tauzero

I should add: it's really fiddly soldering to barrel jack sockets in situ. If the wires to the socket aren't long enough to be able to dangle it out of the bass body and do your soldering there, extend them a bit. Just don't forget to thread the nut onto the wires inside the body before soldering them in place.

It might be worth adding the 5.8GHz band, which I assume is also free to use. Or maybe it isn't, Ofcom seems to say one thing, while GAK says it doesn't need a licence (https://www.gak.co.uk/en/wireless-systems?stockonly=false&layout=grid, near the bottom, "What is a Channel 38 licence and do I need one?"). Looking at https://www.cablefree.net/wirelesstechnology/unlicensed-wireless-links/using-the-5ghz-band-in-the-uk/, I assume that 5GHz wireless systems would use bands A or B and therefore be licence free.

I have gradually accumulated a vast amount of straps with straplocks on because buying complete Schaller straplocks isn't much more expensive than buying just the buttons. However, I did find some Schaller compatible buttons for a far better price on Ebay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134929630460 I've checked these with both Mk I and S-Lock Schallers, and they work with both. They came with a pair of chrome screws and a pair of black screws - the black screws were larger than the chrome screws and perfect for my application. They're only in chrome - I have found black ones available from Australia (still cheaper than buying genuine Schallers) - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121810656520, though I haven't bought any so they are untested by me. Avoid anything described as "Schaller style" if you want to use them with genuine Schaller locks or buttons, they work the same way but the dimensions are far enough off so they're incompatible.

And I've been doing so well on the 2024 gear abstinence challenge.

"Shall we give it a pre-57 Precision headstock or post-57? I know, let's do both".

Presumably the C string is the intonation reference, hence not needing an adjuster. Just move the bridge to correctly intonate the C string and then, er, intonate all the others.

There's an entire production line at Hofner turning out stolen Macca basses. It's like the fragments of the true cross - Jesus would have needed a low-loader to have carried a cross weighing 65 tonnes.

Is it the X-USB Audio Driver v5.12.0? Download is working from the Behringer site. PS. You are trying to download it by clicking the download icon rather than right-clicking the icon and doing "Save as", aren't you? You have to accept the agreement that you get when you left click the icon.

You could see if you could get a direct replacement off Reverb - at least it's plug-and-play. The vast amount of spaghetti is because of the buffers - they prevent the pickups interacting with the volume and blend controls. The average preamp has the pickups going into the blend and volume controls, then to the preamp, tone controls wired to that, then out to the jack. These Barts with onboard buffers have the pickups going into the preamp, then back out to the blend and volume, then back in to the preamp with the tone controls, and finally out to the jack.

I would use the term "saddle insert" for the black bit and "saddle" for the whole block. Hipshot uses this terminology - https://www.bassdirect.co.uk/product/hipshot-kickass-saddle-set/

I'd be inclined to open the casing (if you can) and instead of re-using the insert, get a flanged nut of the same thread size and put that in place of the insert with the flange on the inside of the case, fixed in place using Araldite, the goddess of repairs.

Not offhand, but I'm sure it was a decently high impedance for the piezo as I'm aware of that need.

The preamp may well be dodgy. I'm pretty sure that Bart preamp will be similar to a Bart preamp that was once fitted to my Sei - the pickups are wired direct to buffers in the preamp, then the two buffer outputs go to the blend control. It sounds as if something funny is happening involving a capacitor in the neck buffer, though I can't be more specific than that. The solution for mine was replacing the preamp (with a Delano Sonar).

And then use the rifle for relicing?

I use acetone for some things but I wouldn't use it on anything plasticy as it's an extremely good solvent (splashed a bit on a PC keyboard when I was removing sticky from some headless bridge tuners, I think it's still usable).

The cheap piezo bridges off Ebay were crap. I have a couple knocking around somewhere, I tried them and the sound was very scratchy, for want of a better word - no bass and the tone was very gritty and low fi.

That intonation looks a bit out...

Drummer could mic his drums up into a separate mixer and run the output from it into the main mixer, so he buys the drum mixer and drum mics. They might want different mixes for IEMs - there might just be one monitor output on the current desk or there might be a couple of Aux ouputs.

They are, and that's just the 8" ones.

I'm not sure that it is the fault of the bean counters. Fender (and, in the bike world, Harley-Davidson) have attempted the occasional innovation but they have been marketing flops as their core customers are utterly resistant to change.

It's just gear snobbery. I wonder how many avid Class AB devotees would be able to distinguish an AB from a D in a blind test. Assuming that the blind test didn't include picking the amp up.

The Alto TS408s that I use are (according to Alto) 2000W peak, 1000W RMS. I will say that they're mind-buggeringly loud if you're standing a couple of metres from one and the guitard plugs in a guitar that he hasn't set the volume correctly on.

Isn't the port that horizontal slot at the bottom? I had an idea that the bike park slot was some sort of speaker loading system, like horn loading but more primitive - @Bill Fitzmaurice would be able to answer that, he's done a lot of horn loaded designs.

If it does, it means it can be used by a leftie as well as a rightie.

Has anyone here tried any of the luminous acrylic paints?