tauzero

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1673030 ?

It's just reminded me that I have a G50 transmitter that the door came off - I got a replacement door but I couldn't manage to get it exactly correct when I put it on. However, I'm taking a few Line 6 things to a former Line 6 tech who still repairs them and I'll see about burdening him with that too 😁

TBH, I'd be more worried about treading on the knobs - either me or someone else. One advantage of monitors over silent stage if you're playing crowded pubs with no raised stage is that they can be used to form a sort of barrier to offer some protection to floor-mounted equipment. See also music stands.

Leave the 115 unplugged and stand the 410 on top of it.

Could you be more specific? If you mean that you're putting your forefinger on the fret to play the note, that's a problem because you need to put your finger just behind the fret, otherwise your finger will damp the string vibrations. If you mean that you're not getting round to the string properly, make sure that your left hand is positioned so the thumb is pretty much central at the back of the neck and your left forearm is sloping upwards from the elbow.

If you look at the pictures of the amp you will see that the ventilation slots are on the sides rather than the top of the amp, so liquid ingress would rely on the beer hurling itself sideways with sufficient velocity to place a sufficient quantity of it on the PCB to cause an issue, or crawling up the pots far enough to trickle down the spindles. One of our guitarists has a pedalboard amp which he either runs to a cab or DIs to the PA. It cuts the amount of gear he lugs in by one box.

I've got a DP008EX - haven't used it much yet, keep meaning to get round to it. Easy enough to use, 8 tracks with 2 tracks simultaneously recording, so if it's just you or you plus A N Other that should suffice.

You can use a short mono jack male-female extension lead with a bug/dongle to put it on your strap or in a pocket or a convenient drug-smuggling orifice, if you feel that way inclined. I've got several, including a couple of bug types [1]. If you're using a pedalboard, the mains adaptor powered ones are convenient as you don't have to mess around recharging the receiver. Conversely, if you're going straight into an amp or a single effects pedal, the bug type is more convenient as you don't have to plug it in to a power source. [1] Line 6 G50, Smoothhound, Harley Benton Airborne Pro, Muslady, Lekato WS-50, all 2.4GHz except the HB and Lekato which are 5.8GHz. All work well.

I've just been reminded by another post - I think it was called the Coach House. Engineer was, IIRC, Rob.

I hung on to my Tecamp Puma 900 because it's such a wonderful little amp, although I'd bought a GR Bass combo. It turned out to be a good decision as I've started doing an open mic night which doesn't have a regular bassist, so I'm taking along the very portable Puma 900 plus BC house jam microcab. I can carry both of them plus my little bag of bits in one hand.

Did you run it through an amp model as well or just straight out?

I don't recall seeing a natural finish Riverhead before. I fancy a 5-string version of that (which I don't think was ever made).

Any help?

All my fretless basses have roundwounds on. Don't be afraid to use them if you want to.

I'm glad they listened to my advice.

I don't want to come across as too negative on this, it looks like a clever idea but there are some things which could be improved.

You would have to worry about getting your hand round the neck though. It would be very close to rectangular cross-section. And the torsion isn't lateral so the additional width wouldn't be that helpful.

Something that could be a bit awkward is that the pickups are on the underside of the pickup cover, so the cover isn't optional. A piezo bridge could solve that. Also, the bridge is a simple non-intonatable one.

The description says it's all printed (barring the Al extrusion and hardware). Don't know about the frets (pre-placed slots and hammer in the frets?), and looks as if the nut has a metal rod running across it. Presumably the neck is actually two side fillets which are secured to the extrusion, possibly by having tangs on the fillets which slide onto the extrusion. I would think that a 2020 extrusion backbone would make it even more suitable for a headless build than a headed one as there wouldn't be the tuners hanging off the side of the headstock, all the load would be directly along the backbone and only exerted on it.

That seems a reasonable list of four basses to start with.

I think if I hadn't got another 5-string just after I bought a Squier V (which was P-bodied but J-pickuped, can't remember the name of the model now) then I probably wouldn't have switched. The other one, a Vietnamese Antoniotsai, had an excellent neck which I really got on with - the Squier didn't, and got moved on soon afterwards. the 4-string that these were competing with was a 1987 Warwick Thumb with a very slender neck, the nicest 4-string I've ever played, so any putative 5-string replacement also had to be very playable. Since then, I've bought a couple of Seis which also have really nice necks, and a couple of Ibanezes which are almost as good. The point I am laboriously getting to is that if you are contemplating a move to a 5-string, get one that you find really comfortable to play.

I was recording at one studio, in the control room, which had a lot of electronic equipment in it and the active bass I'd taken was picking up interference. The engineer offered me the studio bass, a Squier P, which would have been fine if I played a 4-string not a 5-string and liked playing basses which would be better suited to firing arrows. So I got my passive bass out and it was fine (I preferred the neck on the active one). An alternative would have been to go into the main studio - in fact, I'd rather have gone out and played on the street than play the studio bass.

I remember some idiot bassist playing an A instead of a C on one track, then, thinking it was done, wandering off with the drummer to get a burger. He came back to find that the guitarist had cunningly played an Am rather than a C major to cover it up. Yes folks, I was that bassist. Another band went in to a studio that was in its embryonic stages, in a big house in Lichfield that belonged to the studio engineer/producer's parents. We asked for a four-way mains extension (yes, we should have been a bit better prepared) and said engineer gave us a 4-way that didn't have a cable and then a mains plug attached to a lead which had another mains plug at the other end, so one plug could be plugged into the 4-way and the other end into the wall. I flat out refused to touch the plug to plug lead.

You could see if he'd post this one: https://reverb.com/uk/item/76002235-tecamp-puma-350w-bass-amp-head-2000-s Or there's https://www.bassdirect.co.uk/product/warwick-gnome-i-pro-600/ Any bass amp should cope with a 5-string, it's the speaker that's the limiting factor. And you could use a more powerful amp, I use my Tecamp Puma 900 with the BC house jam micro cab (100W).

I forgot to mention one thing - when I was 21, I got beaten up and the carpal bone for my index finger on my right hand was broken. It healed a little bent, so my right forefinger is a little shorter than it should be and at least half a centimetre lower, which means that rapid alternate plucking is a bit impaired.