grandad

Thanks for the link.

Just re-discovered 'Got To Get You Into My Life' from Revolver. Nice descent in it, (Bm Bb+ A G#m7).

[quote name='jezzaboy' timestamp='1474398866' post='3137750'] I am reading a book by session player Martin Kershaw and he states that at the time, Abbey road was just another studio and not the hallowed ground that it is now considered to be. Me, I love the Beatles especially the first 3 or 4 albums. Poptastic!! [/quote] http://www.reuters.com/article/us-britain-hands-abbeyroad-idUSTRE65A0QH20100611

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psX3dR6pLyI

[url="http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/vintageguitar/201611_v2/index.php#/10"]http://www.nxtbook.c...2/index.php#/10[/url]

To my ears Ringo's style was measured and economical which is an approach I adopt to playing bass where I try to sit in the mix rather than cut through, only noticed if you're not there.

That looks a beauty, nice wood. I have a soft spot for these, the McCartney connection I expect. Not a Hofner I'm afraid but I have an Epiphone Viola MIC. The wood and finish are excellent. The tone is full strung with flats, RS77M. To achieve a decent action along the fretboard my luthier modified the bridge, shaving the height. He also reduced the screw height to make damping comfortable. It is now a favourite noodling instruments, so light and with a lovely action, though I don't think I'd gig with it.

http://www.spectator.co.uk/2015/07/copyright-the-great-rocknroll-swindle/ http://www.spectator.co.uk/2015/07/ringos-no-joke-he-was-a-genius-and-the-beatles-were-lucky-to-have-him/

Just tried a change of strings on my Mustang. I was ok with Rotosound RS77M, (40 50 75 90) but discovered that La Bella make a set specifically for the Mustang, 760F-MUS, (43 60 82 104), so coughed up £44.99. The La Bella have a longer silk on the ball end to accomadate the string-through body. The tension to me seemed lower. I recall that tension depends on length, gauge and core string material. Anyway having failed to achieve a decent setup it's now with a Luthier. The difference in tension was quite apparent and initially I felt uncomfortable with the new "feel" of the instrument. The question of string tension has never really cropped up with me before but this recent episode has illustrated just how important it is in getting it right. If I'm not happy with them I can go back to the Roto's. This question of which are the right strings for you and the particular instrument is an expensive minefield.

The catagories, pro, seml-pro and hobbyist do not describe skill level. They may imply it in common usage. Neither do they provide a measure of zeal or passion for our art.

[quote name='Stealth' timestamp='1471071531' post='3110302'] I had one for a while the 2x8 version great little practice amp fo home and quiet rehearsals hook it up to a bigger cab and it will cover most gigs. Never missed a beat [/quote] Same here.

"In between living your dream and reality lies hunger". That's a quote I forget from where.

- a large % of cash from income earned elsewhere = the majority of us due to GAS inflicted by this infectious forum.

I offer the following definitions: 1. Pro = main activity and main source of income. 2. Semi-pro = engaged in the activity and paid but not relying on the activity solely to earn a living. 3. Amateur = unpaid. 4. Wanabe = someone who aspires to 1. or 2. (usually derogatory and implying ineptitude). 5. Hobbyist = activity pursued outside one's main occupation and pursued primarily for pleasure.

First picked a bass up aged 50+. Weekend warrior in a 60's cover band for 10yrs-ish. Now help run a music club at community centre. Deputising in a Jazz quintet. Love music as my retirement hobby.

Idiomatic awareness is important if you want it to be. I remember my brother buying a copy of Astral Weeks when it came out. Then, Van was just that bit different and he did push popular music forward and maybe broadened popular taste. Yes, I would say he transcends musical genres. Moondance is was it is on the record and freely available for you to play with and around and change it if you fancy. As with any Art form, as soon as you make a rule or say you shouldn't do this or should do that then someone will break it or do it or not. And I think that's intrinsic to it's nature and as it should be. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Van_Morrison

Recently learned this to play as an instrumental with an amateur jazz quintet. I simplified the bass line as much as I could and it took a few practices to get the tempo and drumming right. With rhythm guitar, sax and trumpet I like it and it usually gets a round of applause. Maybe in time I'll become jaded.

It sounds like a Bose or Yamaha Stagepas 600i might suit your needs, they are both well worth a look.

My cable case is the heaviest item to lug about, (PA/monitor leads inc'). I use 1.0, 1.25 or 1.5mm, any/all are fine. Speakon connectors are very well designed and making a good connection is relatively straight forward. When it comes to making a good sound connection on a speaker lead with a 1/4" jack I now only use these: [url="http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/0166327/?grossPrice=Y&cm_mmc=UK-PLA-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Connectors-_-Audio_And_Video_Connectors&mkwid=szWhQSJqO_dc|pcrid|88056666003|pkw||pmt||prd|0166327&gclid=Cj0KEQjw8pC9BRCqrq37zZil4a0BEiQAZO_zrIohoeFhsajYE60CfSLzoq-gJSlHTfSvl_yclLtKAyUaAkNX8P8HAQ"]http://uk.rs-online....KAyUaAkNX8P8HAQ[/url] I can get a decent soldered joint and the strain relief is better than the crimped.

I use 5A fuses in all my kettle leads. 10A/13A I use only for mains extention leads. Useful fuse rating table: 13A - 3000W 10A - 2400W 5A - 1200W 3A - 700W Mains flex should always be fused wrt the csa of the cable: mm2 1.5 - 15A - 3600W 1.25 - 13A - 3120W 1.0 - 10A - 2400W - most Euromain/IEC cold connector type C13 or kettle leads. 0.75 - 6A - 1440W 0.5 - 3A - 720W But it's difficult to gauge the csa just by looking and more often than not a 10A cable is fused at 13A, (apparently this is acceptable practice where short kettle leads are used, 2m or less I think. Some low power devices tend to blow 3A fuses due to the surge current at switch on so need a 5A rather than 3A. All electric devices put out less power than is put in over time. They are less than 100% efficient and power is lost mainly in the form of heat. An amplifier rated at say 70W at the mains input can temporarily store up electrical energy and deliver say 250W output to the speaker but only in short bursts. Over time the output would be less than 70W. A useful page: [url="http://www.leadsdirect.co.uk/technical-library/mains-wiring/iec-connectors/"]http://www.leadsdire...iec-connectors/[/url] Look out for those low current fig 8 leads and cloverleaf, 3A max fuse I guess would be ok. It's good to have electrical safety posts from time to time.

Thank you, just a perfect fit bass line.

Can anyone tell me the name of the bassist? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tnRMZyaWPE

Use RS77M on my Epi' Viola, very pleased. It's my noodling at home bass.

[url="http://www.iguitarmag.com/magazine-editions/guitar-interactive-issue-23/reviews/peavey-max-115-combo/"]http://www.iguitarma...-max-115-combo/[/url] We use 2 older models at our music club, the Max160 head into a 115 and a TKO115 combo. Peavey are reliable plug and play workhorses.