Andyjr1515

@PaulThePlug 's suggestion to the method is pretty spot on, but yes, I agree - if it plays OK and there is no evidence it's a new issue - sometimes these things are best left alone.

Absolutely splendid!!

Hi John I'm not doing any building at the moment but that's good to know - I'll pop your details in my 'Useful Contacts' book 👍 Andy

You are very kind, @Hellzero. And, @Bass Wielder, I would normally JUMP at the chance - that looks a lovely bass indeed But, with regret, I am going to have to pass on this one. The pesky hand arthritis is throwing its toys out of the pram at the moment and I've had to drop all fretboard & fret work (in fact, just at the moment, almost all building and fettling stuff). Hopefully another Basschatter will be able to step in (worth looking through the 'Basschatters willing/able to help other Basschatters' section on the forum) because I reckon we would all like to see this bass back in action Andy

Hi, @julesb I'm not sure that Warwick trussrods are any different in effectiveness or reliability that any other commercial offering for two way rods out there. And the advantage of using a Warwick one in a Warwick is that you absolutely know they are going to fit. Over the years, I have fitted pretty much every rod maker's products and quite a few of them need slightly different chiselling because of subtle differences in their dimensions. That is fine if you are fitting them pre-fretboard gluing...but more of an issue if one gets stuck halfway through inserting them in the Warwick system. Ref 'multiple failure', then I think the clue is in your observation that the presently failed one is upside down. In my earlier ventures, I came across a similar reversed one in what should have been a 'standard' bass (ie not Rickenbacker/Gillett, etc that do have reverse actions) - and it surprised me how much bend I'd inflicted before I twigged that the gap was, indeed, getting bigger! So, if a previous owner who maybe wasn't familiar with trussrods had replaced the original broken one upside down, and then had just followed the instructions of 'righty tighty', it's entirely possible that it would have weakened it by the time that it was realised that it needed to work the other way. Hope this helps Andy

I'm afraid that USA are still fully Imperial Units for size and distance measurements. So yes, all Made-In-USA instruments will be inches and fractions of an inch for spanners, sockets and allen keys for, not only bridges, but all other hardware too...

Bass sounds great! Some nice playing there too...

Splendid!

Remember to vacuum the cavities and work area well when working with carbon fibre - the dust and fibres is/are very conductive... Looks splendid, btw...

I lacquer first and then fret. Pros and cons, though...

You can do it either way. Pros and cons but both work OK

Congrats, @Basvarken , for your No Treble 'Bass of the Week ' Very, very well deserved. And, as a 5 times winner of Bass of the Week...your build STILL blows my socks off!!!

That is stunning. As a builder myself, this blows my socks off!

If you have a small-tipped soldering iron, hold the tip in the screw head cross-slot for 30 seconds or so, then let it cool for a couple of minutes and try it with firm pressure applied, from a correct size cross-head screwdriver, as you turn it. There is the risk that the plastic cover will soften a touch, but that's a lesser risk than rounding the crosshead... This is the standard method of removing snapped-off screws too...