Monckyman

Yarp!

Shunned?? Cheeky twat.

As Bert sez, there's a manual in PDF online, try resetting to factory, sounds like some levels and routing has either been edited badly, or become corrupted in the internal memory.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1402597711' post='2475215'] [/size] Don't leave your car in a multi-storey car park. It's wrong on so many different levels... [/quote]

A lot of love for the Sennheiser e range for Vox also. Might suggest you find a decent graphic EQ to help smooth any hot frequencies in the rig and the rooms the rig is in.

So, imagine what the ACS plugs with proper valves in would do for you. Quieter, but with all the frequencies still there.

Bet that one with the gaping gash sounds great. Think maybe he's fibbing.

Aah him.. He's a liar!

Who's jaco?

>odd nob ;0

I've been experimenting with my lot lately, as we are considering IEMs for singer,guitarist and drummer. So, we do have an E kit, which makes it all possible but he still likes to be pretty loud in his 15"400watt wedge. What i have been doing is, before each rehearsal, over the last 3 weeks, just knocking master levels on wedges and FOH back a bit. After 3 weeks i got a "It's a bit quiet tonight" type comments, but once we played one song, we instantly got used to it. I did later knock it back up a little, for some vibe, you really can't play some stuff that quietly, but, basically, we have a clear as glass mix, can instantly hear if anything pops out of the mix, like a key part or guitar riff, and nobody needs earplugs. This would still work with a real kit, because you probably are all playing louder than you need to, as it creeps up without anyone regulating it. This is just best practice with noise anyway, but it really gets people disciplined when they know any obvious volume change will be noticed. I'm sorry for all of you in bands with people who insist they have to play loud to make it work. They are wrong. Btw, try standing in front of an AC30 and tell me it isn't very loud. I have to use a power soak on one client in large venues, just to be able to mix it properly.

Is a good thing, they take it seriously, which is good for you should you join them.

Utter bastards! Right, from your breathless one sentence with a comma in it, am going to presume you mean can you use your p.a and add a little low end by utilising your bass rig as the "sub"? If so, yes, set the p.a as normal with some bangin choons. Also,bypass or flatten off the bass rig EQ. Use one of the monitor or aux out jack sockets and connect that to the input of your bass rig, turn the rig on, set at a low ish vol, play some tunes through a couple of chans on the desk, and turn the aux send on those chans up on the desk till you can hear it through your bass rig. Adjust to taste. Hth

[quote name='TheRev' timestamp='1402248476' post='2471339'] I haven't tried anything other than the main inputs and levels. We're going to email Thomann and see if they'll take it back as its less than 2 years old. [/quote] Fair play, def worth a go! Good luck!

Sorry but it doesn't matter. It's over with that mixer,for the cost of the repair you are definitely better off replacing rather than repairing. Have you at least tried PFLing any channels on headphones and checking the signal path? Sounds like a power stage problem to me, but you wont know till you check the signal path at least.

In my experience the 1501s had insecure capacitors on spindly legs and weren't supported by glue etc, so when a leg failed it would take out the power amp. Zillions of posts about them being expensive to repair and most people de amped them and ran them passive. I quite like their sound, and of course they are lighter with no amp.

I gave 2 to my daughter (who plays)in a sort of bass accounting dodge so they are not really mine anymore honest. One in bits in the loft, oh, another on in the loft, one ready to be tarted up, and two that get gigged all the time. So two. Really.