Andyjr1515

Yes - I use a similar method. I actually solder the wire to the copper tape, then cut an 'arrow head' in the copper to allow me to pull the earth wire and solder joint back into the hole so the bridge only has the copper tape between it and the bass/guitar body.

Nice work and lovely result I notice that you had filled the bridge earth hole in one of the shots. Is the bridge earthed?

Splendid, @Dom in Dorset Looks super good!

For my personal guitars and basses, there aren't many that I haven't done this to, @Owen. And where practicable, I have always favoured doing it for custom builds too. It usually isn't the actual depth that is the issue to the player (and there be dragons in the spine zone), but instead it is the 'haunches' either side of the neck spine that generally makes the biggest difference. That can make a MASSIVE difference to the feel of the bass or guitar. I have been able to show more than one player that the 'slimmest of the necks that they have ever played' is actually deeper than the rest of their collection. So when I have ever built a bass or guitar for myself, I carve the neck close to what 'feels right' but then, when it is fully finished, strung up and in tune, I play it, then twist it round like a back to front cello and shave material off the haunches from the heel to the nut, either side of the central spine. Then I play it, then turn it round and shave some more off until it 'feels right'. Finally I re-do the slurry and buff and by the next day of it hardening off, I have a fully playable bass or guitar. It's clearly a little more involved if it's a varnished neck, but you can do the same with those. Tone-wise, I've never been aware of any major difference unless the spine itself is reduced - and never do that unless you know exactly how deep the trussrod slot is...

Flattery will, of course, generally get you everywhere with @Andyjr1515 , @AndyTravis Many thanks for the endorsement Sadly, @Beedster, I will have to side-step this one. The old hand-arthritis (the hands are old as well as the arthritis ) is causing issues at the moment and I've had to drop fret and neck work, which tends to need all the bits that hurt the most. It's worth looking through the 'Basschatters willing/able to help other basschatters' list on the forum - there are some super-talented folksaround here who might be able to help and some might be in your area.

Here are a few shots of @SpondonBassed's Squier Jag soon after it was finished. Whoever thought that natural, unstained wood could be so stunning! : This is a thread that covers the basic method I use, whereas - while the above is natural veneer just with clear varnish - this one below features a stained finish to the veneer. Applying the veneer is identical, though:

I didn't do a thread of actually doing the Squier Jag and actually didn't take progress photos (as I confessed, apparently, in a post in 2011. 2011!!!! That's a mid-teenager's life span ago!!) but I think I can find a thread of the method used if the photo links are still sound. I'll have a look.

Hmmm...not sure. I think so. I'll have a look in the morning.

I'm so out of touch, @Dom in Dorset, I'd missed the progress on your thread. I just LOVE that denim finish - everything splendid, the instrument itself, the finish. Oh and that travel guitar from a post ages back...absolutely stunning!

Great bridge - used it a number of times in the past. Just double check (I think Gotoh have proper dimensioned drawings on their website) that the hole positions match...not to cast doubt on Gotoh as much as my belief that 'there's nothing standard about Fender standard sizes' 😀

...and a very well deserved winner of No Treble's Bass of the Week! Beautiful bass, splendid build

With black stain it should be OK, but always useful to have a backup plan 🙂

Also, with a body, you have to be absolutely sure that you are down to bare wood before you start staining. If it is a previously finished one, it can look like you are down to bare wood but there is often residue of clear original sealers, etc. And no stain will cover those areas evenly. But the same can happen with brand new, unfinished, bodies. The test is to get a damp cloth and wipe it all over. Clean bare wood will soak the moisture in and darken - any residue and the moisture will not soak in and will show up as light patches. If you try to stain this, you will always have a slightly blotchy, uneven colour. Preparing a body for a stained finish is surprisingly hard work!

Looks absolutely splendid

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