Andyjr1515

With black stain it should be OK, but always useful to have a backup plan 🙂

Also, with a body, you have to be absolutely sure that you are down to bare wood before you start staining. If it is a previously finished one, it can look like you are down to bare wood but there is often residue of clear original sealers, etc. And no stain will cover those areas evenly. But the same can happen with brand new, unfinished, bodies. The test is to get a damp cloth and wipe it all over. Clean bare wood will soak the moisture in and darken - any residue and the moisture will not soak in and will show up as light patches. If you try to stain this, you will always have a slightly blotchy, uneven colour. Preparing a body for a stained finish is surprisingly hard work!

Looks absolutely splendid

This

Ah - should have added, 'pop a strip of masking tape over the area with the screw sticking through, and then...'

Yes - I do the same. I look for a 'just perceptible' movement of the string when tapped in the middle between the 1st and 15th/16th. Basically, I'm aiming for a fretboard as flat as possible...but without any back bow. And the only way of knowing for sure that there is no backbow is if you have a 'just perceptible' gap signifying a teeny bow-and-arrow forward bow. I know of no reason why the relief would need to be different with a different fretboard radius for a bass unless - perhaps - the player does string multi-semitone string bends on a tight radius fretboard.

To be honest, with a standard varnished Squier neck, it is usually not economic to get the trussrod fixed as there tend to be decent second hand or even new replacements around at a similar cost...and there is always a question of why it broke in the first place.

As the saying goes, 'until it's just hot enough'. Hot soldering iron tip to broken end of screw, try 30 seconds. You can go a bit longer but you don't really want to char the threads in the wood if you want to use the same hole for the replacement screw

Sorry I'm a bit late to the party. ABSOLUTELY this ^^^^ Very unlikely not to work. Get the screw stub nice and hot then, as @SpondonBassed says, let it cool and then it should come out pretty easily with just a pair of needle-nosed pliers

Yup - another endorsement for Andre and his products here

It was my pleasure, Mick Andy

For those who don't remember the tome that accompanied the build, by the way, I should explain that the inspirational bit was entirely @TheGreek 's . When I try to create a bit of inspiration, it usually ends up like this

Love 'em!

That would be @TheGreek 's inspirational Psilos, Frank

Yes - I reckon a lot of folks would be interested how it goes. And it sounds a nice bass...and all nice basses demand a thread