tauzero

A few years ago, I joined a Marillion tribute band. Pete Trewavas plays a Warwick Thumb (which I had) but also there's a fair few pictures of him with a Cort GB4 (or it could be a GB94, the only visible difference is the colour of the logo IIRC). So I bought one, and found it a great bass. However, I was deposed from the band and because I only play 5-strings, I sold the GB4. However, I did fancy the 5-string version and a few days ago got the urge to have a look and see if anyone was selling one. Indeed there was one for sale from @jimmybass04 which he'd advertised a while ago but there was no sign of it being sold. It was indeed still available, and to save me a 300 mile trip to Glasgow, he had a friend bring it down to Leeds, a far more reasonable 120 miles away. So I went up there yesterday to pick it up. Lovely condition, fitted with Schaller S-Lock straplocks, although I think I'll be taking the flatwounds off in favour of lighter gauge roundwounds. Took it to an open mic night last night and it was fine, not a lightweight but I mainly sit when playing so that's not really an issue. Pickups are Jazz and humbucker which produce a very full and balanced sound. The tuners are Hipshot Ultralight (presumably the licensed ones) - nice attention to detail. The headstock, like a Fender, isn't angled back, and there's a string tree across all five strings to give a good break angle. Fretwork is good and the fretboard edges are nicely rounded.

"Bass player seeks similar".

Has anyone ever seen Sting and Bob Mortimer in the same room?

Bought Jimmy's Cort GB5. To avoid absolutely enormous amounts of travel or consigning it to one of the many couriers to do their worst with, a friend of his acted as intermediary and brought it down to near Leeds, a far better option for me. All went smoothly. Thanks Jimmy.

Down to two now, so someone has the extraordinarily good taste to buy one. Were it not for the fact that it's painted (I don't have painted basses) and is probably impossible to put on a stand, plus it's got one too many strings and it's ten times as much as I might be able to find down the back of the settee, one of the remaining two would be mine.

And the ball end is a weak point which can shear if there's a lot of force on it. If the truss rod access slot is a bit on the short side, find what size allen key you need and cut down the short arm a bit so you can get the allen key in properly.

I found the same thing a while ago - I think I posted about it on here. Finished up using these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185779208770 Fitted with the screws going through the holes (as shown there).

Oi! I resent that! I always wrote documentation as if I was going to have to use it, and I have a memory like a thing with holes in it so I assume that everything from the basics up needs to be documented. I think you mean a C programmer.

Audio Technica ATH-M20x or a pair of RHA earbuds which are probably obsolete now, or ZS10s (although I find these a bit awkward to get properly in place, although the sound quality is better than the RHAs).

That puzzled me until I realised that some stupid filter is changing "tw@t" to "twit".

<chorus>How much did you paid for that?

I originally just paired the Nux Mighty Plug, which was all that showed up. Just checked and the Mighty Plug MIDI doesn't show up in the saved devices, it shows up if I switch the Mighty Plug on but can't be paired to, then if I run the app, it disappears. So I think the app picks it up on its own if the audio is paired.

The AUDIO Bluetooth device wasn't shown in the pairing screen, after numerous turning on and off and pressing the Bluetooth button for 10 seconds. Finally did a factory reset of the GO and the AUDIO option has now appeared. What a bloody rigmarole. And the Nux Mighty Plug just has the one Bluetooth device and can happily cope with settings being messed with while music plays, so I'm not convinced that there's any need to do that anyway. Still, I am now there or thereabouts. Thanks to all for your help.

There is no audio bluetooth connection.

I would have if the KATANA:GO AUDIO had shown up. But it didn't, and it doesn't.

Some more detail here: https://3dprintingspace.com/t/cr-6-se-usb-problems/82/2 Probably applies only to the CR-6 SE which I presume is now obsolete.

Seems like a bad move. Immensely frustrating. Nux Mighty Plug - plug in, switch on, play songs on phone and play along to them. Katana Go - plug in, switch on, try to pair Bluetooth via the app, apparently it works, try playing music on phone with the same player app as I use with the Nux, music comes through phone speakers. Adding songs one by one to the session list in the BTS app, try playing them after going through the Bluetooth connection rigmarole on the app and the device, and they play through the phone speakers. Unusable. Not surprised it's been discontinued, should never have been sold in the first place. The Nux Mighty Plug might have inferior sound quality but it's infinitely superior in usability.

That's the one that I have, that has the problem with the 20V or so on the 5V line. It's not a problem with all of them AIUI, I just happen to have one of the dodgy ones.

Something to be aware of when setting up an Octoprint server (or anything connecting to the USB port) is that some motherboards on some Creality 3D printers put about 20V onto the 5V line. You need to check this before connecting anything, and if it's the case, modify a USB lead by cutting the 5V line before using it to connect.

Tech Soundsystem ND410S. But that would depend on your definition of "cheap", it would be more than £50. Tech speakers turn up on BC now and again. There's an Ashdown 4x10 on Ebay at the moment, £75 start, £140 BIN, with a 300W Behringer head. IIRC they're lighter than the depleted-uranium lined Trace Elliot cabs.

A Rotosound string?

No, red wire to centre lug of tone pot. Connecting it to the sleeve of the output jack will result in no output.

Probably OK as long as you're not in the room with it.

That's impressively rapid.

£7k.