tauzero

AIUI, you've got a path Tuner > Octabvre > SA C4 > DHA Broken > Dyna-ssor > Joyo Monomyth > Source Audio bass zio and what you're looking for is to opt between Tuner > Octabvre > SA C4 > DHA Broken > Joyo Monomyth > Source Audio bass zio and Tuner > SA C4 > DHA Broken > Dyna-ssor > Joyo Monomyth > Source Audio bass zio As I said, I have no experience of the LS2, but couldn't you put the octave in the A loop and the dyna-ssor in the B loop and use the mode which lets you switch between them (if I've interpreted the modes correctly)?

You may want an effects switcher - with no experience whatsoever of doing this, I'd suggest having a look at the Boss LS-2 and ES-5.

Applying a little reverb to the solid bodied rubber string basses gives a more upright sound (just emulating the reverb that a hollow body gives). If you only want 4 strings, there's also the Ashbory to consider. Lined fretless, 18" scale. The earliest ones (by Guild) had ukulele tuners which are a PITA, the later Fender/DeArmond ones have conventional tuners. And there was the 22" scale Mk II (I think three of us on BC own these), and the very very rare Mk IIb - one on Ebay at the moment but I value every part of my anatomy too much to risk Mrs Zero's wrath if I should buy it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235693470683 The Bass Centre has been issuing further Ashbory derivatives too - https://www.basscentre.com/bass-centre-ashbory-bass.html

How did you do the CA coating on the fingerboard, and which CA glue did you use?

I've got the 5-string version of the Kala SUB - it's a nice instrument, can't think of any cons to it. I don't have any experience of the HB bass uke, but my experience of other HBs (guitars and basses) has been positive. Just get both.

I'd consider getting shot of the beard. I only grew it because I couldn't be arsed shaving during lockdown, and now it's much lower maintenance than shaving and Mrs Zero doesn't object too much. At 66 I think I'm a little past the point where cosmetics would be meaningful. The absence of hair doesn't help either. Best of luck with the audition.

Definitely, especially as visiting the store is appointment only so there isn't any such thing as casual footfall. Bass Direct a couple of miles up the road doesn't need appointments - it's still not exactly high street but it's possible to drop in on a whim (and leave with your wallet considerably shrunk), but even they recognised the importance of the online presence and finally updated their website.

"during 70s 80s and 90s" - so three decades of playing, five decades of possession. Presumably he got himself a proper bass 25 years ago. I wouldn't automatically assume that having no pics of the neck stamp but knowing that it's there is necessarily a sign of it being dodgy - after all, if he's ever had to adjust the truss rod, he'd have taken the neck off and seen the stamp, but wouldn't necessarily have thought to take a photo (or it might have been before digital cameras and cameras on phones). Still, he's going to find more demand for it if he does go the extra mile.

You could get some suede and stick it to the underside of the strap, seeing as that is (I think) a wide padded strap. I have a similar Lekato strap - I don't have any neck-divey basses that I use standing but I checked the strap and the neoprene/memory foam is a bit slippier than I imagined it would be.

Sue Ryder bass?

Not too shocking (not cheap though) at 160€. Top tip: TransferWise is very useful to do bank transfers to banks in forn parts.

Gorilla ones for me too, they've needed a nut and a star bolt replaced in ten years or more.

Headless bass.

Not unless I've changed gender and nationality without noticing. I suppose I should have mentioned that it was somebody else's review.

What I was trying to say earlier was that a totally rigid bridge won't absorb energy itself, so if the high mass bridge deforms less than the BBOT then it will absorb less energy itself and therefore the sustain will be greater, given that all other elements of the system remain the same.

I think it would just have to be a reasonably rigid beam, as you're looking at a comparison rather than an absolute.

They're available on Ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/387060057584

Phil's video does give thorough guidance on the assembly.

Kala used to do the SUB range (I have one, a fretted 5). They dropped those some time ago, in fact they'd dropped them when I got mine so Thomann were flogging them off (just call me Betamax man). They are now doing a cheaper bass uke range, but these are steel strung with magnetic pickups rather than rubber strings and piezo.

Possibly this:

I bought a Batking one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363555959883. Surprisingly good.

That's fine, as long as it's not me spending money I'm happy 😁

When I shimmed one neck with a brass shim, I put it over the two neck bolts closest to the bridge rathe than between them and the end of the neck.

I've played one, albeit a four-string, and I didn't like the neck. Which I was very pleased about, as it meant I wouldn't be tempted to spend ridiculous amounts of money.

No warranty replacement - a) I opened the amp up to diagnose the problem, voiding the warranty, and b) warranty for woofer is only one year. They've offered to sell me a replacement at a discount, just waiting to find out how much that will be.