Andyjr1515

I like that. You could also stick with a headless bridge and just thread the other ends through the headstock with the clamp at the back like on Mick's Psilos.

Yes - lovely. There's a LOT of work going into this....that's a lot of demarcation going on. Looks great for it.

For my little spiel on designing and building lighter weight guitars and basses, I'll be bringing along a 32" screen to show some supporting photos to go with the physical examples I'll have with me. I will have an HDMI cable and an ipad lightning connector to hdmi adapter. Anyone else very welcome to use the screen during the day. If your tablet is android, though, you will need to bring a suitable hdmi adapter for your particular tablet charge plug type.

Lovely job!

Me too

The other way, used in other Bassbashes I've been to are that raffle tickets are sold in the normal way. The last couple I've been to have set £1 a ticket and you can buy as many or as few as you like (or none, of course) and the winner of each ticket gets to choose what's remaining on the table... Easy to administrate and folks can bring along stuff to pop on the table on the day.

Yes - great suggestion.

Is it the Bison with the rotary selector? https://www.google.com/search?q=burns+bison+bass+wiring&oq=burns+bison+bass+wiring&aqs=chrome..69i57j0.14395j0j8&client=tablet-android-asus-tpin&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#imgrc=VVRWhFPO0_yC4M:

Wow!

Axesrus have a decent one for not a lot, here https://www.axesrus.co.uk/Alpha-Concentric-Solid-Shaft-Alpha-Pot-Full-Sized-p/concentricsolidshaftfull.htm

If you want both, then go for vol and tone for each pair of knobs...then you are not having to remember which knob does what. The stacked knobs are basically two standard pots on top of each other so, wiring wise, just use the normal v v t t four pot wiring conventions. The nice thing about this arrangement over using a blend knob is that your present switches work completely normally.

The easiest way would be to swop the Master volume with a stacked pot and have a volume control for each pickup in the same knob position. Same number of holes in the scratchplate and only a few wiring changes. If you keep the pot you take out, you can always revert to standard if you ever come to sell it. The original Squier (passive) Jaguar actually uses stacked pots in both positions giving independant volume and tone for each pickup.

You see, there are many ways of getting over the Basschat system automatic filth-catcher! . Pink torpedoles? History, mate

I'd missed @Jabba_the_gut 's reply above and stand corrected. He doesn't use bigger ones than me. I reckon the total pull power of our respective size/thickness/strength is probably similar, then

No - it is much more effective to use magnets on the cover and an opposite pole magnet in the body. Magnet to magnet these tiny things have a huge pull.

I think @Jabba_the_gut uses bigger magnets than me, but the ones I use are 5mm in the body and 4mm on the cover itself. I use first4magnets who have a massive range of sizes, thicknesses, strengths and shapes. However, note that they are sold also by their pulling power. The 5mm I use are a 0.26kg pull and the 4mm ones are 0.36kg pull. I think for a wood cover this is probably the lowest pull to be sure it's going to hold - so maybe go for slightly larger, and/or stronger ones to be sure. However, you don't really want super high strength ones because the neodymium magnets are really stupendously powerful and too large and strong can affect the magnetic field of your pickups. For the truss rod cover I use 3mm at the apex and 2mm at one or both sides in the body, with 2mm magnets on the cover itself. The single apex magnet is strong enough to hold the weight of the cover so the side smaller ones are just to hold it in position.

Sounds a good idea...

Wow! What a transformation!

Not at all! Trust me, having been in a number of raffles at various bass bashes, the thrill of winning a set of allen keys is just as great as the bigger things! And I'm still using them. All contributions, large or small, I am sure will be gratefully received and excitedly won!

OK - I'll start off the raffle prizes. I will contribute this: A number of you have already seen it at previous bass bashes and - until the website wiped all of the avatars - this was my avatar since joining Basschat, so it's only fitting It's a Squier Jaguar - the original full scale version. Great to play; hmmm...Seymour Duncan 'designed' p/ups - not the most exciting but eminently upgradable; passive electrics; stacked volume tone for each pup; D'addario Chromes; one of my early veneering jobs; remodelled scratchplate covered in automotive-go-faster-carbon-fibre matting; natural sides and back: Andy

I think I'm down to do a talk on the progress towards building lightweight guitars and basses and their respective trials, tribulations, considerations and results. What do you reckon - 20 minutes plus questions? All being well, I will have 2 or 3 examples with me and I think @Len_derby is bringing his Swift Lite along too. Raffle sounds good...I'll have a scout if there's anything I can contribute if everyone else can too Cakewise, not sure our former cake-making wonders are able to come this time round so maybe, those folks who can, bring along some biscuits / bought cakes / buns, etc to stave off the hunger pangs?

I think it's a great project, Marco. I look forwards to seeing the result. It will look stunning with the Thuya...

I don't use templates, Marco, so unfortunately can't help on this one. However - a word of caution. Do bear in mind that there is no consistency whatsoever across the makers of J pickups on the sizes and lug positions - there are even multiple sizes and shapes within the Fender ranges! And for many makers - especially Fender - there are often no dimensions or drawings available on their specs For a J nowadays, I never do ANYTHING with J chambers until I have the pickup in my hand! I then use the actual casing to make my template or - more often - trace round it on the body wood and then Forstner and chisel the initial chamber before using a bearing flush bit in the router to achieve the final depth and flat bottom.

You've definitely got the building bug, Andy! Welcome to the club

Ladies and Gentlemen, I present to you....