Andyjr1515

Very neat way of getting the break angle over the nut maximised. Inspired stuff

Looking pretty good so far

They're on ebay for as little as £26.99 with free postage from China...I wouldn't bother looking for a used one...

^ This...but basically when it's new. It's the sizing that seems to be a bit dodgy but the quality if the metal itself seems OK. So when I took the bad saddles or bolts out of the one you sent me and swopped with the best ones of the second block I bought, you have a set up now, Mick, that should and does work fine

Compared with, say, a Steinberger, the Overlords are crazily cheap - but they aren't great quality-wise. I used one for @TheGreek 's Psilos. I had to buy a second one and make up one good one from the two sets of components. They benefit also from dissassembly, thorough cleaning and re-lubrication. The resulting good one, I think, has held good (Mick?) and Mick also has a few spare bits that I didn't have to bin.

Might have missed it above, but the Squier Jaguar is a great shortscale bass. Looks good, plays great, Vintage Modified less than £200 and £340ish for Classic Vibe. And yes - shortscales are getting more popular in their own right by all types of players. It can transform the way you play in many cases.

This is looking positively splendid, @Pea Turgh

Excellent! Can't wait

Glorious! Best yet...and that's saying something....

Just re-read the guy's query. No - he is wrong. The stamped serial number Ibanez plates were fitted to early models. Yours, you reckon, is 2012? That's hardly an early model. If you look on Amazon at the present offerings you will see back shots of the models with exactly the same plate yours has on it.

Looks right to me. The neck plate is right for that kind of year, the neck carve at the joint has the right curved bits and the right flat bits in the right places. Only thing wrong is the trussrod cover - which you've been clear about.

I agree with @SpondonBassed . I like that very much indeed

That binding is beyond superlatives...

It depends what kind of angle you are looking at but you could always add a full area wedge of ply, maple or similar hardness of wood to the bottom of the otherwise flat heel - either glued or unglued ( it's not going to be able to go anywhere). I worked on a beautiful (and valuable) Wal a couple of years ago and noted that was done like that (glued on in that particular case) so it shouldn't be regarded at all as a 'cheap' fix.

Theoretically, the Fender tilt type results in less contact area than standard shims - especially if the latter are wedged. In reality, though, it would probably make no audible difference providing that in both cases the neck bolts are at the correct tension...

Hi Yes - some images would be helpful. +1 on @DoubleOhStephan 's suggestion too. Heat applied in the right way and in the exact spot can raise dints very well. Have a look on Youtube - there will be a number of videos showing how people do this without leaving marks in the finish. Often, this is all that would be needed. Even if it does need the more extreme measure of sanding down, it is usually best to raise such dints before starting sanding in any case.

Does the bridge dimension fully cover the present Jazz p/up chamber, @Pea Turgh ? Usually, Jazz pickups are wider than mini humbuckers...

Splendid. Excellent result even ignoring it's your first build :)

If it's a commercial poly finish then yes, it will put a fight. There are various ways of speeding it up, but the safest way is using a sanding block and frequent changes of paper. Off and on, it can take a couple of days but you are much less likely to end up with gouges or burns which are always possible with some of the alternative ways.

The bit I don't quite understand, @Olivetti17 , is - if you are considering the cost of prep, paint and finish coat - then isn't sanding back to bear wood, thus removing the aberation, then (restaining if necessary) and recoating in clearcoat going to be just as cost effective? That is, refinish back to its original look rather than overpaint. A quick photo really would help...

You see....that's where people with vision have something I never will have When I first saw it, I was in the 'isn't that a bit big?' camp. Then, when the outer thick ply sections went on, I was in the 'Yes, that really IS too big!' camp. And now it has the covering on, I'm in the 'Wow! That looks SO right!' camp. So no marks for me on my vision capabilities, but I reckon maybe 8/10 for my flexibility of opinion?

There's something a bit special about a fretless bass for certain numbers. Personally, I would have a fretted...but I'd keep and practice with the fretless too. It really doesn't take too long to make the small adjustment in finger positioning and be able to play either. In terms of playing your fretted bass, I'll bet your fingers always hit the same position with the same precision regardless of the presence of the frets...

Hi Just woken up from my slumbers... Somehow, I'd missed this thread - apols. Beautiful bass! I suspect the problem isn't about the action height or the geometry - it's much more down to earth than that. It's about how you cut the frets themselves. And it's about the area once the fretboard gets to the body. Normally, the board would be slotted before being glued to the neck. Generally, this will be: using a fret saw; using a very fine circular saw; using a CNC router Usually, the fret positions would be achieved using a specialist jig or the CNC programming, etc. It is possible to mark by hand and use a mitre block when using a saw, but this can be error prone - even with the ability of handing and clamping just a flat board. The options with a board already glued into a through neck are very limited. You can't use a fret saw; you can't usea circular saw. Theoretically, you could use a CNC router, but how do you jig the bass (and not damage it with the clamps) so that it is EXACTLY in the correct position, accurate in all planes to a hundredth of a millimetre? I used to run a factory of CNC routers and that would have been in the category of 'tell the customer he couldn't afford it' category. So the only practical answer if likely to be to replace the fretboard (and even that isn't easy to do on a finished through-neck bass. Hope this helps Andy I think this is probably where Chris is coming from

Looks great

Haha! Yes, the sound will noticeably improve over the first three months or so of playing as the top loosens up. Some commefcial builders put a multi-frequency vibration plate on the top to accelerate this process.