tauzero

Now we know what bass Captain James T Kirk would fall in love with.

As you've got a pair of phono sockets on it too, you could use a stereo phono lead and a stereo phono to mono jack adaptor, eg. [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-35mm-MONO-1-4-Jack-Plug-to-2-x-RCA-Phono-Female-Socket-Audio-Splitter-Adaptor-/331058063599"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-35mm-MONO-1-4-Jack-Plug-to-2-x-RCA-Phono-Female-Socket-Audio-Splitter-Adaptor-/331058063599[/url]

[quote name='isteen' timestamp='1406983836' post='2516430'] The Zoom b3 looks neat, and also have rythm patterns build in, but I've head it really don't sound good enough for using with a band or on stage. [/quote] Was the person who said that someone whose opinion you value?

Dreadful things. I passed on one because it was so horrible to play. Of course, I didn't realise that there would be a huge rise in the value of old crap that a Beatle had played.

Back in the USSR by the Beatles at a hall of residence gig at International Hall in That London, a month or so before I dropped out of university. So that would have been 1976.

I have the G50 - I use Eneloop batteries with it (rechargables which will stay charged when not in use) which last two or three gigs, though I now tend to change them at each gig.

The world's most uncomfortable toilet?

I've just bought one of these: [url="http://www.tc-helicon.com/products/voicetone-create-xt/"]http://www.tc-helicon.com/products/voicetone-create-xt/[/url] and it's pretty good. It allows you to have two patches that you can switch between (A and with a total of 10 pairs of two patches. So Mrs Zero can have reverb for most of the time and chuck some delay in now and again, and [s]forget to[/s] turn the reverb off between songs. Now discontinued, it would appear, but Thomann got a batch in at the end of June.

I use it as a three pedal unit too. Generally I use the same three effects (or subsets thereof) for all songs (chorus and amp sim, reverb to thicken things up for some guitar solos), but there's a few that I use just on one song so there's a separate couple of patches for those.

Using a single resistor won't work correctly (I have a feeling I may have suggested it earlier but I hadn't thoguht it through). As you go from one to two lit elements, you're doubling the current through the resistor while putting two LEDs in parallel, thus halving their resistance, and it's far too late for me to work out exactly what'll happen but essentially you'll be reducing the voltage across the LEDs. So if the red LED has a lower threshold than the blue LED and the voltage drops to just below the threshold voltage, you'll just see the red. So bridge the single resistor and put the same value resistor between each switch and the respective LED cathode.

Wireless. It's nice not worrying about treading on your lead. Or go to the marketplace and see if anyone fancies swapping your 3U case with a 2U one, thus averting temptation and saving money.

[quote name='LawrenceH' timestamp='1406036918' post='2507721'] This is another reason to think carefully about tuning in the 40Hz versus the 50Hz regions, since tuning lower can give a curve that is easier to EQ within the range you actually care about using the EQ controls found on a typical amp (eg 12dB/oct shelving filters for the bass). [/quote] How feasible would it be to have a cab that could be easily retuned, eg. by partially blocking a port if it's shelf-ported?

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1406154713' post='2508957'] Out of interest what are Flyte cabs made of to be so light? [/quote] I suspect it's whatever material is left after Peavey and Trace Elliot have sucked all the heaviness out of it to include in their cabs. Which reminds me, what sort of quality was the 12mm ply used in the prototype cab builds? B&Q quality or top quality Baltic ply with voids filled with unicorn tears?

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1405716597' post='2504751'] The only other difference is going to be an order switcher in the off board wiring. It is going to be tight, but with both pedals on the same board like this, and not separate and overlapping, and only using one multicoloured LED (red with the Muff, blue with the Musket and purple with both), it will all fit. [/quote] Not going for the logic-powered three-colour system then?

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1405969124' post='2507108'] I can't understand why they are so rare? [/quote] Because it has looks that only Stevie Wonder could love?

[quote name='Norris' timestamp='1406027168' post='2507570'] Never, ever, ever let anyone place a drink on top of your amplifier [/quote] Unless you have it mounted in one of these rack cases: Perfect for containing spillage.

Always get the young man's name and address. Business cards. If you're in a band, make sure you've always got some business cards because you're the only one in the band who will have. (This also applies to capos, spare leads, lighting rigs, and PA). Make sure the hat you buy is the right size. Fans. Get a clip-on fan to keep you cool. A hand towel is useful too. Use a guitar stand to hold your bass, don't just prop it up unless it's a headless that's happy to be stood on end. If you want to get ahead, get a hat. Don't take any advice from anyone on a bass forum.

I still have the silicone strings on mine and I don't use talc for them, just don't slide around the neck and use a rather violinish left-hand technique (fingers pointing along rather than across the strings).

Decent capo. I use a G7 for the odd guitar gig that I do, which is trouble free. On a side note related to multiple guitars, one of the bands that I play in does some songs tuned a semitone down, and the guitarist has two guitars - he leaves both in standard tuning in the first set so he has a backup if a string breaks, then tunes it down in the interval and we do all the down-tuned songs in the second set (which is, of course, when he breaks a string). Despite the fact that his capo isn't of the best, he can actually put it on and take it off without affecting the tuning of the guitar.

Seeing as there's one of these threads every few weeks, could a mod merge them all and pin them? That's if there's any mods paying attention to this thread...

[quote name='Thor' timestamp='1405538823' post='2502909'] Cheers Si, I knew this would be kinda tricky to explain, the old switch has the pins mounted vertically and I suppose what I mean is that the pin currently mounted in the top left corner is wired to the input jack (the shorter terminal on the jack), I guess what I'm trying to get at is if the switch is mounted in the casing 180 degrees out, the top left pin on the switch would now be bottom right, so I'm concerned (as i don't really understand how the switch works) whether i could cause damage/further problems with the pedal. [/quote] 180 degrees out wouldn't matter, but those 9-ways can easily be put in 90 degrees out (I've done it myself). Get a multimeter on it and as KB says, map it out. Simplest way is to put one probe on the centre pin and then go round the four pins at the centre of each side until you get a connection, then you know what the orientation is.

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1405192120' post='2499612'] The problem I am having is working out how to make it do what I want it to do. I will basically have two pedals in one box, a fairly standard Big Muff and a Musket, but I want them to share an RGB tri-colour LED, with a shared anode. When the Muff is on I want the LED to glow green, when the Musket is on I want it to glow red, but when both pedals are on together I want it to glow blue. As it is I can't figure out how to do it. I can't find a red/blue bi-colour LED so if I do decide that I definitely can't make it work how I want, I will still have to buy the tri-colour one and just not use the green cathode. [/quote] How complicated do you want to get? It would be pretty easy with a couple of logic ICs - hex inverter (you use five inverters) and quad AND (you use three gates). CMOS chips will run at 9V which is what you want (TTL only goes up to 5V). Run the Big Muff LED signal to the A input of AND 1, the A input of AND 3, and via an inverter to the A input of AND 2. Run the Musket LED signal to the B input of AND 2, the B input of AND 3, and via the other inverter to the B input of AND 1. AND 1 output goes to the green anode, AND 2 output to the red anode, AND 3 output to the blue anode, and you connect the common cathode to 0V with a resistor, or maybe put the resistor between the AND gates and the anodes. The logic is pretty simple - LED 1 is A.!B, LED2 is !A.B, and LED3 is A.B.