Andyjr1515

Life getting in the way of the important stuff again. Next couple of days should see a bit more progress, though. And things have moved on to an extent: The pickup cover has arrived back from Armstrong's complete with pickup! Lovely job This is what I sent to Aaron: And this is what he sent me back: The body will end up lighter than this - this is just the sealing coats I'm currently using to fill voids and fissues (eg the centres of the 'whirlpools') and to show up any missed chisel marks, etc.. I use tru-oil for this bit...but that will be then sanded off and the final finishing will use the RAW version of Osmo oil that keeps the walnut a touch lighter. Tru-oil is great for slurrying and preparing the surface but does add a tint to certain woods, which is why often I use a different product for the final finishing. Nevertheless, the shot shows how the pickup will sit: The eventual colour of the walnut should be pretty close to @scrumpymike 's Rascal. I think that will contrast beautifully with the purpleheart:

Noooooooooooooooooooooo! Make another neck! Make another neck! Make another neck! Prrrrrrretty pleeeeeeeeaaaaassssseeee!

Excellent! Well done

Super job

Don't worry - I haven't gone to ground I've been finalising the body carve - just got one cutaway still to do. When I'm at this stage, I usually do a quick coat of oil - it shows up better the bits I've missed, it starts to fill the voids and I also need to see what colour the purpleheart is going to end up (for reasons explained below) . But also it always looks like sh**e at this stage so I tend not to post photos until I've started applying the finish proper. In the meantime, I'll shortly be starting on the neck. Yes - that's going to be stained. Look at the paragraph above and you may be able to guess what colour...

Oh, my goodness...

I like the colour very much. Nicely done

Watching with interest

If it was me, I would (have in the past) get some standard 0.6mm veneer and cut some strips, just short of the depth of the holes and about 1/3 of the diameter of the stud. I would then, one strip at a time, pop a couple of drops of super glue on the back, pop it in the hole and press it against the sides with something suitably round (biro case of similar). Doesn't need to be an exact fit - the glue is really just to hold it in place. Then pop the next one in opposite so you should have a lining to the holes round 2/3 of the circumference. That gives you a 1.2mm tighter fit which should be more than plenty. Then hammer the stud back in. If you need some suitably bendy veneer (some types bend better than others) just pm me your address and I'll send you a few strips in the post.

Always a bit of relief when all the machine screws match up with the threaded inserts!

Started the carve of the neck/body transition. Still more to do, but this is the sort of thing I'm going for: It already feels nice as you head towards the top frets but I'll probably scoop the carve out a little more. For those of a nervous disposition, by the way, the two dark lines near the neck join are grain lines in the Sapele, not cracks I've changed tack on the skunk stripe lining up with the purpleheart stripe by the way - I've moved to "from the player's point of view, when it's on the strap and he's gazing lovingly down at the back, it lines up nicely" Overall, I think the shape is coming together. The only thing that niggles a bit - and it may look quite different once the two waist relief areas are deepened (this afternoon's job) is that the back to me looks a bit flat? Having said that, it maybe because this is the first non-concave backed build I've done in a while...maybe this is what they're usually like! So, a bit more body carving and the control chamber next on the list of to-dos

Hi As far as I can work out, Stellah appears to have been mainly low-price generic style basses and guitars and low price guitar and bass kits. Reviews, especially of the kits seem to be consistent in terms of well machined woods and, with the kits retailing at not much more than £100, 'decent value for money'. I guess they were of Far East origin. I say 'were' because they don't appear to be trading under that brand any more. Most reviews and references I can see date from around 2010. There are some youtube clips around of both the kit products and the fully finished models. Yours is clearly a modern take on the 'Explorer' models. I think it looks good - I like the subtle change of styling. If it plays well, then enjoy it for what it is.

I started doing the neck fixings but have ordered some different inserts. The first one went in OK but I was a bit bothered that the hex sockets used in the inserts for self cutting the threads as they are inserted were a touch oversize - I don't want one of them getting 7/8ths in and then can't get it fully home or out again! Still, the one I put in is sound enough for me to be able to do a bit of 'air-bass' and be able to start the heel carve of the back of the neck pocket: At the exposed side, the heel will be tapered slightly to meet the back (you can see the 2-3mm overlap in this shot that will be merged) and then rounded towards the bolt recesses and then the front blip (RHS on the above photo) will be slimmed towards the neck.

Love the web site. VERY professional-looking

Somehow missed this update. Looks good!

No - Crown Tools. They are great and weren't crazy expensive

By the way, anyone spot the 'spectre with a mole on its chin spots the Ghostbusters coming down the corridor!'?

Well it's very kind of you to notice

Before cutting the chamber for the controls (they are going to be top mounted on a purpleheart plate), I need to double check how much real-estate they are going to take up. This is @fleabag's requested layout (albeit the other way round): He's also supplied me with the pots and switches. So they will be laid out a bit like this on a purpleheart plate a similar shape to the pickup cover: Should all fit. I also reminded myself of how to do a series/split/parallel with an on/on/on switch: Just got to remind myself WHY it works....

Folks who read my build threads will know that I really, really, really dislike routers. They are OK for deepening and flattening a chamber when used with a guided bearing and completely captive within the chamber...but other than that they are of the devil! So for pickup chambers nowadays, I start with a Forstner: Then straighten up the top 10mm with chisels. Nowadays, by the way, these are pretty much the only chisels I tend to use, both sets bought from Axminster: And then - and only then - use a guided router bit within the chamber to take it to final depth. Note by the way, the appearance of the cable channel I cut before I put the top on:

When I get to shaping the heel, it's useful to already have the screw recesses in place: The carve along the heel line will be radiused to cut into the recesses - if I get it right, they should follow the angle of the machine screw ferrules. I probably will get the neck to a stage of being temporarily fitted before I sort out the carve of the end blip - this one will be more about feel than aesthetics, and you can't really do that until you are in a position to be able to play 'air-bass' with it. Next job is carving the chamber for the pickup cover to fit into (which, incidentally is at this very moment winging its way to Kent for Aaron Armstrong to do his stuff) and carving the controls chamber. While that goes on, I'll carry on reviewing and tweaking the body carve until it's 'right'

Well, having surprised myself making the pickup cover, certainly aren't going to risk it getting crushed in transit to Armstrongs!

Looks good, @Andre_Passini

@fleabag 's idea

Still quite a bit to do - but it's getting there