tauzero

https://www.fullcompass.com/prod/520983-line-6-30-27-2012-battery-door-for-g30

The "electric classical guitar" is top-notch, there's me thinking that the indicators of a classical guitar were the nylon strings and flat fretboard and a 48-52mm nut width whereas it's actually metal strings, a radiussed fretboard, and a 54mm nut width. Plus the colour-coded bridge pieces so you know which ones are the E strings. That J with the two single coils wired as a "humbucker" - isn't the idea of a humbucker that one coil is wound one way, the other is wound the other way, then they're connected such that the signal is additive but the ambient electrical noise cancels out? So how would that work with two single coils wound the same way? Unless he's using "buck" with the meaning "increase" (buck up) rather than "oppose" (buck the trend).

I know. Haven't you ever had to click on a load of pictures of fire hydrants, traffic lights, or pedestrian crossings?

You'll also get big image sizes if you copy the image and paste it into a post, as it will generate an "image.png" file in PNG format which will be larger than it need be.

Please, not another Captcha.

You didn't state facts, you stated opinions. What has "woke" got to do with anything? Looks like there's still no reason to take you out of the ignore list.

Look for Mark Wright Music on Facebook. He's a former Line 6 employee who does repairs - it would be worth talking to him.

Is that done by using two class D modules in opposite phase to each other (I feel that was a trick that Ashdown may have missed out on with the Superfly and Superduperfly)?

There's always the risk it could be taken seriously... I'm certainly not the only one on here who came to bass via guitar - don't know if we're in the majority, if not we're a substantial minority. Guitar is a useful skill to have as you think more around chord structures. Keep meaning to work on my almost non-existent keyboard skills too.

Thanks, I have TL061 on the way - if I manage to keep my enthusiasm going long enough, I'll build a tantalum and an electrolytic version, with IC sockets on both so I can swap op amps if I want.

messy, tiring, often frustrating or disappointing, generally better with more than one participant, and sometimes you get paid for it.

Unfortunately not currently available. Continuing with plan A. I'll see about using tants instead of electrolytics, although I'm not sure that it would actually make a difference. There's LM4250CNs on Ebay but I'm not sure that they really are, there's some suggested replacements available from Farnell: LT1097CN8 LT1012DN8 LT1351CN8

Ordered a Stingray preamp PCB (same circuit as the Retrovibe Stinger) from OSHPark. I shall reflect on the pickup once I've got the pot replaced as the original is a 2-wire pickup and it would be nice to have a 4-wire with switchable series/parallel. I think I have some pickup height adjusting to do.

I've got the WS-50 and the WS-90. The WS-90 has longer battery life (which won't be a problem with a gig unless you're playing the entire Ring Cycle), can be switched between four channels, and has a longer nose so it will get to sockets that other dongles can't reach like the Ibanez SR ones. The WS-50 has performed reliably, nothing wrong with it and it still has a battery life of perhaps five hours.

Absolutely certain. I emailed them to ask about it. There are some manufacturing tolerances so sometimes old locks will fit on new buttons but it's not reliable. Schaller themselves say The first combination is without the silent feature because the old button is slightly smaller than the new one (new 12.1mm diameter, old 12mm diameter, top of button to lock slot 4.1mm new, 4mm old) so it'll be a little more rattly.

I haven't opened it up yet (waiting for the volume pot) - wiring diagrams show a single hot wire rather than a four-wire pickup, so it could be permanently parallel wired. The preamp has treble and bass controls, both centre detented - isn't that likely to be a normal two-band boost/cut preamp rather than filter based?

I know about the Schallers (I've posted about it two or three times) - it's the other way round, the old locks often won't fit onto new buttons. And the buttons cost a fortune for genuine Schaller, but compatibles are available - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135120131903 which work with old and new.

Assuming I have the nomenclature right... Went up to Nantwich today to pick up a Ray5 bought on Ebay from a seller in Liverpool who kindly came halfway down to meet me. It seems that people can't give them away nowadays. Good condition and the attractive natural walnut, which is what I wanted. Action was high enough to get a bus under - rather too much relief and the saddles were raised so far that the grub screws were completely inside on the B string. Back home, a few turns of the truss rod (literally, I think it took two and a half turns) got relief down to near flat, as I like it, and I got the saddles lowered nicely too - the G string saddle is flat on the bridge and just right, so at least I don't have to shim the neck. Although the strings are 40-60-75-95-125 they feel stiffer than my normal 40-125 Elites so I'll change them at some point in the not too far distant future. The bass and treble pots are OK but the volume pot is rather iffy, replacement on order. The pots still have the protective sheet stuck under them. The pickguard has been off at some point, a couple of the screws are slightly mangled but I have replacements in black which might look better. First impressions are that the neck is a little on the thick side - not terribly so, though, and I am comparing it to Seis and Antoniotsais. It is comfortable to play. Fretwork seems OK. It seems to be quite high output. Needs Schaller-compatible straplock buttons, which is the next item on the agenda. Machine heads feel a little gritty, for want of a better word - I think a bit of dismantling and cleaning is in order. They're perfectly usable but could be improved. This is a candidate for defretting - decision to be taken fairly soon. Photo from the Ebay advert.

I've gone for yet another bridge unit which is quite cheap. The guitar equivalent is used on the Jamstik Studio MIDI guitar. 4 and 5 string variants are available. This is the one I bought: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007488329170.html If you look at the photos in the body of the posting rather than the ones at the top, there's a diagram showing all the dimensions. 16mm string spacing on the 5-string but I don't know what the 4-string spacing is as there doesn't seem to be an equivalent diagram for that. With the Riviera one, you need to drill potholes into the bass body to accommodate the mechanism. The ALP travel bridge just sits on top of the body, only holes for fixing screws needed. String height adjustment seems simple - I think there's one grub screw to alter the height and a second one to lock it. Intonation is a bit annoying as you need to get the string out of the way to loosen and tighten the anchor screw.

No, while the wolf's not at the door, I'm being cautious with funds, plus I'm not sure how many body parts Mrs Zero would remove. Plus I'd like to try one before buying one. There's a $500 coupon for custom instruments (ie 5-strings) and also an early bird $200 coupon EARLYBIRD24 for orders placed in a range of dates which I presume are in the stupid American date format, 7th to 12th November (otherwise it's 11th July to 11th December which seems unlikely).

There's a couple of coupon codes that they've sent out so you can get $700 off the price.

On the 30th of November we're doing a charity fundraiser for Amicii Dog Rescue that our singer does work for. It's at Tirley, fairly near Gloucester and Cheltenham.

Have you done a comparative experiment with bagpipes and accordions?

I know it's easy to project one's own experiences but it might be a manufacturing issue with the pickup - if one magnet has been put in the wrong way round, you'd get that. Happened to me with a Cort Space, which has split magnets and I can only assume that one magnet was put in the wrong way round - the consequence was that with the blend set to both pickups equal, the B, E, and A strings were very thin and nasal, the D and G sounded fine.