tauzero

I didn't want to do it when it was suggested by one band as it just strikes me as racist.

Done

Well, the fact it was being pulled across by the tuner wouldn't have helped - taking the A string off the tuner so you could get a straighter run would help, or even putting it onto the D tuner to get a true representation. And if you get a B string, by whatever means, before taking it anywhere, you could see if the B fits in the nut as well which would save you 25 euros plus postage.

I don't think you have a legal leg to stand on - see https://johnpye.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/John_Pye_Auctions_TC.pdf section 7. Although unlike Gardiner Houlgate, they don't give you an option to request a condition report. Gardiner Houlgate say for any mains-powered electrical item "*Please note: Gardiner Houlgate do not guarantee the full working order of any electrical items. Do not assume that this lot or any other electrical item is fully working. Please ask for a condition report before placing any kind of bid", which I have done for various items - a typical report for an amp is "This item is in good working condition. No pot noise or crackles."

Sub Zero (29) litters his speech with it. I remember it being in vogue in the 70s, along with flares. I'd rather have the flares.

From @SimonK, not the OP.

You might even be able to use the existing JAN screws as it looks like you have a bit of clearance on them. You could easily check by seeing if the D string would fit into the G string slot and so on.

I've got a couple of truss rods to adjust and as I'm waiting for strings before I do one and I want to get some momentum before tackling the other, here are my truss rod adjustments from easiest to hardest. Headless bass with truss rod adjustment at the unheadstock end, generally a 4mm hex key - easy, but you need to know which way to turn it Truss rod wheel (why did Cort use that on the headless Space 4 and 5 when they could have put a 4mm adjuster at the other end of the neck?) Headed bass with uncovered adjuster at headstock end Hex key adjuster at body end (why did Ibanez use that on the headless EHBs?) Headed bass with covered adjuster at headstock end, with extra points if the adjuster requires a special tool (Pedulla, and their truss rod turns in the unconventional direction too) and the following sub-categories: Pivoting cover section (Ibanez SRF705, don't know about others) Tool-free removable cover section (Warwick) - just be careful not to lose that bit Truss rod cover held on with screws - bonus points for using multiple screws, the worst so far has been Esh with four (guess which bass I need to get a bit of momentum up for?) And finally, and I'm so glad I don't have any of these any more, the awful ones that you have to take the neck off to adjust It also helps to know which way to turn the truss rod. My Warwicks and Seis and the Pedulla all need the adjuster turning anticlockwise to tighten the truss rod (decrease relief), everything else is the other way. Any other truss rod adjustment types? I haven't included double truss rods as they're just two of the same, nor have I mentioned having to bend Rickenbacker necks in order to tighten the truss rod as I've never owned one so never had to perform that operation.

Assuming it's a JAN I that you've got in there, one of these: https://shop.warwick.de/ersatzteile-fuer-instrumente/teile-fuer-e-baesse/saettel/warwick-parts-just-a-nut-replacement-nut-screw-wide-slot-b-string

Have you tried putting a 4mm in there? There's an initial round hollow bit (which a 5mm would go into) followed by the 4mm bit (which a 5mm wouldn't). Everybody in the civilised world uses 4mm. Hohner use 4mm on the B2.

Can cultural appropriation exist in a truly multicultural society?

I've rather fancied one for ages. Just got to see if the 35" scale causes any issues, given that my other fretlesses are 34". At least it's not a 42" scale...

That Zombie is applicable (as @tegs07 said) to any conflict situation where there's an unquestioning force doing evil things. Another Zombie (by the Cranberries) was about a specific conflict and its aftermath, and I don't hear anyone English doing any sort of introduction for it to give the context (it gets played a lot at open mics).

It's tone plywood.

I wouldn't call it hideous, but it does suffer from the fact that Les Paul came up with one of the most attractive guitar shapes ever and anything that bears a faint resemblance but is out of proportion seems really really wrong. Plus the control section of the scratchplate is truly horrendous.

I bought the Ray5 a little while ago with the intention of replacing the preamp and possibly the pickup. My initial installation of a preamp made on an OSH Park PCB didn't work, which subsequently I suspect was due to a flat battery (doh!). I bought a Classic Preamp kit from Musikding and installed that instead. I put a connector on the PCB and the battery clip so I could remove the entire scratchplate if necessary without any unsoldering. When I got the Squier Vintage Modified Modified, it had a Warman MM pickup in the bridge position. As the pole pieces weren't best spaced for it, I replaced it with an Aguilar MM pickup which was a far better fit, leaving me with a Warman pickup with both coils nicely accessible. So I connected the coils in parallel and replaced the original pickup with that. Again, that was fitted with a connector with the bridge wire going to the ground side. The pots have 1/4" shafts which aren't as easy to get knobs for as 6mm shafts. Bloody primitive measuring systems. However, I did find a set of brass flat top knobs on Ebay which look rather nice on it. I'm pleased with the sound. Will be doing some more playing around.

When I got the OLP Tony Levin, I hadn't realised that it was missing a truss rod wheel. But it was, and I needed to adjust the truss rod. I took the neck off and checked the truss rod end, which took a 4mm hex key. Grainger Guitar Parts sell truss rod wheel adaptors to fit 4mm adjusters, so I bought one (and then found that the short one that I'd bought was too short, so bought the standard one). The scratchplate covers part of the cutout for the truss rod wheel, and as the adaptor is longer than the original, it fouled the scratchplate. So I needed to do a little Dremelling. Trimmed scratchplate: Neck installed: Strung up: And everything works as it should.

Mine is a nice snug 4mm. Go smaller.

What is the bass? Which way are you turning the truss rod?

Apparently less abrasive to the fingerboard too.

Must keep away from the Gardiner Houlgate auctions, they're a dangerous place for me, or at least for the integrity of my anatomy if I keep buying basses and can't manage to sell any. Went down to near Bath to pick up this lovely Shuker Uberhorn today. Body: African blackwood topped mahogany body Neck: seven piece wenge/mahogany with CF strengthening rods, 35" scale Fretboard: phenolic resin Electrics: concealed EMG pickup system and Graphtech piezo saddles All in an original branded Hiscox hard case. There's also a card from WM Guitars whose hands it has obviously passed through giving the specs (and the price they sold it for). The strings are described as D'Addario tapewounds in the WM Guitars description, and that's still what's on it, looking a bit worn, especially the long thumb rest string. It will be getting some nickel rounds. The action is ridiculously high, mainly (I think) due to the relief being absolutely huge. The battery is in quite reasonable nick, should get a bit of use out of it. There's a couple of little dings around the edge but nothing major. For some reason, it hasn't got straplocks on it, which I see as a significant omission to be rectified very soon. Pictures are from the Shuker website and the auction website. When I summon up a bit of energy, I'll take some more.

I use rounds. That's just me though.

You can often find the shop that's selling the bass from the seller information and then go direct to them.

"Growler" was the official name for the bonnet emblem up until the JJ rebrand in 2024. Let's hope Elon Musk doesn't buy Jaguar, he'd bring back the "Swallow Sidecars" name and the "SS" emblem.

Zoom B3 or B3n - the B3n has the advantage of being easier to switch patches. You can also edit patches on a PC which is quite simple to do.