. If the notes you play are mostly or entirely those available on a 4-string, playing them in the same position on a 5-string means the same stretch for the fretting hand, whereas playing them in the same position on a 6 means stretching across an extra string. Which is why I play 5s and not (often) 6s.

Shipping costs including time travel are prohibitive.

Oh, it makes slightly more sense now.

I went over to 5 strings when I found one with a neck as comfortable as the JD Thumb that was my primary bass up till then. I've stuck with 5s as I'm used to them and know where I am on the fretboard - I still have a couple of 4s and three 6s, which is probably three more 6s than I actually need. The B string generally has a slightly different timbre to the others, and I make use of that, not just from song to song but within a song too.

Some people just don't get on with fives. Not sure why, but there's always a few in the marketplace being sold by people who tried a five and didn't like it. It's always possible they were just horrible to play and the sellers thought it was because they were fives, not simply because they were shit.

I bought it for Mrs Zero (without her knowledge). Fortunately she did wear it to the following gig, so I don't have to divorce her.

You're either deliberately or accidentally misinterpreting @Woodinblack's reply. You said "As a cut down mixer maybe you are expected to add your own WiFi router if you need to use that, and save money if you don’t. This is not like the XR where you have to use an external device. " so @Woodinblack (and I) naturally assumed that the external device that you were referring to was the router which you mistakenly assumed was necessary to use wifi with the XR series, possibly because so many people say that the XR wifi is unusable (it isn't). Hence his reply "And you don't 'have' to use an external device, I didn't for years and only once had an issue." referring to an external router, not an external controller. So, to sum up A router is unnecessary to connect to an XR box but it's not a bad idea to use one Some external device is needed to control the XR box, which can be a wired control like an X-Touch or BCF2000 or a tablet connected by wifi Don't believe all the bollocks you read on the internet about what is and isn't necessary

Did anyone decide to be a guinea pig? If so, can we all come round to yours to try it out?

Finishes like that terrify me, as I know it would only be a matter of time (and not much of it) before I chipped it, hence my preference for natural. Looks lovely.

My two four-string Thumbs, apart from one being a defret, are unmodded. Ditto the 5-string Thumb, the Ibanez SRF705, the Esh Poseidon V, and the Dean 10-string. Other basses have had replacement pickups or preamps. Other than the Cort Space with the faulty pickups and the Sei Original that had a preamp fail early on in its life with me, I could have lived with the sound of any of the modded instruments prior to their modification.

While it may seem shallow, looks are important. Especially something a little out of the ordinary (I have allowed two FSOs into the house, one Variax and one Sei). Part of this is that it should be a natural finish, I dislike paint, especially as I'd probably chip it. Number of strings - five (I have two wonderful 4-strings and more 6-strings than I'll ever use). Headless preferred but not absolutely essential, though the threshold of acceptance for a headed bass is higher than that for a headless, obviously. Once I've got that far, it's time to play it. Neck must be shallow. Not bothered about string spacing, anything from 16 to 19mm will do. Preferably two pickups and active, though I do have one passive and one single pickup bass. It should also make a reasonable sound.

It would be a shame to lose old threads if it's not necessary, they can often be useful references. I've found a few answers to things I wanted to know in threads which have been dormant for ten years or more.

Which reminds me, for the bassist who would like to go headless

as long as the bassist in question owns at least one headed bass.

How about something for the bassist's other half? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371058353975

They'd have to be germanium diodes, and you'd need pretty hot pickups as they'd need to output more than 200mV which is where Ge diodes start conducting. I have in the past built an active version of this in a guitar with a transistor amplifying the signal so it was pushed to > 200mV, and then took it out again because it sounded shit.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235680587374 is the auction

Good passive-aggressive T-shirt when the other "bassist" at an open mic night is a guitarist who owns a bass: (I wore it last night).

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183302664558 or almost any other from https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2332490.m570.l1313&_nkw=bass+mug&_sacat=0

Active. Preferably with an active/passive switch. I generally leave the tone controls flat but it does come in useful if the tone needs some adjustment which I can do on the bass rather than going to the amp.