tauzero

I had one of the percussive fretless ones many, many years ago. I think it was one of the instruments I part-exchanged to get my Warwick Thumb in 1988.

Putting a reverb with a quite rapid decay on it helps, especially if you start out with an Ashbory.

Isn't that just a switched jack plug?

Lekato WS-90. Fits into an SRF705.

That looks neat. Makes headless conversions simple.

That's a tier 2.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1368176770519389 Such honesty is rare and deserves rewarding. Not by me, though.

Just beware that this doesn't presage a slippery slope - "I had to buy a wireless as if I walked 10 metres from my amp with my 3 metre lead, I couldn't be heard".

Yes, everything of mine is active - used with an Ibanez EHB1265MS and various others (Warwick, Sei, for example). One point - if you have one of the recessed socket Ibanezezezes like the SRF705, the WS-50 doesn't quite get in there but the WS-90 does.

Lekato WS-50 - use it all the time, for rehearsals, open mic nights, and gigs. Have also bought a Lekato WS-90 recently which is a bit bigger, has a longer battery life (the WS-50 isn't bad at 4+ hours) and can be switched to any of four channels.

I have a 1-Spot powering an HX Stomp from the rightmost power outlet, other outlets being used for a MIDI switch, HPF/LPF, and Harley-Benton wireless. Just used a 2.1 to 2.5 non-reversing lead (chopped the end off a 2.1-2.1 and put on a 2.5).

Both pickups fit exactly into the recesses designed for them and the nut looks fine, so it's just inspired by He Who Must Not Be Named, not one of his production models.

It gets posted in the Weird and Wonderful section and people point and laugh. Alternatively, it gets put into production as per prototype with a horrible chunky neck, which is what happened in this case.

Well, that's further bafflement. There's heatshrink over the end of the outer insulation on the pickup leads, which I thought might contain the ends of each pickup winding, like on the BH2 pickups. No such luck. Slit the heatshrink and it just covers where the cable screen is run into a separate sleeve. No access to the internal coils. So I need at least one replacement MK1.

What @BassBunny said. The white is from the pickup and would be the hot wire so should go to the centre of the middle pot. I think the red wire goes to the centre terminal of the end (tone) pot, as long as that's not where the earth is connected to. The way the jack socket is wired up seems a little odd to me, but I'm not familiar with the conventions of VVT wiring - it will work as the two volumes and the tone are all in parallel but it seems odd to run a wire from the furthest possible point (neck volume) to the jack socket.

That's hilarious. Ha ha ha.

Who is this author Flemming?

Not paint, but I do sometimes see a lovely piece of wood that I think would make a nice bass.

There's a couple of specialist bass places: https://www.bassdirect.co.uk/ https://bassbros.co.uk/

Another vote for the Tecamp Puma 900.

It says "PROTOTYPE" on the back of the headstock. I suppose if you've go the prototype right, there won't be any changes.

How good do you think it would be if it was metal printed? Just wondering as a friend of mine does (I think) have access to a 3D metal printer...

I thought it was fixed, it's a bit strange what's up with it. Still, I can fill in other parts of the Cort Space versus Ibanez EHB1265MS comparison. Headstocks both use clamping screws, meaning double ball ends aren't used. Necks have very similar profiles - see picture above. EHB uses Bart BH2 pickups as standard (mine has Aguilar DCBs) and standard Ibanez 3-band preamp with stacked treble/bass, sweepable mids with stacked control and active/passive toggle switch Space uses Bart MK-1 pickups and standard Cort 3-band preamp with separate treble, mid, and bass, and active/passive switch with push-pull on the volume control EHB has a scalloped body to allow access to the tuners. Saddle height is adjusted by hex head screws on each side of the saddle. Intonation is adjusted by releasing a clamp screw on the bridge saddle and adjusting the position with a screw on the tuner. Space has a recess for the tuners which makes access slightly easier. Saddle height is adjusted by hex head grub screws on each side of the saddle insert. Intonation is adjusted by sliding the bridge saddle after releasing the grub screw just behind the insert, then tightening the grub screw up again. I'll do some sound samples when the pickups are sorted.

The basses I most like to play are my Seis and the Antoniotsai. That's not to say that I hate cheap basses, I just far prefer the necks on the costly ones, so it would have to be an expensive one for me.

Not even properly proofread. "Fiilters", "email of call us".