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Everything posted by tauzero
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Could that be an issue with the neck alignment? ISTR somebody else having a similar problem, rectified by loosening off the strings, slackening the neck screws, and pushing the neck sideways, then retightening.
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That's OK, I swapped it for another one with a headstock so the Zero Towers headstock count has remained constant.
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I bought my Eko Ranger 6 back in 1984 because it was a good guitar. I still have it. I rather miss the Ranger 12 I used to have.
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I realised that there are two valid answers for me, depending on circumstances. My original answer of a James Tyler Variax (probably the 69), but that's for when I'm going out with a guitar to an open mic or the like. When just playing in the house, it's the Eko Ranger 6 which is also the musical instrument I've had the longest.
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Just exchanged my Cort GB5 Custom for @eddking's Sei Jazz 5 (with some monetary adjustment). Ed kindly travelled up from Exmouth to Bristol and I travelled down from Tamworth, and we met up in the Starbucks at Gordano Services (breaking with the tradition of meeting in car parks, but it was a rather miserable evening). Everything went smoothly. Many thanks, Ed.
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This has been through many BC hands - at least @Gwilym, @bubinga5, @carlsim, and @eddking (who I bought it from). Ed and I met up at Gordano services after an eventful journey down (for me) and exchanged a Cort GB5 Custom and some money with the Sei. The neck is lovely, as I'd expect from a Sei - slim and shallow. It's light and is well balanced, both seated and on the strap. The tuners are smooth and free of play. The bridge is nice and chunky. Soundwise, the Bartolini pickups have plenty of output with nothing lacking. The East Uni-Pre controls are volume/blend, bass/treble, mid sweep and boost/cut, and passive tone, plus a mute switch and an active/passive switch. The blend is very effective. Treble and bass do their jobs nicely, with a lot of boost and cut but very controllable. The mid controls definitely work but I think I'll steer clear of them. The "passive" tone works in both active and passive modes, and in extremis gets rid of all the treble. With any luck, the Basschat bike has found a forever home.
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Try getting in touch with Mark Wright - https://www.facebook.com/MarkWrightMusicdotcom He's a former Line 6 employee who does a fair few repairs on Line 6 stuff.
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My Mystery Bass. Still no results so posting again.
tauzero replied to Andy in Wales's topic in Bass Guitars
I thought that said "debateable" on first reading...- 10 replies
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People must think that the pseudo marketing text generated is better than simply saying it's in good nick and maybe putting on the odd detail like scale length or string spacing. Who knows, for the less discerning player and potential purchaser, this may be true.
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Personally, I prefer my Seis to my Corts for the shallow necks. However, somebody with a preference for slightly thicker necks might prefer the Cort. I've not played a Sadowsky or Lull.
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Headless bridge - anyone tried this cheapie?
tauzero replied to Pea Turgh's topic in Repairs and Technical
The little key is held onto the side of the bridge by a magnet. I've got the same system on a Jamstik Studio MIDI guitar. I've also been looking at headless bass bridges for a 5-string and I'm drawn to the ALP one as it's a one-piece and the thought of getting 10 mounting holes for individual bridge units in the right places fills me with dread. The string spacing on the 5-string version is 16mm and as that happens to be the same as the spacing on one of my favourite basses, that would do fine. -
That's a very conformist attitude.
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ISTR (from reading, I don't know Rickenbackers) there's an issue with the routing for the neck pickup weakening the body and the neck pivoting upwards as a result.
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Someone wanted a medium scale headless?
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Bands you love but dislike one or two of their songs a lot
tauzero replied to JottoSW1's topic in General Discussion
ABBA - I can't stand "Dancing Queen". And that was even before this: -
Easily found at any decent Bulgarian Halfords equivalent. I would suggest stripping down each of the tuners, and using some Scotchbrite or wire wool to clean up the tuning posts and worm gear threads, plus applying some grease (moly or copper grease). Edit: As I happen to have an Eko Ranger 6 to hand, I've just had a look, and I'd also clean up the outer face of the main frame of the tuner, where the tuning key passes through. The tuners on mine aren't too bad and they haven't had any maintenance in about 40 years.
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There's also Cort and Ibanez to consider.
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Just try an EHB1005, they've got the Bart BH2s in.
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I thought facts might be useful here. Leatherette is somewhere round 530gsm. Taking the BC 112 v3 cab (because I've built one and I know the measurements), you need a bit under 1kg of Tuffcab for it, whereas it's about .84m² to be covered (sides, top & bottom, back) which works out as .45kg. So maybe half a kilo difference between Tuffcab and Tolex for a 1x12.
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Plus an idea of the sort of neck profile you like.
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But would it hold up if the G is level with the E or the A? The TM registration for the 4+2 has specific placement with the top E between bottom E and A, and top B between A and D, and the 3+1 would have the same with the G above the E and below the A. And I still think that it's a ludicrous thing to be able to trademark. The TM registration also shows that Big Copper Nanotube has indeed turned to the law on occasion.
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Well, if they're now making the big horn version and you prefer the little horn, it can be reshaped. In fact, Bo Diddley pioneered the reshaping concept but it never properly caught on. Here he is with some before and after examples.