tauzero

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1490908332' post='3269041'] Here's the HF section. Can anyone recommend anything better than Microsoft Paint for this kind of stuff? [/quote] A is connected to B, which will bypass the entire HF crossover.

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1490895827' post='3268931'] We're a bit under time pressure here, what with the SW bass bash looming. I've wound the coils for John's cab and he will be picking them up tomorrow. All very skin-of-your-teeth. So here is the LF section of the crossover with the board layout. Please shout if you see any silly mistakes. There will be a PDF pinned to message # 1 in due course. [/quote] You've got A connected to C, which bypasses the entire LF crossover.

They're basses. They all sound like basses.

"Small blemish on machine head see pic". I think that's the least of its worries.

I don't know how bad Ryanair might be with musical gear but I've flown six times with Easyjet carrying a bass (in a Hiscox case) and had no problems at all. As for the headless kit, I've just got a similar one for a cricket bat guitar and I also have a through-neck six-string bass kit which I have yet to finally finish off. Quality is OK, not disappointing considering the price.

Basses - just into double figures. Amps: Tecamp Puma 900 - main amp Markbass LM250 Blackline - backup Cabs: Bergantino AE112 x 2 I'm also threatening to use a Behringer B210D active PA speaker for the little acoustic (drum-free) group I'm in as a side project. Or I might just knock up a small cab for the Eminence Beta 10A I've got knocking about and use it with one of the amps.

And one of each will still cost you less than just one of the Kala California basses. In fact, one of each of all four colours will cost you less than just one of the Kala California basses. Just think of the money you'd be saving. Wonder if Bass Centre would give me a commission?

Just had an answer to my query - won't be doing a low B 5-string as there are tension issues on the bottom string (Kala do one though, don't know if it's different strings). And all models are available as fretted or lined fretless. And Merton, as they're different scale lengths, they're completely different basses, so you can buy one of each.

Has anybody here tried or bought one of these: [url="http://www.basscentre.com/all-about-that-bass/bass-centre-ashbory-bass-trans-blue.html"]http://www.basscentre.com/all-about-that-bass/bass-centre-ashbory-bass-trans-blue.html[/url] Up to date version of the rubber string short scale bass that started out the whole rubber string short scale bass thing. Looks prettier than the Kala SUB to me. No 5-string version though and no response to my email to the Bass Centre asking them if there would be one. I am very tempted.

[quote name='Chiliwailer' timestamp='1489580481' post='3258078'] I've heard alot of that too and trust the players that have told me. The irony is that I just picked up a cheap Gibson USA 2014 Les Paul Melody Maker model and the QC on that one is great. Go figure... [/quote] But you surely can't know that the QC is great, only that the build quality of that particular specimen is great. For every one great one, they might be shipping out 20 crap ones.

Peavey Grind. Very playable neck, and it's not a bloody Fender.

[quote name='6v6' timestamp='1489321278' post='3255970'] I've been having a play spice modelling these in an effort to understand the frequency/phase response better (I'm a novice when it comes to crossover design but once studied the basic principles, many years ago!) Currently not quite sure the best way to model the electrical characteristics of the drivers (I assume an inductor/resistor but I'm unfamiliar with exactly how to approach specifying this). Modelling the LCR networks is simple enough though so I've started with that. Happy to share the results for discussion here if such reverse-engineering & analysis is OK by stevie [/quote] I don't think it's as simple as an inductor/resistor as there's an impedance peak at the resonant frequency of the speaker. Just had a look and there's an article on Wikipedia - looks like it's a complex LCR mix. [url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_characteristics_of_dynamic_loudspeakers"]https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_characteristics_of_dynamic_loudspeakers[/url]

Those revised drawings are a lot clearer, and I can't see any mistakes in the physical layout.

[quote name='seashell' timestamp='1489184339' post='3255130'] Yah boo sucks. Just unfriended him on FB. That'll teach him. [/quote] You really know how to hurt a man.

Peavey.

The LF circuit looks as if A, B, and C are connected together. Surely there should be no connection between A and B as it shorts out L1? HF circuit looks OK.

I'd have had that if it had five strings.

"[color=#3C3241]It has not been played for over 2 years as I had an accident and I lost my finger but it has been sitting inside the cover." So you get a spare finger with it then.[/color]

A rather attractive [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172567560175"]Sei 5-stringer[/url].

Will anybody be bringing a BF One10? Would like to hear one of those.

I'm settling in with new bands so this is what I was using with the recently-deceased rock covers band: Sei Original fretless 5 or Sei Flamboyant 5 fretted Homemade jack to mini-XLR cable Line 6 G50 wireless Homemade Neutrik/Van Damme cable Zoom B3 Neutrik-ended cable with two DC power extensions sheathed with it to power B3 & G50 (using original power supplies) Tecamp Puma 900 Speaker cable with Neutrik speakon plugs First Bergantino AE112 Warwick Rockbass speaker cable with speakon plugs Second Bergantino AE112

[quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1488132623' post='3246165'] You said - "...to stop it turning face-down." Strange, mine hangs with no issues apart from the slight neck dive. [/quote] It doesn't turn completely face-down but tilts away from me. Is your neck strap button in the standard place? Mind you, it was an awfully long time ago when I had a B2 but I don't remember that having the same issue as the B2V/B2AV.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1487152529' post='3237473'] If you must wear one, it goes on the wrist of your fretting hand. On the other wrist it just gets in the way of your playing. [/quote] More importantly, if you are like me and wear your watch on the inside of your right wrist, and it's a mechanical watch, the pickups can do bad things to the internals. Must take my three watches in to be looked at a jeweller some time... I've found clip-on tuners highly inaccurate with my headless Seis.

[quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1488105335' post='3245793'] You must be using the lower of the two bridge end strap buttons to get the problem that you describe. Is there a reason? It seems counter-intuitive otherwise. [/quote] Must I? I'm not. It's because the centre of gravity is well forward of the neck strap pin location.

[quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1488035100' post='3245239'] You'd think headless basses would be free of the problem but my Steinberger fiver does it a bit. Used to it now though. [/quote] That's because it's bodyless too. I keep meaning to move the strap peg on my Hohner B2AV round to where it is on a Status Streamline, not to stop neck dive but to stop it turning face-down. My Thumbs are a bit neck-divey. I think a suede strap, or something with similar frictional qualities, would solve the problem.