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Everything posted by tauzero
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All the old pictures of the bridge have gone - I'm curious as to whether the screws going towards the bridge saddle pivots are grub screws to hold the pivots in place or whether they bear on protrusions on the pivot piece and push them against string tension, which would avoid any problem with slippage that a grub screw would have.
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Insertion Loss - is the EMG abc control the answer?
tauzero replied to Pirellithecat's topic in Repairs and Technical
Or, just to stop the sound and fury signifying nothing, get a dual buffer Bartolini AGDB. https://bartolini.net/product/agb/ - product details (AGB is single buffer, AGDB is dual) https://bartolini.net/wp-content/uploads/Docs/Electronics/Buffers/AGDB-918-2-V-B-T.pdf - shows how to connect V-B-T. Note that Bartolini don't say it's for their pickups. 🏁 -
Pickup alignment for multi scale basses
tauzero replied to bigbadbbass's topic in Repairs and Technical
They'd only be most even if they were placed where the frets are perpendicular to the strings. If they were to be equivalent to JJ pickups, they'd have to be slanted so that the ratio of string lengths nut-pickup and pickup-bridge are the same for each string (like the Ibanez EHB). Having the pickups perpendicular to the strings would make the bass strings bassier and the treble strings treblier, like the way that a standard split P pickup works but with a smoother transition across strings. -
Our guitarist gets the 1800 until he buys his own.
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Pickup alignment for multi scale basses
tauzero replied to bigbadbbass's topic in Repairs and Technical
I've just remembered that I commented on pickup placement in a fan-fret bass - see -
Pickup alignment for multi scale basses
tauzero replied to bigbadbbass's topic in Repairs and Technical
Don't forget that some basses have slanted pickups (Ritter and Warwick, with Warwick even having differently slanted and placed pickups on the 4-string and 5-string Thumbs) so that may be another factor to consider when deciding on your slant. It so happens that I have an Ibanez EHB1265MS to hand, and measuring the bridge pickup (where the difference will be most marked), the width across the strings measured perpendicular to the strings (ie string spacing) is 72mm, giving a string spacing of 18mm, and the width across the strings measured along the centre line of the pickup is 78mm. That would be the equivalent of a string spacing of 19.5mm, so a pickup that could accommodate that would be fine for a 5-string. The Ibanez hasn't got quite such an exaggerated fan as Dingwalls, though, so that's another consideration. -
Oh, and for any Duo owners - the manual update wipes all user data, contrary to what it says in the guide.
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V1.13.3 has just been released. Old Duo has to be updated manually. https://forum.mod.audio/t/release-1-13-3/10353
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That nut does look a bit wonky, which means (if it is) that the original slot was cut wonky.
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Pedulla Truss Rod Tool - suitable Alternative?
tauzero replied to dyerseve's topic in General Discussion
@Hellzero pointed me towards one which does do the job - it's a 3/16" tuning peg (American so out of step with the rest of the world), a Grover 8020 does the job. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Grover-8020-Autoharp-Tuning-Hammer/dp/B0002F7IEE (it's actually a black plastic handle). In case you don't already know, the truss rod is the reverse of conventional (clockwise to loosen) and it's got a very strong action so when you might expect to put a half turn on a non-Pedulla truss rod, you'll probably need an eighth of a turn on the Pedulla. -
I've done it for a couple of images - it's quite a bit of faff as you have to edit the post as well as loading and resaving the image. It's only an issue when pasting an image directly, as the image is saved as image.png which isn't particularly well compressed.
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Miraculously, our vocalist provides his own mic - not sure what it is. I do backing vocals for all but one song - I use a Behringer XM8500. The other guitarist uses whatever I give him until he gets his own mic - that's one of my box of three Behringer XM1800ses.
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I have an elderly Huawei tablet which I bought for running the mixer app a while ago, then I didn't use my PA for some time. Starting again, I bought a new tablet but I used the old one - two gigs, three hours with the app in the foreground and no other app, display permanently on except during the interval, no recharge between gigs, still had 35% or so in the battery.
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I've just shimmed mine with a .5 degree shim. Without tuning up and adjusting the bridge saddles the angle seems just right - with saddles fully lowered, B and G strings are just off the fretboard and E, A and D are flat on it. After tuning up and adjusting the bridge saddles, it's not bad - slight fret buzz on a couple of strings at the 11th fret. Original strings still on it, they're not very nice so I'll change them in the near future and see if I can tweak the truss rod enough to mitigate the buzz.
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Lovely. Just one string too few.
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Would that just affect the post I'm editing? I'm thinking of cases where I've used the same attachment in a number of posts - would I have to edit all of them?
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I think the Variax power has +9V on the ring (the floor box is compatible with the older Variaxes which were 9V) and there would need to be some sort of detection of +9V on the ring which would switch to using on-board battery if a jack is plugged in, assuming the same approach as for the Variax, so not a straightforward change. The power requirement for a Variax is comparatively huge though, the average bass will use vastly less than that.
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Ordered online, there's a right to a full refund with no reason being given up to 14 days. Then during the first six months, if there's a fault which can't be repaired and the item can't be replaced, there's a right to a full refund. So if it's returned in perfect working order, there's no right of refund.
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A minor quibble with the new website is the title for each bass. For some, the year comes first, for others the make and model. I think make and model should always come first, including number of strings and whether it's fretless, then year, then colour, then if it's pre-owned.
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I think (ICBW) that commuting, in insurance terms, means travel between home and a fixed place of work. For my last job, I had to have business insurance (Direct Line, zero extra cost) so I could drive to a different office.