tauzero

I don't know for certain what may have caused this - however, using a Tecamp Puma 900 and a Basschat 112 at the gig I did on Saturday night, when using a particular dirty patch on my Helix I found the speaker making unpleasant noises when I played anything from bottom G or so downwards (unpleasant enough for one guitarist to comment on it). I kept away from that patch, only using clean patches, and didn't have any further problem. So I suspect it was using a patch that caused too much speaker excursion or some other physical damage to the speaker, but I don't know for sure. However, that patch is getting deleted to avoid anything similar happening, either to the BC cab or to the GR Bass once I get it back. I didn't hear any bad noises at the gig when the speaker failed, but the room we were in had a very bad resonance at low frequencies and I couldn't make out exactly what was happening on the low notes. When I put the bass into the PA, I left the Helix out completely.

About four years old - first used it somewhere round this time in 2020, used it at maybe 20 gigs since then.

Rather a shame, the top half looks lovely and if both halves were like that it could have been made into an attractive bass.

I'd be inclined to go for the Kala, but that's my personal view.

As posted by @Happy Jack in the Ebay section: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166933130243

There's a coincidence, someone was asking about cheap P basses to stick some electronics into and I mentioned the Sue Ryder.

https://www.ebay.ie/itm/175817255455 ?

AIUI, you've got a path Tuner > Octabvre > SA C4 > DHA Broken > Dyna-ssor > Joyo Monomyth > Source Audio bass zio and what you're looking for is to opt between Tuner > Octabvre > SA C4 > DHA Broken > Joyo Monomyth > Source Audio bass zio and Tuner > SA C4 > DHA Broken > Dyna-ssor > Joyo Monomyth > Source Audio bass zio As I said, I have no experience of the LS2, but couldn't you put the octave in the A loop and the dyna-ssor in the B loop and use the mode which lets you switch between them (if I've interpreted the modes correctly)?

You may want an effects switcher - with no experience whatsoever of doing this, I'd suggest having a look at the Boss LS-2 and ES-5.

Applying a little reverb to the solid bodied rubber string basses gives a more upright sound (just emulating the reverb that a hollow body gives). If you only want 4 strings, there's also the Ashbory to consider. Lined fretless, 18" scale. The earliest ones (by Guild) had ukulele tuners which are a PITA, the later Fender/DeArmond ones have conventional tuners. And there was the 22" scale Mk II (I think three of us on BC own these), and the very very rare Mk IIb - one on Ebay at the moment but I value every part of my anatomy too much to risk Mrs Zero's wrath if I should buy it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235693470683 The Bass Centre has been issuing further Ashbory derivatives too - https://www.basscentre.com/bass-centre-ashbory-bass.html

How did you do the CA coating on the fingerboard, and which CA glue did you use?

I've got the 5-string version of the Kala SUB - it's a nice instrument, can't think of any cons to it. I don't have any experience of the HB bass uke, but my experience of other HBs (guitars and basses) has been positive. Just get both.

I'd consider getting shot of the beard. I only grew it because I couldn't be arsed shaving during lockdown, and now it's much lower maintenance than shaving and Mrs Zero doesn't object too much. At 66 I think I'm a little past the point where cosmetics would be meaningful. The absence of hair doesn't help either. Best of luck with the audition.

Definitely, especially as visiting the store is appointment only so there isn't any such thing as casual footfall. Bass Direct a couple of miles up the road doesn't need appointments - it's still not exactly high street but it's possible to drop in on a whim (and leave with your wallet considerably shrunk), but even they recognised the importance of the online presence and finally updated their website.

"during 70s 80s and 90s" - so three decades of playing, five decades of possession. Presumably he got himself a proper bass 25 years ago. I wouldn't automatically assume that having no pics of the neck stamp but knowing that it's there is necessarily a sign of it being dodgy - after all, if he's ever had to adjust the truss rod, he'd have taken the neck off and seen the stamp, but wouldn't necessarily have thought to take a photo (or it might have been before digital cameras and cameras on phones). Still, he's going to find more demand for it if he does go the extra mile.

You could get some suede and stick it to the underside of the strap, seeing as that is (I think) a wide padded strap. I have a similar Lekato strap - I don't have any neck-divey basses that I use standing but I checked the strap and the neoprene/memory foam is a bit slippier than I imagined it would be.

Sue Ryder bass?

Not too shocking (not cheap though) at 160€. Top tip: TransferWise is very useful to do bank transfers to banks in forn parts.

Gorilla ones for me too, they've needed a nut and a star bolt replaced in ten years or more.

Headless bass.

Not unless I've changed gender and nationality without noticing. I suppose I should have mentioned that it was somebody else's review.

What I was trying to say earlier was that a totally rigid bridge won't absorb energy itself, so if the high mass bridge deforms less than the BBOT then it will absorb less energy itself and therefore the sustain will be greater, given that all other elements of the system remain the same.

I think it would just have to be a reasonably rigid beam, as you're looking at a comparison rather than an absolute.

They're available on Ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/387060057584

Phil's video does give thorough guidance on the assembly.